zafiragsi

Hi all you paint fellows
Tell me firstly what type of paint are you using to paint the abs Marder shell and secondly do you scuff the body up a little to give the paint something to key on to. I am thinking of a bit of a radical paint job and dont want to cock it up.

Thanks for any advice


Ade[>:][>:]

Lee G

There is a magical depainter for clearing bad spray jobs up.
And the magic liquid is called

NITRO

Yep, I have found useing nitro is the dogs danglies for geting rid of unwated paint runs etc and it dont kill the lexan body shells.
I use what ever spray they have in a model shop that will go through my airbrush, just spray iit on without to much elbow grase prepareing the shell if you spraying the inside.

Lee

addzRC.Maniac

i use any aerosol spray can that i find

RCholic

What's worked for me is, I give a lite polish (with steel wool) to take the shine off, blow off, wipe down with a cleaner to remove any oils and mask off to your design.
I personally find ABS easier to paint than lexan.
My Hummer body, which I took such pains to paint, IS peels away in all the tight corners of the body (almost seems like it happening from the flexing of the body... [&o]
WILL have to try this "Nitro" trick though...

Jared1106

I have never scuffed up any body, and have been told by the experts that it is not nessicary. Just clean it with warm soapy water to remove any MFG oils from the mold. I have never had paint chip off, even with some major bashing!!! Though scuffing it cant hurt, but depending on the type and color of paint and the depth of the scuffing it could show thru the body..

arjwhite

Don`t no if youv`e ever come across plasti-kote before?.The first marder shell i painted was with aerosol enamel from the local model shop which seamed quite durable,but the second shell was painted with plasti-kote primer,metallic top cote,and finished with clear lacquer and up till now the plasti-kote seams just as durable if not better.It comes in aerosol cans from diy/hobby stores and costs considerably less than the model shop enamel.Also comes in a variety of colors including dayglows and metallics.Still gave the body a light rub over with 800 grit wet/dry before and after priming,(old habits die hard).P.s jarred,the marder shell comes in white A.B.S not clear polycarbonate so it has to be painted from the outside.

dubby

You must key up the plastic first on the ABS shell other wise it will flake( 800w/d and a grey scotchbrite for the hard to get to places). You must also use a good plastic primer as well.

Plasticote is excellent stuff and aandys recomendation is spot on.

Seeing as Im a vehicle painter I borrow paint fom work but any rattle can will do it so long as its keyed and propperly primed if you are on a low budget But if you can afford it then follow andys advise and use platicote.

Lee

p.s dont key up lexan shells as seeing as you paint from the inside you will pretty much always be able to see the scratches.

dubby

These two took me about 2 1/2 hours each to do start to finish.

One day ill get some patience and take my time over one.

arjwhite

Patience or not thats still two excellent paint jobs.Well impressed.Yes the one thing i really liked about the plasti-kote is the very quick drying time.Sprayed one day, out playing the next.Patience is one thing i severly lack.

cobrasnake302

I do body work and paint on real cars and what I would recommend for this would be to scuff up the body with 800 wetsand paper or a 3m tan or gray scuff pad with water or dry, then fully clean it, then spray an adhesion promotor, Dupont 222s or bulldog or other brands, then auto basecoat and urathane clear coat with a little flex agent. It may chip or peel during a very hard crash, but should be pretty strong. Scuffing it up alot will help the paint to "bite" or stick better, and I normally use many light coats of base instead of wet coats, as most base coats are supposed to dull out when dry and then a light-medium first clear coat, then let it dry for a few minutes then put the final heavy gloss coat of clear. Any paint brands like DuPont, PPG, Sherwin williams, etc, would work great. House of Kolors also has some really nice custom paints like kandy coats or chemeleons. Using a hair dryer to help the paint dry quicker works great too. You will need to let it sit for at least a day before you put the body on so it's nice and dry. I am about to spray my Firehammer with a custom kandy/chemeleon paint job, and may add a few small decals to it after the basecoat then clear over them. I'll try to post pics when I'm done.