Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
#51
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
i wasnt just talking about fg magura brakes - any hydro system fitted to r/c car,mountain bike motorbike ect all works on the system having to be totally air tight as it the oil been pushed under pressure that forces the brake to close - any one who has used hydro on there r/c regardless of make and has had air visable in the pipes will know when you open and close the cylinder by applying the brakes the airbubble only moves back and forward max 2/3 cm and stays in the same position unless its pushed out by bleeding so if the air bubble is in the pipe work half way up the cylinder tube how is your methed of pumping the piston 4/5 times going to move the air bubble out of around 40cm of pipe work - even more if there piped for the back when doing what your doing by pushing the the piston back and forward only moves the air bubble 2/3 cm back and forth - the only way to get rid of air which is common is to push the bubble/air lock by forcing more fluid at the calliper end completely through the whole system collecting it at the bleed valve on the cylinder this also pushes out any trapped air in resevoir.why else do you have bleeding valves on the brakes you sell - or any other makes of hydros.if you want to save $2 on fluid then get the car industry type - but is a $2 saveing worth the risk.if any one would like the fg diagram on how to bleed brakes just send me pm i will email it to you - its the same method regardless of make.
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
there are RC brake systems out there that recomend you bleed from the wheel cylinder to master cylinder there are a few posts in here about them
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
ORIGINAL: hellya
there are RC brake systems out there that recomend you bleed from the wheel cylinder to master cylinder there are a few posts in here about them
there are RC brake systems out there that recomend you bleed from the wheel cylinder to master cylinder there are a few posts in here about them
and thats what i have been saying in my posts - you push the fluid through at the brake/wheel calliper bleed valve and collect the fluid at the master/resevoir cylinder - both valves must be open to push the fluid & locked air out of the system leaving airtight hydro fluid then you close the valves off.whilst bleeding it is important that the master cylinder is in a higher position so you forceing the fluid upwards forceing out the air.
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
I was advised to use mineral oil which i have (citroen suspension/brake fluid) so i try bleeding again. As for the Maguras i was using a hitec 5745 for throttle/brake 17kgs of force should have been enough i might give them a try again on the back if they don't work you'll find them on fleabay soon.
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
ORIGINAL: BILKO1
I was advised to use mineral oil which i have (citroen suspension/brake fluid) so i try bleeding again. As for the Maguras i was using a hitec 5745 for throttle/brake 17kgs of force should have been enough i might give them a try again on the back if they don't work you'll find them on fleabay soon.
I was advised to use mineral oil which i have (citroen suspension/brake fluid) so i try bleeding again. As for the Maguras i was using a hitec 5745 for throttle/brake 17kgs of force should have been enough i might give them a try again on the back if they don't work you'll find them on fleabay soon.
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
ORIGINAL: hellya
Right....... but that is not how we bleed our brake system......... that is my point
Right....... but that is not how we bleed our brake system......... that is my point
ok fair point comment - but how do you bleed your system,you say you open resevoir lid and fill it with oil - push the piston 4/5 times and thats them done - whats the bleeding nipples for on the brake callipers you sell - are they just for show!!!!
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
ORIGINAL: hellya
No need to buy a bleeding kit, Go to any auto parts store, buy any kind of auto brake fluid, fill up your master cylinder, pump the master manually buy hand, keep preasure on the master by pushing in after pumping it 4-5 times. Now open your bleed valve on the wheel cylinder this will push air and oil out, close the wheel cylinder repeat process until bleed. Just like a cars braking system.
No need to buy a bleeding kit, Go to any auto parts store, buy any kind of auto brake fluid, fill up your master cylinder, pump the master manually buy hand, keep preasure on the master by pushing in after pumping it 4-5 times. Now open your bleed valve on the wheel cylinder this will push air and oil out, close the wheel cylinder repeat process until bleed. Just like a cars braking system.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3003246/tm.htm
Only down side of cable brakes is the constant adjusting because of cable stretch
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
as soon as you open bleed nipple at cylinder end or brake end with nothing attached i.e syringe full of fluid to be pushed through oil always comes out putting air into brakes instantly - you also lose oil even 1 tiny drop of fluid out of the caliper means the system is no longer full and air will replace the missing fluid when you lock the system back up.when you push the piston back and forward to bleed like you have said - the bubble only moves back and forward 2/3 cms regardless what nipple you have open - infact doing that with brake nipple open will just pull air into the system - unless you are stoping air getting into the calliper some other way whilst its open - but that aint the way i have bled 3 makes of brakes ive had in past - it aint about the make its about the method and i would think it would apply across the board to keep system air tight you must stop air getting in - but if im wrong ill hold my hands up to it.like to here comments from other hydro owners with dif makes.
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
OK you made me almost doubt myself So I opened up my master cylinder and one of my wheel cylinders and put some air in the lines.
Now this is how you bleed our brakes.....This is my way, you can do it anyway you like, this way works for our brake system. Anyone who owns a set of these try this and see if it works.
