avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

Hey guys and gals...our no tax sale at the LHS is comming up so I put together my list of things to buy (ever since everyone got me hooked 4 or so months ago ) So here it is and I was hoping that you all could give me some last minute pointers as to what is a good idea and what isn't worth it keeping in mind that the MB will spend most of it's time bashing here in Fresno and at Pismo Beach in the Dunes.

06004: Monster Beetle
06048: 48T Steel "Spur"
06431: 16T Steel "Pinion"
01981: Pre-Filter
06233: Foam Tire inserts
06082: Gear Cover
06065: Diff. Cover
06539: Rain/Dirt Cover
6050ST: Alloy Spur Adapter
35745s: 1/4 Hitec Servo
Failsafe

a_vdk

You may also wat to get some rear upper alloy arms and alloy uprights. I would guess you already have a radio system just do not forget the failsafe You will also want to change the shock oil to like 50 front / 80 rear.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

Yeah, I already have a radio (XS3-Pro w/ RS310 3ch. Reciever) I'll have to check into changing the oil in the shocks after I get through "break-in" and see how it handles with my setup. Failsafe is something I forgot though so I'll add it on.

Also something I was wondering is how many cans of spray paint does it take to put a few coats down on the body? I don't plan on doing anything elaborate; just clean lines and nice even coats with a few cool decals to top it off but how many cans does it take to do those huge bodies?

a_vdk

2 cans of paint for the base coat and 1 can as a backer. Also I noticed that you do not have a standard servo on your list for throttle/brake unless you already have one.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

I have the steering servo out of my Gorilla Maxx project that I parted out to pay for this that i was planning on using for that. Since it's digital and metal geared I figured it was more than adequate for the job.

Mad Wax

Steel gears for both small/large is a no-no, if something lodges in the gears instead of shearing the teeth off (if one is plastic) your engine will suddenly jam. Goodbye engine.

IMO definetly use two servos for steering, or if using one get a REALLY good one. I use two hitec 705's and far better than Multiplex higher end single servo- dual servo is faster, more torque, less strain on the servo. Just push the servo saver and you'll get a idea just how much power is needed. The single servo can just about do a full L-R turn whilst car is at a stop (but lots of strain) dual servos no problem.

Buy a LED checker, leave that connected. So when you switch it on and use it you can instantly see battery level, also quickly check as it passes near by as well.

The diff cover should come with it (do you mean the triangle thing under the chassis, or like a rear guard?) I made one from 1mm aluminium, just and fit over the opened diff area and screw.

Would appreciate tips on spraying too, FG Leopard, bought two cans of Tamiya red. Do I need to do a final clear lacquer/protector coat or something?

hpiguy

I used 1 1/2 cans of paint to do a good coat of Metallic Black. No backer. It's not transparent and looks great with the blue, white lightning bolts.

Defintely get a Voltwatch 2. The LED receiver battery monitor. Used with a failsafe makes for ALMOST guaranteeing no runaways.

I use a 1/4 scale steering servo and do not have one problem. Turns the wheels lock to lock sitting still. Not recommended as it puts lot of stress on the parts but it can do it. It's a KO Propo Digital 333 oz/in.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

The diff cover I assumed was for the rear but now that you say that it may just be the stock plate underneath, I couldn't find a picture but its part #06065 and its like $7.00 USD so if someone has a picture or if someone knows which cover it is please let me know.

So should I go metal on large or small. I was thinking small since it is cheaper and doesn't require an adapter but let me know what you do and if you think it'll hold up in the sand. For the time being I think that I'll stick with the single servo and in the future if I feel the need I'll get a second one and add it in.

Thanks for the help guys and please if someone knows about that diff cover (06065) let me know because otherwise I'll pick up some material and make my own to cover the rear.

Mad Wax

lol the local hobby store said need at least 5 cans for spraying 1:6 car. Dodgy mother, trying to con me and sell more than is needed. [:@]

As for the LED checker, connect it to a unused channel (3, 4ch whatever) Place the fail safe in between the RX and throttle/brake servo. Adjust it with the TX off, if you twiddle the little control it'll move the throttle servo. Set it to where the brake kicks in. I've just fitted a fail safe. In my other car I've had a few drop outs, luckily no damage...one time in a big field going away from me- steering not affecting the car. oops. Managed to run after it and must have received a signal (TX battery went flat suddenly) another time went into the hedge.

Those LED checkers are usually set at 4.8v, so make sure you flick the switch.

A waterproof switch is a worthwhile purchase, all of my three cars with the standard futuba switch gunked up (pretty open) and intermittent when you switch to on (sometimes servos not shown powered up)

Shock socks will prevent grit going onto the springs/rod..so help reduce seal wear and shock scratches.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

Those all sound like worth while investments except for the waterproof switch, why don't you just get #06539 which is the rain/dirt cover and that will keep everything safe from moisture if you seal it properly. That's my plan to keep sand out while at the beach.

Also, I found a picture of what I was trying to explain....(it's jimbo's truck )



The diff. gear that sticks out in the rear. Is #06065 a cover for that or what?

Mad Wax

If you fit a switch under the poly cover it means taking it off just to switch it on/off. You could still have the poly cover, but have a waterproof switch to one side. So you never need to take the cover off. I mounted y waterproof switch on the body clip of the battery holder.

I'm pretty sure 6065 is the triangle cover on the bottom of the chassis.

Pic of my DIY diff back cover. Simple to make cheap and works.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks MadMax...I am positive your right about the cover...check out this link though, it's a good idea where he cuts the top open and uses the top of a soda bottle to make a water tight access hole that doesn't require taking the cover off.

[link=http://www.molzermoweryracing.com/sasranddoffroad.htm]Cover Mod[/link]

scroll down to "Off-Road Radio Tray Cover"

Mad Wax

It's Mad Wax!
Checkout [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3050901/tm.htm]THIS[/link] thread with my pic of tubing cover. Should stop tubing from melting.

btw I've never needed to cover the servo, this is a Marder (quite open) Since the MB is further enclosed I shouldn't see a problem. See if the area gets mucky first. Although since you're running in the sand it'll probably need a clean up every day anyway (sand gets everywhere) I don't think a cover will do much, it'll still get in.

avery4jc

My Feedback: (10)

That's true, I blow the trucks off with a compressor after every run at the beach and the cover would probably just make it harder to clean (or at least more time consuming)...I'll have to see how it goes.