TTurks

Calling all experts!!

Took the MT out for its first run at the weekend - great fun, soooooooo much easier to use than any r/c vehical I've ever owned and also the least toy like

First impressions - It gets dirty very easily (have since ordered the radio plate & rear gear, dirt protectors) with regard to the engine on the side where the pull-start is there are lots of vents which also let dirt in and get clogged up with grass - Is this a problem can you get any cover to prevent this from happening?? Is it easy to take this section off for cleaning or is it best to leave as is with abit of dirt inside?? Now when I pull the start you can kinda hear dried mud inside I have taken the whole car apart for a proper clean - I'd just like to know what others do - these things are obviously most fun off road in the dirt I just can't see myself stripping it down at the end of every run to clean again (3hrs!!), will it do any harm to just brush off when dry and be done with it?? So first questions really are how do others takle cleaning etc..?

Handling - one word at the mo CRAP it understeers badley - with the shocks in bits it is still hard to compress - the oil must be 1,000,000 weight!! Not quite sure what to do with them - any idea's??? I was think of changing the oil weight drastically, obviously remove the spacers etc - Also I was considering only refilling one of the shocks per wheel back up with oil or would that make the one without too springy?? Any further help with handling would be greatly appreciated - weights on the front maybe LOL

Cheeers in advance TT

No Moa

My Feedback: (1)

I think you are the first person to run one, other than the dist guys, show some dirt pics, we need to see um!!!!!!

ammdrew

run a tank or two through I would expect the suspension to loosen a bit, I then may remove a spring from each corner but probably not the shock oil..

reckless driver

Take a look at this website. Some great info used on a Leopard that can be used for any FG off-road.

http://www.leopard.britspeed.cz/

quarterscalelegends

DO NOT cover the vents on the side of the pull start. Thats what helps cool the engine. To clean the truck, remove the battery and reciever box. Spray with Simple green and hose off! After that use an air compressor or leaf blower to dry it off. It will clean it very nice and shine up the aluminum, unless its polished then it may fade it. Make sure you dry it off VERY good and dont leave water anywhere. Also take care near the servos not to drench them too bad. If you have good ones you will have no problems. I have been doing this process to clean my large scale cars for years with no problems, works great and only takes 10 minutes start to finish!!!

dazzahughesuk

Just had a quick looks and look like a great site.

dubby

Some good looking tips on there.

Gonna give the pullstart mod a go I think.

Not so sure about the diff mod though. I was advised not to put a gear cover on to allow anything that gets in the gears to be able to get back out again. Same with the diff I reckon.

ibstar

i wouldn't bother with the pull start cover not alot to get damaged it there
i have added the gear cover if its standard on race versions then it must do some good there is space at rear to chuck anything out
i was also advised to not cover the diff as trapped stones can't get out
and have had to remove a couple and having to carry tools to get it out sort of defetes the object of going petrol

TTurks

Thanks guy's for all the help so useful stuff to go through there - as for the gear cover I brought one home today and well.......it doesn't fit, main gear to large I think one spin once the cover's in place

Got some 50 weight oil coming tomorrow apparently they are shipped with 100 weight so we shall see!!

pehter aka ibbe

Perhaps not damage but to keep out debris from the cooling fines on the cylinderhead. I riped my MB apart this weeck to do a deep clean and it was alot stuff inside of the covers.

voo2doo

Heres another one for ya Turk. To stop all the crap gettin in/on ya shocks and to stop sand and grit from cratching the piston rods,get a long balloon (not the round ones)put all the shock into it so that theres no shock exposed,then elastic band the top and the bottom and trim the exess off.You should just see the mounting holes.
Good luck
Vo0[&:]

Xeron

Just wondering If we can clear something up, What oil comes with the MT? TTturks says it came with 100w and hes going to be putting 50 but from another post on here titled "shock oil" the MB has 2000w oil? is it that the MB and the MT are very different in the shock oil... or is someone wrong?

ammdrew

they should be shipping with the same weight, I just poured one out and it is not 100 wt, 2000, 3000, or 4000 would be a possability but way to thick for 100, but of course that is a very unscientific evaluation.

Most FG models ship with a 2000 wt, I would assume the same for the Monster Truck.

Xeron

Surely theres a huge difference from 2000w and 100? And then putting 50 in?

TTurks

I think there is a difference here in the Oil Weight terminology being used - Uk dealers have been speaking to me and refering to it as 20w, 40w, 50w, 55w etc etc - Where as others have been saying 1000w & 2000w. However in some threds & on some sites you see it labelled up as 40/400, 55/550.100/1000 etc etc So yes maybe my truck was shipped with 200/2000w - However all I know now is that the shocks have 50w in them, which to me is soft enough (handles well and the shocks won't bottom out), now whether thats 50w, 500w or 50/500w remains to be seen....

The only other thing I may do is remove the rear anti roll bar!!

Xeron

Yeh that makes alot of sense, people referring to weights in a different way, as i cant see in the sense of putting 50w oil in and it coming with 2000 in the same kind of scale? thats quite an adjustment.. but 50 from 200 seems more... likely

TTurks

Yeah I totally agree & comparing the thickness of the oils side-by-side - I'd say my new 50w could easily be a 1/4 as thick as the original stuff