vugt47

Hey everybody. For those of you that have been following my post I apologize, it's been a long time since my last. Anyways I'm back and have a question.

I would like to alter or remake my exhaust of my 47cc pocket bike motor. It being a 2 stroke engine I was wondering what would happen to the pressure in the engine if I change the muffler slightly. I original plan was to make it way shorter and stick out the side of the vehicle on an angle back. If the pipe does affect the back pressure in the engine could I bend the pipe slightly to the side, like maybe 4-5 inches to the left? The reason is that the rear tire will hit the pipe if it stays where it is.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

If you want a look at how I'm doing here is a link to my video on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGdmIYZCcHY

Lars from Norway

Have you considered cutting it and using a silicone hose so you get to bend it out of the way? Post a link to your thread please

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, you can bend the pipe around to wherever you need it... just dont kink it.

mooman007uk

altering the length can affect performance, most pipes are a compromise but cutting 4-5ins out will change the return pulse timing pretty drastically so you'll either lose a lot of bottom end, revs or both.
i've cut and changed a few tuned pipes to fit other models and always strive to keep the length as original as possible...cutting, rotating and rewelding etc is fine as bends don't have much affect on the exhaust gas as long as theyare smooth with no kinks or sharp angles

vugt47

Thank you for the help. I will have pics up when I have it done.

vugt47

I don't have a thread sorry. I have multiple posts if you want to check out my profile though.

Mudgy

looking at the video, you'll only need to heat/bend or cut/weld the header pipe to get the exhaust to either side.
If you make the whole trike like the first scene, couldn't you run the exhaust tip out the rear guard over the tyre?

lookin good!

vugt47

I could have it go over the rear tire but the suspension will hit it so I was just going to shift it over to the side slightly.

vugt47

What would be the best way to silence the pipe a little more than stock. I've tried putting steel wool in the end around the perforated steel and it seemed to help slightly, but I'd like to make it more quite.

TGNman

So what did you end up with? Pictures?

A lot of things will effect how a pipe performs but with these RC's sometimes you just have to do what you have to do based on your space and pipes that you own to hack up. Try it, it can't hurt is my theory.

As for a silencer, you can make one like it sounds like you did. You can get fiberglass packing at most dirtbike shops, which works better than steel wool etc...

Best of luck and post pictures when you can.

Mark Hull

Dirty_Vinylpusher

What about [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10646631/tm.htm]THIS[/link] one?
And [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10600287/tm.htm]THIS[/link] one....

I think you also started at least two other threads about your carby issues.
Keep it all in the same thread - makes it easier to follow.

Lars from Norway

Yep, as DVP says. I was sure that i have seen a thread or two here about this trike.

vugt47

Ok I will keep the rest of my posts on this thread, I changed the name of this one so it will cover more than just my exhaust problems.


More to come....

vugt47

i finally was able to work on my trike a little for the first time in about 2 months just today. i worked on my front a arms and you can see one of them on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIyDO2zz0qw

also i mention my suspension. i am going to be making the shocks out of the hydraulic hood openers. i need to make the oil filled and i was thinking about using a grease gun and just use the grease instead of oil and make the holes on the piston largers so more can go through. i want to do it this way because then i could just put a grease fitting on the cylinder at the top and not have to make it so i can open the whole shock.

what are your thoughts, if u have a better or smarter way please share with me, im kinda just taking a stab at it.

vugt47

[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

sheograth

That looks really cool.

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

question. wouldn't it be better to have the engine on the same frame member as the back drive wheel. the reason i ask is since the pivot point is aft of the engine won't the tension change on the chain every time the suspension moves causing a breakage or slipping off the sprocket? just wondering. cool project man.

vugt47

That's a good question, I thought the same thing, but I found out that as long as the arm is positioned correctly it will still work. The sprocket coming out of the engine is 2.25 inches above the mount and as long as I have the rear arm attach at 2.25 inches up aswell and the centers stay the same it should stay almost perfect and to assist that I am going to try to make a spinged chain tensioner. I just did not yet weld the rest of the chassis on that holds the back arm.

vugt47

i dont like the style i am making so i think that i will make it more of a full cage style rather than having a main chassis and a removable roll cage. i will not have pics of the actual frame for a while but i will post some of my drawings along the way.

also i have a question for you guys

i no longer want to make my entire suspension, its going to take to long and probably look like ****. So im looking at buying. what are some cheap options? i looked at some for the 47cc quad and im liking those but i am worried that they will be too stiff. what are your thoughts?

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Get some of them and replace the springs with softer ones.

vugt47

i was thinking about that, but are the shocks for them air or oil filled? or do the springs do all the work?

wan6176

oil n spring both better..

vugt47

here is an idea of what the new frame will look like.

[img][/img][img][/img]

vugt47

hey guys, long time no post. i have finally been able to cut out my new throttle servo mount and my steering block with servo saver. now the servo saver is made out of the 3 small brackets and the the long trapezoid like piece. the brackets will later be welded to half inch round tubing with the pivoting arc in the middle like in regular servo savers, of course accompanied by a spring.
If you guys have any questions or concerns please let me know!

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Ah good to see a bit of progress here.
Interesting project.