paul_c

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys. I've been reading posts, but I'd like some opinions. First off, great forum. I have a few years of rc plane experience, but I'd like to get into cars. I'm leaning towards off-road over on-road (mainly for versatility of surfaces). I know I want giant scale. I know I want gas (as I've had a gas plane with Zenoah). My main question is: Is there a giant scale, gas powered off-road truck/buggy/rally car that I can get as a RTR kit? My main concern is, I know how many hours I put into learning to fly and build planes. If I had to put that many hours into another hobby (i.e. cars), I'm dead, since I'm opening a new business, I road race cars in the summer, etc etc. And I'm not sure how many RC car clubs there are in the area (as compared to plane clubs). I'm willing to dedicate time, but I need RTR and the help of this forum. Can it be done? Best model(s)? Thanks!

geniusgene

you bet, most if not all FG modelsport kits are RTR. They require installation of electronics and painting of the body. A few hrs work at best.

http://www.vsmodelsport.com/home.html

MJT

The cars from FG Modellsport is the solution for you.
They produce gas-powered (use the Zenoah engines) cars in 1:5 - onroads and 1:6 - offroads.
I can recommned their offroad cars - I have an 1:6 Monster Beetle which is powered by a 26ccm Zenoah engine which has an output of 3.9 HP.
Their offroad productline consists of the Marder, Beetle, Pajero, Monster Beetle and Monstertruck. They all have the same engine, chassis etc. but the body differs from model to model and the Monster Truck has a different suspension etc. The FG cars are made of high quality components and can deal with a serious amount of crazy bashing before they surrender to the New-Parts-Shop

Its your own choice, but I will recommned the Monster versions of the offroaders - they are better to handle the offroad environment because of the big wheels. All the cars can be delivered to you as an RTR version.

Here is my Monster Beetle:


And my brothers Monster Truck:


I hope your can use this information.

paul_c

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks guys; I'm leaning towards the FG MT. I'm not really into high-flying manuevers/racing, but more into the realism. Gas sounds and smells better than nitro, and the bigger the better (again, I don't intend on big jumps)

rhylsadar

hi
coming from rc planes you know how important it is not to loose control over your model. your are familiar with pulse code modulations etc. probably you have very good radios. i would not recommend to go with a rtr but rather buy the car and the electronics separat. either you use one of your pcm radios you already have or go with a 3channel car radio like futaba T3PK. that would be much safer in my view.
and also be aware that there are some modifications (like alu diff, alu gear carrier, steel pinion and maybe better brake) that should be made on the fg mt to have real fun in the long run.
rhylsadar

original.mb

paul c

good choice my friend please keep us updated when you get one, thanks

geniusgene

you will love the FG MT, I know because I just got one myself.

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

I am new to this giant scale also-came over from 8th and 10th scale, and I have been lurking around in here reading all sorts of material for months now. I hope that it does not seem like I am stepping on any toes or that I am negative toward 1/6th scale in any way, but there are a few things that I would like to point out before you jump in:

Obviously these cars and trucks are better than any nitro vehicle at any level...they are much less touchy (and I think most of these guys are in it for the size factor). They are also very expensive, in my opinion. Not only do you have the cost of the vehicle itself, but you also have to buy an FM radio, a metal 10th scale servo, a 1/4 scale servo, a failsafe, a 5-cell battery pack + charger, lexan body paint, fuel etc. (and those things are just going to get you started). Soon, you will realize that you need to upgrade several parts in order to get your monster off road again. Replacement/upgrade parts are many and all seem necessary as well. You can plan to buy a better air filter, a steel pinion gear, an alloy gear carrier, plastic gear and electronics cover, and a better differential tube. Before you know it, those dog-bone style drive shafts are worn out from all of the torque of the motor and you will want to replace them with good ball drives. Alloy parts come next, as you find that you are wearing out the plastic parts and need more durability. Then, you will be tempted by the high performance exhaust pipes that boost motor output or a two-speed transmission for extra low and high end speed.
I know all of this because of my extensive investigation of this scale, and I have ordered all of these parts (except the pipe and trani...and I am tempted).
Since you are not new to hobby-grade 'toys', you may have several of these items and might already plan to spend a good deal of money on your vehicle. Since you do not plan to do a lot of heavy bashing on jumps etc., you may not need all of the upgrade and replacement parts, any way.
Sorry! Didn't mean to rant. I know that loving a hobby of this caliber means putting in time and money, and most people enjoy that. Me, I just want to crank it up and drive (I've never been one for demanding relationships).
I am waiting for the ultimate machine! One that already has all of the up-graded, tough, and high performance parts. But, since selling parts is a high dollar business, that is just a dream...[&o]
There will probably be a great deal of people who read this and want to attack my comments, but everything that I have stated here is my strong opinion. OPINION.
By the way, buy the Monster Beetle...the Monster truck is too stiff and bouncy.

