icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

I stripped another spur gear, today. [:@] I know that I can solve the problem by replacing the upper rear suspension arm with the aluminum version. That will stop it from moving forward when I come down hard on the rear tire and hitting my gear blah, blah, blah...I know this. What I want to know is if I replace the plastic gear with steel, do I really run the risk of ruining some expensive part of my MB?
I want someone who has first hand knowledge, meaning that it has happened to you, that I really am much more likely to break something else if I eliminate the cheap-to-fix "weak spot".
The reason that I ask is that I have a Kysosho Inferno with all steal gears and I have beat the $h!t out of it with no negative repercussions at all...in fact, it seems bullet-proof!
(Sometimes when a person reads someone else's post they can take it the wrong way-I am not trying to be a smart @$$. I really want someone who knows for sure, so that this wive's tale does not continue to propagate if it is untrue. )

original.mb

i have had stripped spur twice on my mb, got cnr upper rear arms and metal spur gear conversion and not had one problem since and no OTHER parts have broke as a consequence of upgrading.

ElectronJunk

I have a Duratrax Firehammer, and I used to get less than a gallon of fuel out of a set of plastic gears. I thought about the a-arm upgrade because almost everytime that I would cart wheel the buggy I would destroy both the spur and pinion gears. I decided to try the steel gears instead. I had troubles next with the differential until I upgraded the idler gear shaft in the diff to a 6mm hardened shaft. The next item that started to break for me(when I would run in tall grass non stop for an entire tank of gas) was the clutch bell. The shaft would leterally snap off of the bell housing. I now stick to driving on hard packed dirt and grass if it is cut real short. The only problem I have from time to time now is the set screws in the pinion gear and the spur gear mount tend to come loose from time to time.
At first I was starting to think that the steel gears were a bad idea, because other problems started to arrise, but now that I have those fixed I am very happy with the steel gears and would not go back. In my opinion, the ultimate setup would be the stock spur gear design with steel for the gear, and aluminum for the gear carrier. That way a person could still use the rubber drives to absorb allot of the shock.
Yesterday I was able to sneek away, and I ran my buggy non stop for just under three hours. During that time I had to refuel, tighten screws, change receiver battery, clean air filter, and GRIN, because nothing BROKE.
I firmly believe that the terrain you drive on has ALLOT more to do with parts breakage than the parts themselves.
GOOD LUCK!

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the reply, ElectronJunk. I had suspected that there would be other upgrades that I would need to make in order to run a full set of metal gears, but I was not sure what they would be, until now. I will take your experience and apply it to my MB when I make that change, and I will finally have the tank-tough RC as well!

Maybe someone else will chime in and let us know if they have had more trouble and what we can do to compensate. [&:]

chowderhead72

My Feedback: (4)

It takes alot to make these thing really durable. My sugestions:
1.Steel gear kit ($75)
2.aluminum diff upgrade kit ($60)
3. Elcon upper a-arms ($50)
With those three you can make a big difference in durability

a_vdk

I break my drive cups every couple of tanks now that I have upgraded all of the parts that chowderhead72 has listed. I do take some pretty hard jumps so I am a bad example. I do second both vernon and chowderhead72 to an extent, it really does depend on if every run you try to break something or not

chowderhead72

My Feedback: (4)

Haha...
I just broke an outer cup and the folks at my lhs looked at me like I was a freak.

Uh,,, you broke a what? How!?

a_vdk

My local LHS owner has all but given up on me He has an MT and the only thing he has done is strip the gears I go in almost every day with a distructive bash story and broken a part or two to prove it Again it is mostly drive cups and bearings. I do ocassionaly bend some alloy that gets bent back. I would rather bend than replace

amitysanimal

Upgrade to the ball drive set and that should stop your problems.

Mad Wax

Anyone got pictures of the two different types of transmissions? I notice the ball is a option on the MT, but what is "standard" drive system?

jeepfreak1972

This is what worked for me. Fg alloy upper and lower rear arms and 17:46 gears on the side and up to a 50 tooth on the diff from 48. Alloy diff and hd diff tube. The 17 tooth is steel and the 46 is plastic. I use the alloy gear carrier that the 46 tooth sets on. I upgraded the diff cause I wanted to not because the stock plastic housing broke. I have never broke or stripped the big plastic gear since the alloy arms were put on. As a matter of fact I have broken the spider gears in the diff since all the upgrades and plastic gear is still going strong. I think the steel gear conversion is a waste. I'm hard on my mb and metal gears are breaking before the plastic so what is the sense of spending the money on some up grade that is not needed. IMO alloy arms, smaller spur and let off the gas before you land. That is the way to save the gears.

steveteal

I have gone to steel gears only and never had any problems and I'm hard on the truck!.the clutch works if a rock or something jams the truck will stop or clutch will slip.

a_vdk

Did someone say let off the gas[sm=confused.gif] I managed to break a tooth off of my steel spur it looks like it hit my rear upper arm. It probably happened when I landed on my right rear wheel from about 3 ft. I also had to pull out the sledge to straighten my rear lower arm I actually did not break a drive cup this time. AHHHH.... stress release well spent

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

I've managed to break a few teeth of the 48T diff gear! After buying a new one I've noticed there's a wider one FG#6048/2. I have that one too since I bought 3/4 of a MT-5 from a friend of mine. However since I've rasied the whole rear end with a custom aluminum mount I have had no problems to date.

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks to everyone who replied with the solutions! I wish that I had enough money to make all of the upgrades that were suggested, but I guess I will have to pick just a few for now and upgrade slowly. [&:]

Just to recap, here is a compiled list of solutions to steel gear upgrades:

1. use a smaller spur gear (46 tooth spur and 17 tooth pinion)
2. raise the rear end with an aluminum mount, so that the gears clear the suspension arm
3. replace plastic upper suspension arms with aluminum that do not shift forward
4. upgrade the diff. gears when using steel spur/pinion
5. upgrade idler gear shaft to 6mm hardened shaft (he said hardened shaft...hehehe...)

King of Kong

Hello Icecreamslick,

From my experience, You might put too much toe in on your rear tyre.
when you put more than 2 degree toe in, the lower rear arm will move forward a bit., thus also will move your rear upper link forward.
If you have to put more than 2deg. toe in. try to put spacer on the upper arm in front.
you will then have approx 5mm space beween the upper link and the gear.

My case, I'm also tired replacing the plastic gear all the time. so I put steel gear
I put on 4wd conversion, so i don't need to put too much toe in, and the car is very stable on corner.
here is the link.


http://fg4wd.tripod.com



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dubby

Its not just the alloy arms you need. Best to get the risers as well

Izoomby

Where can I get all the parts I need? I just bought the MB conversion for the FH from FG. Is that who I should be talking to?

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

Try Krikke.

http://www.netshop.nl/shop/rc/index.html