Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, well, since my digital camera died yesterday I decided I'll post the pics I have from CAD as an update to my progress. I actually have the front wheels mounted also, but have yet to figure out how to make ball-joints in Inventor (which is what i am using to design this), so.......they won't be in the pics. Anyway, all that is missing from the pics is the front hubs, wheels, and steering linkages. My next goal is to have the front, center and rear diffs mounted by the end of next week.

I am going to call it "Titan SD". SD stand for Super Duty. Seems fitting due to the engine I am using, 49cc pocket bike engine, which I recently found out was upgraded with a new head and piston to put out 5hp. Woohoo, can't wait.

freddyg

how is this project coming? i saw your post about using impact universals as u-joints, i've done something similar for one of my trucks.
i just wondered how things were coming?

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

well........not so good right yet. I was able to put the u-joints into Inventor and try them out....and well, they seem a bit longer than I was hoping, that and my diffs are a bit wide too, so I am not sure how well everything will line up. I am worried about binding up the shaft. Anyway, as I type this I am going to spend some time in Inventor playing around with things and see what i can come up with. Any tips would be appreciated if you successfully did this type of setup.

freddyg

well i used 1/2 inch universals and made and axle that serves the same function as the part you posted in your other thread, i just used a piece of 1/2 inch shaft with a couple of beads welded and shaped to a square on the end to fit the female of the universal. i also used 9/16 sockets between the u joints along with a 9/16 hex wrench cut to length for a drive shaft/slider, the inside ujoint was connected to a wheel chair motor that i had machined to a square output. i dont know if that helps any, i might be able to dig up some pics, might with an emphasis, if you want to see them.
fred

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

Don't worry about the pics. I actually had thought of using the hex wrench idea, still might. My computer started dyin on me when i was trying to figure out the space issue. Seems it doesn't like drawing 563 high res parts in Inventor. If I can get it back running, I will keep you posted on what I am going to do, but so far so good, looks like the diff by pure luck, is a perfect fit into my frame.

freddyg

so i take it i didnt really help you out? sorry. would still like to see what you come up with
what diff are you using? if i might ask?

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, maybe you could post the pics, any, even if you have to retake them.......I am hurting myself trying to figure out how to attach the u-joints to the diff shafts without welding. I kind of backed myself into a corner because of how things fit, but I still think it can be done......just need to rest my brain a bit.

But to answer your question I am using small go-cart diffs. They are 3" diameter and strong. Problem is, they are a bit wide and I am trying to get everything to fit just right so nothing binds. It fits inside my frame, I just ran out of places to put mount brackets.

mbba2002

My Feedback: (10)

These are the types of problems you will keep running into if you continue to use Go Kart parts. You said to me you were going to use 25 pitch chain. Now you switched to 35 or 41 pitch chain??( OK for the diffs) if that's what you want to use but you now see the problem. You can make one with 25 pitch chain that will fit in your space if you want?? I would just eliminate the rear diff all together. U-joints are easy if you buy them and modify to fit your application. If you want a hummer body ? The hummer 1/5 body (by MCD) is 660 MM long the biggest made. So now you have another new sizes restriction ?? It's not easy to build a large scale truck but if you find someone with experience it is allot easier and use standard parts the pieces will fit together better.

The only parts you should use off Go Karts is the tires and rims.

freddyg

here's some pics, but they arent mounted on the truck so i dont know how much they'll help, i also am using this setup on a current project, adapted directly to a round shaft, but that took quite a bit of work as far as taking the temper out of the joint so i could tap for a setscrew, as well as filling in the square drive and drilling it for a round shaft. this setup doesnt have much room for dynamic length changes because the sockets are't very deep, but i got lucky with my geometry and didnt need much. luckily i have a welder and some other tools that make some of this easier, but not everyone is that lucky. which sucks, because i bet we would see a lot more innovative designs if the tools were more readily available.