MJT

icecreamslick -

You are right in some of your statemens in your post.
The giant scale is expensive compared to smaller scale - its obvious. But compared to airplanes and helicopters its the same, or cheaper so its not like !QUOT!incredible expensive and overkill!QUOT!.
The FG is made of very high quality parts, and they just keep on going an going - as long as you don't bash into a wall, tree or drop it from 30 ft.
Its true that you can add better parts, tune pipe etc. which I also have invested in - but that just for the fun of it, not needed. I have a tunepipe - not because the Zenoah 26ccm engine is weak, but because I want the extra power, the sound and the looks - I just think its great that all these better parts, tuneparts etc. are available.

Its true that these cars are better than nitro in any ways. Normal gasoline, one pull and away it is - doesn't matter if the weather is cold or hot, the engine temperaturs are not important etc. etc. Its a win win case compared to nitro.

You say that you are waiting for the ultimate machine - this is almost available. The Lauterbacher has mad a FG MT with all ALU parts, tune engine etc. Its nice - but it is over-kill expensive, so upgrade-parts-yourself method is cheaper I guess.

Anyway - I like my MB, and haven't regret 1 Euro of the money I have spent on this vehicle so far - it just rocks.

Just my 2 cents.

ricok

I had to choose between the MB or the MT. At the end of the day I've decided to go for the Monster Truck. My order is currently being processed in Germany. The looks of the MT is just outragious! I really dig it. I know the MT's handling is not very nice, but I've decided to take the advice on this forum and try to sort it out. I'm sure I'll get the handling right. Hopefully I'll be a proud MT owner in about 2 weeks time!

geniusgene

dont let the stock MT handeling bother you at all. W/ a little shock work and some tuning, it transforms into a very capable performer.

dubby

Ive driven all of the FG marder derivatives and I think the MB is the best value for money by far.

It even survives my driving style

The MT is good but even with different shock oil its still a bouncy ride and doesnt want to corner very well. Also the shell is VERY easy to break.

The MB however seems just right out of the box and in my experiance takes one hell of a beating before it thinks about breaking.

Just my opinion!

Lee

geniusgene

I have to disagree you buddy. My MT is as soft as a pillow, no bounce and no wheelies. It just eats up terrain like a freak. I'll get a vid of it, you will be suprised. The only problem is the diff, it unloads way to easy.

MJT

I would say, having a MB, that the MT after oil shock change, removing the anti-rollover bar-thing in the back of the car etc. are nearly as good as the MB in handling. So its a taste-and-look situation.

I though think the MB can take a lot more crazy bashing then the MT, because of the body's form - when rolling over it always tips back on the wheels, and the body form can also take a lot of energy, so instead of cracking, it just bends and you can continue your driving after a crash/rollover.

MJT

geniusgene:

Buy the Differential Grease with part number: 6512 which are very thick. Remove the standard grease in your differential, clean and fill it up with the diff grease. The differential will lock almost 100%. I and those I know with FG's have done so on their offroad and it simply amazing. Your MT/MB feels like it has gained 3 more HP and both wheels are spinning - there is only one way - and thats forward!

