icecreamslick

My Feedback: (9)

If the engine dies at high speeds, does that mean that the top end screw on the carb is too lean? [sm=confused.gif]

original.mb

sounds too lean to me, is your idle set ok?plmk

also with anything to do with fg and engine tuning and aftermarket engine stuff contact simon at www.sbracing.co.uk

StefanL

Hello!

I have the same problem, with a stock Marder. Just got it (posted a pic in the picture thread) and have tried it a bit.

It idles well, was a little difiicult to start at first, but then it dies when throttled...

I figured it didnĀ“t get enough fuel, so I checked the fuel line. Sure enough the silicon hose was not sitting deep enough in the tank... I lowered it but the problem persists.

I suppose a bit of adjusting is in order, but since I donĀ“t have the instructions for the enginge I donĀ“t want to go haywire with the screws without knowing what to do.

The top end screw, eh? I guess IĀ“ll have to take a good look for it. The is a screw with a bar going through it a the top for easy turning but that must be the idle, right? Is the top end screw the one right next to it or the bigger one a bit lower? IĀ“ve been looking for some online instructions but havenĀ“t found them.

IĀ“ve been tinkering with the intake lever as well, it starts easier with it closed a bit.

Any help is appreciated!

Stefan



Edited to add:

I just found the motor instructions PDF on fgperformance homepage. So now I know what the screws are for.... But IĀ“d appreciate any basic handling tips you might have anyway!

Stefan

original.mb

if you visit www.fgperformancerc.com and look at there hints, tips, tricks page i'm sure there is info there that will help you out but if problem persists and you require no nonsense factual help please contact simon at www.sbracing.co.uk he will be able to tell you exactly where your going wrong and he is a good guy very eager to help which in my book gets the thumbs up.

StefanL

I just looked over the tips on fgperformance, and realized my full-load screw was about four turns too far out.... Hey, that might explain a thing or two!

Now IĀ“ll just have to recharge my reciever battery and go test.

Thanks,

Stefan

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

WOW, i'm suprised it even ran with either of the screws out that far. I've found that even slight adjustments make a big difference, i can't even imagine what turning one out that many times would do. BTW that means it was running too rich.
Usually you can (or at least i can) tell which way to turn the screw by how much smoke is coming out of the exhaust. If you are having a problem and alot of smoke is coming out then you are running too rich and need to turn the screw in, if on the other hand if you are having trouble and there is next to no blue smoke coming out of the exhaust then you are running too lean and need to turn the needle out. What i mean by "having trouble" is if the car isnt taking off properly, is lacking speed, stalling, or stuttering.

cormierone

Ice,

Yes,, Are you running the X-Can? I had to turn up my idle screw and I also richen up my high speed needle. Turn it 1 1/2 turns out.

Cormierone

original.mb

stefan,

let us know how you go when you charge batteries

StefanL

Will do Veron, but I guess it is not much fun at all. I use a charger just like everyone else. I canĀ“t take credit for the needle being completely out of tune...IĀ“ll have to credit that to the previous owner...

IĀ“ll have to rush of to a wedding (not my own) so it will be a couple of days until I can run the car again. But when I do, I promise I will post the nerve-wracking results for you Veron and everyone else here to see!

Have a nice weekend,

Stefan

original.mb

stefan,

sounds good mate, enjoy the wedding

StefanL

Back from a nice bit of tuning and racing!

I can tell you the enginge runs much better now that the full-load screw is adjusted. It runs very well att full load.

Lost some skin in the process due to the pullstart, the enginge was quite difficult to bring alive, I hope it starts easier next time...

Another problem solved was servo twitching. I dismissed low voltage as a reason, because the reciever batteri was just fully loaded. Then I realized the antenna had fallen out of its mounting and was lying on top of the engine. The ignition was interfering with the reciever... After remounting the antenna the problem rectified itself. Imagine my sigh of relief, I thought it was going to be an expensive problem to solve otherwise, new reciever batteries or reciever.

One small problem remains though, the engine hesitates when given full throttle from idle. It doesnĀ“t stop, but it takes a second for it to rev up. I have adjusted the full load needle so that it gives little smoke at high revs and it runs well at load. Just not up to high load, so to speak... I have tried different full-load needle setting but it doen not fix the problem. I touched the idle needle for a cleaner idle, but donĀ“t want to adjust it more unless I am given advice to do so.

Still, I like the car, it is a blast to drive. Flipped it and broke the body a bit more, looks like a new body is (even more now) on my short list...

Also, a twelve-ish kid stopped by on his bike while I tuned the car, made him interested in some wholesome RCĀ“ing. Always fun to attract new kids to the hobby!

Stefan

jimbo1890

I can't see a low speed mixture screw on that carby which would solve your bottom end lag . I have a very early model marder with a 22cc Robin engine I was not happy with the carby so I replaced it with a walbro carby that comes on the late model engines. I scored it off fleabay for less than $20.00 delivered. after a little modification of the manifold mainly matching up the fuel pulse holes and increasing the size of the bore I ended up with a small increase in performance but best of all it was easier to tune and it stayed in tune.

This may be worth considering


here are a few pics with the new carby fitted but no filter yet