Take your lid off your master cylinder, this STAYS OFF during the entire bleeding process,
Make sure you have brake fluid in your masters reservoir, push your master plunger in(as if applying the brakes), open your wheel cylinders bleed valve, alittle fluid will drip out, close the bleed valve.
Pull your masters cylinders plunger out, this will draw the air bubble back towards the master but when the plunger gets to the very end the air is pushed down the brake line by the brake fluid in the masters reservoir..... at the time push your masters plunger in again, open your wheel cylinders bleed valve, again fluid will drip out, ALWAYS close the bleed valve. REPEAT THIS PROCESS.
******KEEP YOUR MASTER CYLINDERS RESERVOIR FULL OF BRAKE FLUID WHILE BLEEDING*******
The bubble travels futher down the brake line.... I had to do this 3 times to push my airbubble out of my brake line from my master to my wheel cylinder...........when finished replace you masters cylinders lid
There my be an easier way, such as the your way wakey, if you have a seringe.... I can see that working good too
Now this is how you bleed our brakes.....This is my way, you can do it anyway you like, this way works for our brake system. Anyone who owns a set of these try this and see if it works.
Take your lid off your master cylinder, this STAYS OFF during the entire bleeding process,
Make sure you have brake fluid in your masters reservoir, push your master plunger in(as if applying the brakes), open your wheel cylinders bleed valve, alittle fluid will drip out, close the bleed valve.
Pull your masters cylinders plunger out, this will draw the air bubble back towards the master but when the plunger gets to the very end the air is pushed down the brake line by the brake fluid in the masters reservoir..... at the time push your masters plunger in again, open your wheel cylinders bleed valve, again fluid will drip out, ALWAYS close the bleed valve. REPEAT THIS PROCESS.
******KEEP YOUR MASTER CYLINDERS RESERVOIR FULL OF BRAKE FLUID WHILE BLEEDING*******
The bubble travels futher down the brake line.... I had to do this 3 times to push my airbubble out of my brake line from my master to my wheel cylinder...........when finished replace you masters cylinders lid
There my be an easier way, such as the your way wakey, if you have a seringe.... I can see that working good too
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
ok thanks for taking time to explain - but if that form of bleeding works on your hydro it will on fg magura also and any other makes - alls i need to do is take the top of my cylinder (just 4 small alan bolts) and pour in some fluid and follow the rest of your advice - i will give it a try next time they need bleeding - even though it seems a long process to bleed them as well as hard work just to remove one air bubble if not more - just intrested on how much hassle it is removing air without forceing fluid through which take 10 secs a side on my brakes.
looking at your brakes more closely would it not be easier to A) simply attach a syringe of fluid on the brake cylinder open it up ,b) take the lid of master cylinder C) push the fluid through till the cylinder is full and air locks are visably gone. D)lock the nipples up and replace resevoir cover
that system take you less than 5 mins and more secure airtight system.
and you dont need to spend £50 on filler kit - alls i use is a syringe from a printer refill kit with a 10cm lengh of silicone tube attached fill with mineral hydro oil then push the silicon tube over the brake nipple and open - push the fluid through and you can see the air getting pushed up the pipes in a matter of seconds - once res is full lock everything up and remove syringe.
looking at your brakes more closely would it not be easier to A) simply attach a syringe of fluid on the brake cylinder open it up ,b) take the lid of master cylinder C) push the fluid through till the cylinder is full and air locks are visably gone. D)lock the nipples up and replace resevoir cover
that system take you less than 5 mins and more secure airtight system.
and you dont need to spend £50 on filler kit - alls i use is a syringe from a printer refill kit with a 10cm lengh of silicone tube attached fill with mineral hydro oil then push the silicon tube over the brake nipple and open - push the fluid through and you can see the air getting pushed up the pipes in a matter of seconds - once res is full lock everything up and remove syringe.
#62
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
I agree ...........$1 for a 20cc syringe http://www.misterinkjet.com/misc_parts.htm and a little piece of fuelline hose
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RE: Help with front Hydro brake set-up!
Well on Friday I finally got the chance to test my brake setup. The car stops a lot better but not stopping the way I would like it too. I had to make a adjustment to the rear brake linkage. When I applied the brakes the rear brake would barely lock up. Now it seems to lock up but not enough. When I ran the buggy in the street and applied the brakes it took it about 10 feet to stop going from full throttle to braking. Neither the front or rear brakes locked up. The brake bias seems to be more in the front. I'm using the HS-645MG servo for the front/rear brakes & throttle. Is this setup too much for the servo to handle or do I need to adjust/tweek the linkage better. I know when I was just using the HS-645MG servo for the throttle/rear brake setup the rear brakes would lock up when applied. Would it be better if I went with a third servo (HS-5645MG) to use with the front hydro's only? Other option is to swap out the HS-645MG for the HS-5645MG and keep my original setup (Front/Rear brakes & throttle on one servo)? If I do go with the third servo for the front hydro's then I need to get a receiver bracket to relocate the receiver box so I can install the third servo. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!