The grease costs like 8-9 $ so its very cheap.

geniusgene

MJT,
I have to agree w/ 90% of what you said, and the remaining 10% could be that I've only had this machine for 2 weeks. That said, do you think that the extra side chassis plates and the braces that join the center roll bar to the front shock tower help in durability. I understand the MB does not have them. That should even the playing field a little.
About the diff lock grease. I've heard it works, even though I can't bieleve it. I'm going to get some anyway but I cant get the freakin diff apart. I't out of the truck, in my hand, ring unbolted, rear retaining screw out and I cant get it apart. Whats the trick?

original.mb

geniegene

dubby is 100 percent correct trust me i have an MB? not to say the suspension issues on an mt can't bee addressed of course they can its just that out of the box the mb is a dream but the mt does need a few bits of tinkering to match the versatile mb.

MJT

geniusgene:

The MT has a more stiff chassis because of the ALU side plates and the 2 ALU sticks. I think this is a good thing to have - the new Monster Beetle Pro is also based at the MT chassis, because of the advantages.

The lock grease WORKS definitely!
It is a thick substance which, when being pulled apart by the gears in the diff, makes threads which means its getting harder and harder the more the diff pulls - the faster the wheels spins (cus your truck is stranded on a rock or something), the harder the grease gets - this means that the wheel standing on the ground being activated and the MT gets free of the rock (all this happens in a split of a second of course).
I have driven alot in the snow which we have alot of in Denmark, and my MB just keep going - before w/o the grease, it couldn't move an inch because of the wheels just spinning stupid.

The diff is pretty hard to take a part. I had to cut my standard diff tube open, brake it apart and pull it of the diff housing. It didn't matter, cus I also had a reinfored tube, but for those who wants to keep their standard tube its getting real tricky.
Its even more tricky if the tube has markings after rocks etc. because the tube is out of form and pretty much impossible to get off.

When you say *ring unbolted* to you mean the big gear? The big gear must stay on, otherwise you wont have anything to take a grab on. I do not interfere with the tube or diff housing.

You can easily pull very hard - it wont brake.

original.mb

mb pro is based on the mt, which basically means you get 4 more shocks, 2 alloy side curtains and everything else is identical but because u get more shocks that increases the stiffness which makes for the bouncyness that people seem to complain about. my mb has only 2 shocks thus making the front-end alot lower which makes for better handling and you can throw it round in dough-nuts for the fun of it without it tipping.

geniusgene

got it, thanx guys.

34Ford

My Feedback: (2)

Well Im finally going to step in and say I love my[b] Firehammer[\b]. I finally have a big enough model to run thru the yard and rip the grass up.

rhylsadar

hi
as there is no problem to put an mb shell on the mt i don't see the point there.
what should be considered though is that out of the box the front wishbones of the mb are easier to brake than those of the mt. the stiffness is no point either. putting only four shocks an the mt is an easy job. i don't really see a thing that should be seriously seen as "better" or "worse" in those two models. not really surprising as they are all the same right! [8D] to change from mb to mt or reverse....no big deal.
rhylsadar

MJT

How would you ever fit a MB shell on a MT chassis? The MT shell is longer than the MB shell, meaning that the 2 rear sticks holding the bed on the MT, is on the MB where the spoiler is attached. The 2 rear sticks on the MB body does not exist on the MT, so its a funny match?

And by the way, removing 4 of the shocks is a cheap and silly solution. The 4 remaing shocks will STILL be hard as h*ll - the only god and correct solution is to replace the existing oil in all 8 shocks. This way the MT will achieve a very succesfull handling, as good as the MB which from standard has soft shocs. The amount of shocks is not the problem. Maybe driven with 4 shocks on the MT is better than 8, when they are all hard, but 8 soft is much better than 4 hard.

rhylsadar

hi
well those two sticks on the rear don't pose a problem at all. and for the shocks... are you so sure that the mt doesn't just have 8 mb rear shocks....i am not. but whatever. those are details as there are solutions to make the shocks work properly like you said.
rhylsadar

MJT

I know you can just screw the sticks on - but it requires that you have the sticks, which MT owners doesnt.

As for the shocks, i doubt they are the same. On my MB the shocks are going back to start position in a split second after they have been pushed together - as for the standard MT shocks, they move very slow due to the thick oil. Maybe they are the same, but as said before the right and best solution is to change the oil.

But of course, all problems can bee solved.