HeatFire

well... i just got a failsafe that reacts on signal loss... but i want some battery failsafe.. what is recommend i buy?

2pock

My Feedback: (4)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHDJ2&P=7

Easiest and simple !

Mad Wax

That is not a failsafe! It's just a visual battery monitor.
IMO I would say use a receiver with a built in failsafe (PCM Futaba) then set battery low level fails safe on, and to a stop. So if the RX stops getting signals it'll stop, and will also stop if the RX battery runs low.

However it does not protect the car runaway if the battery is disconnected whilst going at speed, and if the servo burns out at a certain position.

HeatFire

what can i buy to protect it from running away then?

Mad Wax

Keep the car in it's box!

Seriously though you need some kind of second battery backup system or capacitor storage system so if/when the primary large pack fails it falls back onto the second battery then shuts the servo down. Second battery only needs to be a small 4.8 or 6v pack, AAA would do. I think they exist but don't have experience of one..I will buy one ASAP also.

Read up on one of my recent posts in radio section (brand new freshly charged battery only had 200mah of charge, so the RX low level battery feature saved a runaway!!)

ps if you change from "kiddie toy" 27mhz frequency to those of PCM FM 40mhz (UK legal frequencies for "land" RC vehicles) less likely to have conflicting transmitters. However it is likely another RC user might be settin up/driving his car in the backyard 100 yards away whilst you're driving around. I guess if you want total piece of mind go for Spectrum or similar.

JRexA

Aftr a Runaway without broken bones, I have just ordered an Engine Kill Failsafe from eBay Germany

It can also switch off the engine with the RC controller.
It is designed to be used together with a receiver, that has a built in failsafe.

I will post more info, when I have received and tested it.

It will only work with engines that has a Kill Switch.

radio_controlled_mad

can you post a link to it - useing pcm 1024 which has fail safe across the 3chls - but to be extra safe would prefer to buy a engine kill switch.

JRexA

Radio_Controlled_Mad:
Here is the link to the one I ordered: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tem=7351640220

He also has the following home page: http://www.fg-tune.de

He is likely going to have that type again very soon. I lost the Auction for one that started at € 1, then I bought this one, as Buy it Now.
He makes several types of Engine Kill Failsafes.

I really likes that it can be turned of with the RC controller.

p.s. Tell him that you saw me mention his Failsafes.
(edit: added ps and homepage)

radio_controlled_mad

thanks

Mad Wax

How is it switched off from the controller? 3rd channel? (but I'm using that) God damn limited RC car TX with limited channels [:@] brothers has plane receivers and they're cheaper but far more channels. I can't even use a dedicated channel for a battery monitor (need Y lead)

StefanL

I have a GWS FS-1 failsafe, and just today I discovered it seriously malfunctions sometimes.

I´ve had a lot of problem with the radio disturbance and a lean running engine, and just fitted a new G260 carb and fg performance filter. By the way, I didn´t have to do anything with the manifold of my G2D, the carb fit straight on!

Now the engine runs much better and produces smoke wich it didn´t do before... It´s nice to have an engine that doesn´t run so lean the engine might be damaged...¨

Ok, so let me get to the point. I realized today that the failsafe apply the brake, ie. goes into failsafe mode when I give full throttle, even when the engine is turned off and the car is still. It doesn´t happen when I am close or bent over the car, that´s why I haven´t found the cause of the problems before, I just thought it was radio interference.

I put the car up against a fence and walked away with the throttle on max, engine off. I could see the throttle servo arm at great distance (it is white). At about thirty to fifty feet I could see that the failsafe put on max brake for a second, then returned to full throttle, and again and again.

What could be the cause? I figured before that interference from the ignition was the culprit, but I know now that is not the case. By the way, the reciever battery is fully charged.

I don´t know how to adjust the failsafe, it has a small screw but I don´t know what way to turn and what exactly it does. Does it adjust the servo travel, or the voltage at wich point the failsafe engages?

I dont´fell all that happy about running the car without a failsafe, so I´d rather have it sorted soon.