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

First off.....I am still using #25 chain. I can order a #25 sprocket and machine a new mount hole very easily. Second, I chose these diffs because I knew the housing itself would fit prefect into my frame, and the only thing I had to worry about is how easily the shafts would be able to be adapted to my use. I have figured out the diff side of the driveshafts, now I just need to find a way to hook them to the wheel hub. Also, as far as the body is concerned......why buy it when I can make it. This way size is no issue. I have the tools needed to bend and form lexan into just about any shape. I picked the Hummer design because one, I have always wanted a classic H1 style Hummer, and two, it's a bit easier to shape that body since I am new at this. Have more faith in people, I've overcome every challenge I have met in this project, and have yet to deviate from what I want this thing to be. I figured out 4 wheel drive with 4 wheel independent suspension, something most trucks lack. I can do it, and I will do it right. It's what i said from the beginning, and I am not giving up. Here is an updated pic of the rear drive section with the diff, give you an idea of how nicely it will work. I designed everything so it will be easy to make and easy to install.

freddyg

it looks good to me i was wondering, what method did you use to attach the universal to the diff? and can it be used to attach to the axle?
it looks like you used the male end of the universal to attach to the diff, is that the current configuration?
as for attachment to the axle, if you're using 1/2 inch axles and 3/8 universals, you could easily file or dremel a square on the end of the shaft to engage the universal, and using the universal itself as the retaining lip of the axle (which you have in your axle drawing), it would just require fixing the universal solidly. ......uh oh, i just realized something, you're using standard ratchet universals according to the drawing, is that right? if so you may run into more problems than i had, because the pivots of the 2 halves aren't aligned. i guess you'll just have to try it and see. from the looks of it, your costs wouldnt increase that much if you had to buy ball type impact universals (i've seen them for about 8 bucks each) although i would like to hear how the universals you have work. now that i think of it, that may be why i didnt have much problem with the length of my sliders, because the universals i have are spring loaded and slide nearly 1/4 inch themselves.

the hummer body is perfect for forming out of lexan with its square corners, are you using cold bending or heat wire to form the lexan?
ok i just talked alot and asked alot of questions, so i'll go now

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

No problem, talk all you want. Ok, let me see if I can show you how I attached the u-joint to the diff. And thats leads to answer the first question.....no I can't use the same method because I have no way of keeping the axle from sliding out. I don't want to weld ANYTHING if I can help it. That way I can replace parts easily. Ok, so, see Fig A as a reference to attaching the u-joints.

Next.....the axles. It was weird, I racked my brain all last night trying to figure this out, and then i woke up, and what do ya know, I had it figured out. I am sticking with my original plan, and custom making the axles. See Fig B for more info.

And last........the sliders. Well, according to Inventor, it works so beautifully I couldn't dream of anything better. I had to redesign my original axle so that the female end of the u-joint actually sits inside the axle itself, held in place with a pair of set-screws. But, all in all, it's a work of art, now I just have to make the parts.

freddyg

looking good man, i see you're using bronze bushings, glad to know i'm not the only one i'm constructing some solid axles using bushings.
i do have one concern in your design, thats in the hub, how long is your bushing. and is it long enough to support the forces on the axle?
so, are you set up with machine tools? or are you having someone do some machining for you?
btw love the square slider idea.

Soloratov

My Feedback: (1)

The hub mount is 1/2 inch aluminum, and the bushing/bearing is 3/4 inch long. I have the wheels test mounted to make sure all the suspension motion is correct, and the wheels don't move at all. The setup seems to be quite strong, and I think it will take quite a beating. The axles in all are only going to be about 3 inches long, with only 2 1/4 hanging out for the wheel so there shouldn't be any issues.....but we'll see.

To answer the question, yes, I have made everything, well, except for obvious things like the diff, and things like that, but the a-arms, stabilizers, all the mounts and frame are my work. I work in a machine shop, so everything is at my disposal. My second attempt at a-arms is much better than my first, and thats what I have shown in the pics. Just took a little negotiating on the mill to get an triangular shape.

mbba2002

My Feedback: (10)

Bushings are junk to use in place of bearings. You can get bearings $ 2 each and eliminate the problems now. Bushings wear oval and will cause more damage later. I see your make shift style u-joints look to be past the maximum deflection angle to transmit the maximum torque rating. This will cause deflection on the bushings causing them to wear faster and need replacement. Bearings have a higher deflection load and are smoother.