drugtester

My Feedback: (1)

I was just wondering if anyone else was having problems with the rear brakes fading on their monster? It seems on my truck the rear brakes work pretty well for the first couple of minutes and by the time I am finished driving they hardly slow my MT down. Are there any adjustments or upgrades that you could recommend to fix the problem, other than the obvious ones (cable or hydraulic upgrade). Thanks in advance.

Matt

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

This may sound stupid, but if you are using and old receiver battery pack, that could be the problem. It sounds to me like the brake servo may just not be getting the juice that it needs as the battery output is reduced, and therefore not enough power to clamp the brakes down.

Sorry for the shot in the dark! You never know, though.

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

I definately get brake fade on my marder, especially after getting on them over and over again really hard. Just like a real car, when the disks get too hot the stopping power is reduced.
I could be wrong, but i believe i saw an upgrade rear brake disk for these cars. If not then the only other option is a front brake kit.

Jared1106

The last time I ran my MB I was having break issues as well. I have put a lot of fuel thru my MB so I am thinking they just need to be tightened up or adjusted. Either way I am eventually getting front cable or hydro brakes, prolly hydros.

chowderhead72

My Feedback: (4)

Problem? The rear brake IS a problem unless you run only on grass you need much more. Front cables atleast. I removed the rear brake fiasco the second day and have never looked back. I currently run kp mark 3 hydros on the front and as soon as I can afford to kp mk3s front and rear with their radio plate. Good brakes are a must!

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

So...you have no rear brakes at all right now, chowderhead72? Just the front? How is that working? [sm=confused.gif]

I have thought about front brakes (cable-type...$$$), but I'm kind of stand-off-ish...it sounds like a real pain in the butt to get everything just right. [sm=stupid.gif] You have to try and get both sides to stop evenly and at the same time, don't you? Otherwise, you spin in the direction of the stronger brake when you stop or slow down...or am I way off base?

Hydro's seem even more complicated...I'm not that mechanical. [&o] Don't even know how to fill a butane lighter.

Doohan

The rear brake is crap, it puts extra stress on the gears..... get rid of it and at least fit a set of cable front brakes, your car will be 1000% better.

icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

Hmmmm.....................noted. [sm=cool.gif]

R/C Modelsport

The rear layshaft brake is going to fade. Its a cheap and quick solution but to really stop the truck, you need front cable brakes at a minimum or hydros as someone above already mentioned. Big time stopping power over the fiberglass layshaft brake.

Odinn

I custom tuned my brakes because me too, i couldn't stop the car at all !! Anyway i'll post a tutorial on how to strengthen your brakes in a day or two. All you will need is a drill and or some small known house tools.

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

Where is the tutorial?

hellya

Cables brakes require set up and adjusting for time to time... I like hydros easy to install, bleed them just like a car.
When you disconect the rear brake from the servo, you attach the hydro master cylinder in its place, mount the master behind the throttle servo, there is a mount hole already there on both sides of the chassis.... very easy to install
www.fg-hopups.com

chowderhead72

My Feedback: (4)

No problems at all. full speed 2nd gear on asphalt 50mph+ it will stop pretty straight in 30 feet or less(both front tires locked); front and rear will be better yet. in my opinion one set of good hydros on the front is better than cables front and rear and a lot easier to set up. If you you are really concerned about your mechanical abillity or lack thereof buy the hydros pre-assembled and pre-bled. I have seen five mts with the cable brakes and I would say none of them work better than decent and those are all with front and rear.

Hellya's advice is spot-on in regard to the brakes. I would like to see a post of the holes he is talking about for the hydros however.

hellya

If you own a MT, MB, Marder look behind your servo and your radio receiver, behind your battery holder, there are 2 holes in the chassis, 1 on the left 1 on the right, those are for mounting your brake's mastercylinder when using a stock servo tray

chowderhead72

My Feedback: (4)

I assume you are talking about the holes in the aluminum.

raptor 8

i have the upgrade rear brake 97, and the fg#8449 upgrade to that i have to say no matter what surface i am on it locks up the brakes and holds lock up till i let off. NO BRAKE FADE. great power slides. no muss, no fuss, just GREAT REAR BRAKES NOW.

JRexA

I have the Leopard Race that is born with the '97 rear brakes, and a pall has the Marder Race that is also born ith the '97 Rear brakes.

At the moment We are both only running with rear brakes and We never have problems with fading brakes.

I runs with standard wheels, and My friend runs with MT wheels.
Sometime in the near future I am going to put front cable brakes on my Leopard Race.

sasquatch1976

As Raptor 8 + JrexA I have upgrafded/changed the pittyfull 2-disc setup for the tuning version of the big disc.

I love the braking now. No fading, and I'm able to lock the wheels. Not on astphalt though untill some of the speed is off the truck.. But 30 ft.... easy within that mark.

I have the tuning cable brakes on my sportsline touringcar (in my avatar). Easy to setup, and I'm a mechanical moron. No tool skills at all. hehe :-)

I tryied a MT with front brakes. Did not like that i could no longer just tap the brakes and swing the back end 180 degrees on command... But would love to have hydros however.. erhm.. .

drugtester

My Feedback: (1)

If I ordered FG 8449 would that include all of the parts needed to switch to the single disc style from the two disc style? Thanks.

Matt

raptor 8

you need either the plastic or alloy gear carrier, brake upgrade 97 kit, and the 8449 is the upgrade brake parts to that. It includes the metal disk brake and the actual fiber brake pads. Mine will lock up on pavement no problem. the part numbers are
8449- upgrade brake for 97 brake upgrade
7474- alloy gear plate
7497- disk brake set 97
I don't know what the part number is for the plastic gear plate.
I have to say there is no need for cable brakes with this upgrade.

drugtester

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the parts list.

Matt

sasquatch1976

Go for the "Raptor 8" list. If I remember correct the plastic gear plate it only approx. half price, so I also got the alloy version. It has some BLING factor, but best of all no flex and the bearings fit perfectly in this unit.

Best upgrade I have ever made on my MT. Also did it on my touringcar (have front brakes on that though)

Another nice bonus: I see absolutely NO wear to the brake pads, and I have beat the CRAP out of my MT.