matthewtet

just finished the drive shaft thing and here are the pictures of it. there still needs to be a hole going through the end that goes onto the diff so a pin can give drive to the wheels also maybe a grub screw to stop the shaft from falling off

matthewtet

now i just need to cut a piece of metal to house the bearing and braze the sprocket onto the shaft. hopefully be done in the next week.

Lars from Norway

Ahh, very nice! I like the work here, and the thinking

matthewtet

Thanks mate, I messed up the longest side because of ignorance but I might clean that bit up with a small chamfer later on. But I'm making progress slowly but surely. Next update should be early next week when I have brazed the sprocket onto the shaft and then maybe later that week when the bearing housing is made.

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Tidy work.
love it

Lars from Norway

If the sprocket isn't hardened you can drill and tap it and put two grub screws through the "neck" of it, and file two flat spots for the grub screws to bite on on the adapter which attatch to the axle on the diff. Then you don't have to solder, and it is easy to change it later if you are going to change the ratio.

And regarding the adapter and how to make it follow the diff axle, drill a hole through it with the same diameter as the width of the slots for the dogbone, put a pin through it and secure the pin by using an O-ring. Make a little slot in the adapter (a half "O" ) in the lathe for the O-ring to stay in so it don't "roll" back or forth making the pin come loose.

Just some late night thinking from Norway how i would have done it

matthewtet

i thought that the "neck" of the shaft was a bit thin for filing it smaller (especially because it is taking power from a 49cc engine) so this is what i was thinking of. the 2 pins are hardened steel split pins which are 3mm is size but are designed to go in 2.5-2.9mm holes. and that is my best shot at making a sprocket so dont judge... hehe

ohh and that is also my quick idea of where to put the breaks. my first shot at them is currently underway.

matthewtet

halfway through getting the brake disk mounted to the "shaft" im going with 2 countersunk bolts and 2 hardened steel pins instead of 4 bolts

polaco1782

Where did you get this from? is this a vorza diff?

Thanks!

Mudgy

Good idea - maybe turn the sprocket around, as the chain could foul on the outer side of the caliper if they are too close together

matthewtet

no it was from a new maverick blackout, some guy took it out of his buggy and was selling it on ebay for some reason.

matthewtet

there isnt enough clearance if i turn the sprocket around as there is going to be a bearing and bearing housing but up against is as there isnt enough room to have a gap, the way it is at the moment there is about 2-3 mm of extra space after the chain. sorry eveyone would have known that if i had posted update pics but i need to get batteries for the camera and i am currently underway with exams. updates will be a little slow for the next month or so.

matthewtet

there has been a little update since the last time i posted but not much. those are the frond brakes off of my bike as i got some new hydraulic disk brakes for it

Lars from Norway

Looks very nice! Have you made sure that the wheels will turn the right way when all is installed?

matthewtet

yeah i checked that when i first started making anything. would be pretty annoying if it didnt

Lars from Norway

It absolutely would! I have seen it here before in a video, i had to remark it and that almost felt a bit rude to do. The car was well built and all was fine, exept from the wheels spinning backwards in a helluva speed

matthewtet

the next thing to be made will probably be a bearing housing for the shaft. but i have to find a bit of steel which is sutable

Mudgy

Lots of steel components will add a heap of weight. Any alloy scrap you can get your hands on?
Cheers, it's looking good mate

matthewtet

where i live there arent any places where i can get alloy and my dad has a tonne of spare steel sitting around the shed. i figured that with hydraulic disc brakes and a larger than normal engine then it would be fine. and yeah i think it is coming along well
but since it is a bit larger than 1/5 scale i am having trouble finding some wheels. any ideas?

Perreault985

Could you provide a few more details, you'd mentioned 1/5 or1/4 scale have you decided yet? Also will this be used on-road or off-road?

C.lyra

Nice build...

matthewtet

i am just going to build it to a size that i like which is about 800-1000cm long and it will be used more offroad on dirt and mud.

matthewtet

thanks, it is going a little slow due to exams and house move but it is moving forwards surely

Dirty_Vinylpusher

Pocket quad wheels not big enough?

Gokart wheels maybe?
the "wet" ones have tread on them which could be made suitable for offroad by cutting some of the knobs off.

Mobility scooters are another option, but they might be a bit heavy.


What sort of diameter are you looking for?

Perreault985

I'm assuming you are building 800-1000mm since I believe 1000cm is about the size of two full sized cars. I'd say this makes the buggy more like 1/4 scale for sure. This scale would put the tires in the 7 to 8 inch (175 - 200mm) range. You might be able to use some of the larger 1/5 scale tires that are available. The pocket quad tires are usually more like 10 inches (254mm) and might be too big. You'll also want to consider the size of your axle and hubs. Your gearbox looks like it will more easily mate up with parts from 1/5 scale parts than go-carts and pocket quads with a 1 inch (25mm) axle.

You may want to also think about your steering servo. Unless you make your own with a wiper motor, most giant scale servos will have trouble turning the quad wheels.