Stefan

radio_controlled_mad

could just be a faulted reciever/failsafe - or if there is interference from engine fg suggest useing a metal shielded spark plug cap to cut down on this - not sure if they make that much diference though!! - before i changed to a pcm receiver with f/s built in i had same sort of prob with a cheap £20 f/s (fasttrax) - it used thottle up and down for no reason,i think when r/x battery loses its charge under normal running the cheaper f/s kick in for no reason,try setting it with a r/x battery with little charge - but its worth spending money on a good radio setup considering the price of large scale models - i take it the gws failsafe you have purchased is the small orange one were you set with a small screw!!!

teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

This is somthing I did with my nitros, its a piece of plastic that keeps the on/off switch from getting turned off in a bad crash or roll over. also I use a Voltwatch and a cheap, but reliable failsafe..

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

My Ofna fail safe would glitch when it was over 50ft away. gas and brake kind of deal. I knew the batteries were fine because I have a similar voltage meter that was only $20CAD and looks much better. I put this inside my custom receiver box and water proofed it.

I tried it on my new Spectrum radio and found that the Ofna doesn't work at all. Must have to do with the programing. When I tried it on my other remote it works fine!

So now I just use the built in fail safe in the Spectrum and keep an eye on the battery level. I'll be make a couple of 3300 packs so I'll be fine. I'll still have my 1900 and 2400 as back-ups too.

HeatFire

teamchrome thats a great idea with the plastic.. my old nitro car once got turned off jumping.. i guess ill buy a failsafe with voltage check.. anyone know if they still work with a spektrum?? i know the signal part doesnt work.. but i only care about the voltage part since spektrum got i built in failsafe for signal..

ibstar

gws fs1 it does lost signal and low rx battery
never had no problems, used in cars/boats/hovercraft

StefanL

I just came in after a good bit of racing...

I ran the car without failsafe and it was just perfect. With the new carb...jeez! One good thing was it is dark outside so I drove with the body off on a parking lot and witht he failsafe installed the small red light went like a strobe on the car. No wonder it has performed like crap before. I adjusted the screw on the failsafe but it didn´t help at all.

Atleast I now know the cause of my problems, but I am guessing at if it is the failsafe itself that is faulty or if interference is to blame.

Now I´m getting a voltage meter ASAP, and maybe another failsafe. A spektrum is on my short list, but until I get one I need something else. A voltage meter is always good to have though.

Stefan

Automan

The first failsafe i had for my fg bigfoot was the gws fs-1, but for me it worked perfect. I did only have it for a month or so, then i got my 3pk with built in failsafe that works really good, and i feel safe with this equipment i have now. Will sell one of the two 3pk's i have, or give it to my brother, because i really want a Nomad Sensor radio

I can highly recommend having a good voltspy installed, that gives you a good idea of how much juice you have left in the cell's, kinda like a second failsafe

To recommendation of failsafe, i have heard that Venom failsafe is very good and reliable.

Stefan, good to hear that your new carb worked out so well for you, great [sm=thumbup.gif]

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

To protect against a sudden battery disconnect all you need is a throttle return spring that is strong enough to pull the throttle servo back to idle when power is removed from the servo. Put a strong throttle return spring and a radio failsafe on and you are about as safe as you need to be.

StefanL

Good thinking, tommythecat. I´ll put on a return spring as well. Simple yet very clever.

Stefan

Mad Wax

tommythecat I did that (used a spring from a clothes peg, it's alot stronger than the supplied small weak spring with the car. When I turn off the RX the servo is not rotated back. I've made sure the grub stop is at the right place also.

turnell

Most failsafes are good but dont buy an electronically set failsafe they tend to get confused over which way they want to turn your servo, i know from past experience. im now using a venom failsafe it only cost £25 and is manually set which stops any programming errors.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

Maybe it is harder to pull off with large scale. My experiences are limited to 1/10th and 1/8th scale, and all I do is stretch a coil spring from the end of the servo horn to some area on my model that pulls it back to center when power is removed. It takes a bit of trial and error to find a strong enough spring and a good mounting location that will recenter the servo without putting too much strain on it (which will discharge batteries faster and wear the servo faster), but it is definately worth the effort. Mine has already saved me once when the doubel sided tape pulled off of my faisafe and it came off alltogether. If it weren't for my throttle return spring, my rusty would have taken a bath in the pond.

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

The carbs on these engines have a spring on them but you can always add another one for more of a return spring feature. I used that when I have my Hyper 7 Pro.

Just make sure you batteries are fully charged. Since you use regular sub-c it's good to discharge them completely. Once you find out how much amps you equipment draws you have a good idea of how long you can run for. I'll be making a few 3300 packs for myself this week.

teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

My buggy with throttle return spring.
I have these on all my cars and trucks,and fail fafe.