jeepfreak1972

I made 2 laps around my track tonight and seized up my 26 cc zen mid flight over the tripple. The motor stopped instantly. I have been running the same oil and ratio for a year. Pulled the cylinder off and the bore is junk as well as the piston is smeared on the exhaust port side. No dirt ever in the engine and none this time either. There was no warning signs such as a lean condition or loss of power. I had to drive the piston out through the plug hole with lube to get it out. I will be changing brands of oil for sure. Blue Marble is what I run but not anymore. Maybe its a fluke but I never had trouble with golden spectro in dirt bikes. I might change to that or belray. Hell, I might even change to the Stihl chain saw oil that I use in my saw. If it works in a high rpm saw that is designed to run wide open for long periods it should work for this car. Damn this pisses me off.

jimbo1890

what oil/fuel ratio were you running?

mnf1sand

Amsoil Dominator 50/1 all day anyday. 20,000 plus rpms on the pavement race track in a modified 230 for 30 mins at a time. Or wide open in the dirt for a full tank with maxxed out gearing (low). Never a oil issue.

jeepfreak1972

32:1 Looks like the rod might be bent slightly to the left if viewing from the rear or carb side.

Bigboytoys

My Feedback: (5)

Thats the same brand and the same mixture that I use, and I have never had any troubles yet. How long have you been
running blue marble?

jeepfreak1972

About a year but only 2.5 gal of fuel. So not much running. I turned a guy I work with on to it. His boy races for Kawasaki all over the US, He siezed 2 new bikes down at Loretta Lyn's races about a month ago. Don't know what to think now. I should have went with Amsoil like I was going to do in the first place.

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

I use Redline myself for the past 10 months. Does anyone else uses this?? You can only get it a motorcycle shops.

Bigboytoys

My Feedback: (5)

I've went through about three gallons with it, so far no problems. Did your's run good? Where you mixing it with gas or colman fuel?

MrMikeG

Check the carb gasket for leaks, the black manifolds have a known problem for leaking.

Croozer

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry to hear about your engine Jeepfreak.

rfaster

My Feedback: (1)

I too use Golden Spec for my XCross bikes and have used on all of my FG's... can't beat it IMO!

Mnf _ 50 to 1 seems like a lot - I'm running close to 32X1 - have you always ran 50 to 1?

mnf1sand

50/1 is less than 32/1.... and yes we have used that mixture for years

jimbo1890

jeapfreak thats bad luck mate. Good quality oil at 32/1 should have given you no problems at all.

sorry mate one other question. Were you running in cut grass? I have found that my engine sucks grass clippings in past the starter ratchet and clogs the cooling fins on the cylinder block causing it to run to hot. Did you find much grass when you removed the shroud?

rfaster

My Feedback: (1)

mnf - meant to say is 50/1 enough - apparently if you have been running "the hell out of it" it must be.

Acs_guitars

My Feedback: (3)

32:1 is the standard for 2 cycle engines. I use Poulan 2 cycle engine oil additive and after 3+ gallons have had no trouble at all and runs smooth and fast. I am just curious.... Did you do a good break-in on your engine to start with?? Then again, if your friends son had 2 motors sieze with that oil, I would definitely switch brands!

Tigger N. Bennie

I use Redline in my vette--engine, transmission, and rear end. However, I don't have to purchase Redline at a motorcycle shop since I can just drive down the street and purchase it separately or simply have my oil changed using Redline. Redline is also available online. The RCs have been getting Lucas, Opti-2, and whatever premix is used at the races.

http://www.redlineoil.com

Here is a link to a two stroke oil mixture chart from RCTek.
http://www.rctek.com/pdf/fuel_to_oil_ratio_chart.pdf

Here is a link to a Zenoah engine manual showing "1:25" during "initial operation".
http://fgperformancerc.hypermart.net...structions.pdf

Automan

I'm am about to start with Redline's 2stroke Racing oil (first i had their kart oil, but i could change those to this racing oil... so i did), have about two bottles and I'm very confident that i will be totally satisfied with this oil.

I have used another good brand racing-oil before, with no problems. I just have a few oil-brand favorites, Castrol, Mobil those two have worked just great for my real car and motorcycles i have had, and I'm as i said very confident that this Redline Racing oil work out just fine... cause many over here use it in racing gocarts and motorcykles, but as always.. we have to see

If i do finish this mixture i have now this weekend, i will make a new mix with that new Redline oil and keeping my fingers crossed just joking ..... with shivering body i will mix the new substance... fire in the hole !!!

I think it will be interesting to see what this Redline will do

jeepfreak1972

I mixed it with coleman. Might change back to regular gas. Don't know. As far as breake in, I followed the instructions on Molzer Mowery's site. Idle for 1st tank up to temp then shut off until completely cool then repeat process until 1st tank is gone. Then drive slow for the next 2 tanks varying speeds.

Automan

I use a little extra mixture on the needles.. just a tiny extra when driving in a engine, then drive very easy the first tank, using max half throttle, then let it totally cool down, then second i drive about the same and now and again very seldom a rev it up almost full on a very flat easy surface, then using the max half throttle i complete that tank, and the same with next tanks and so on.

It's not that hard to drive in a engine, just let it sit on idle until it get it's working temp, then use it easy and don't let it work to hard, make sure it cools down between each tank (if not, you will probably have to drive for a longer time to get it fully run in, then you would by letting it cool down between the tanks) and you should be fine. I don't understand why it should sit on idle the first tank.

Btw, using mineral oil when running in a engine helps, but are not a must to use. It just takes a little longer to run in a engine on fully synthetic racing oil then using mineral oil.


Edit:These are goped engines that would be run in with much heavier weight then a Rc car usually.
The only main thing to think about is to not rev it to high until it's fully run in, you can by the second tank do one or two almost fully quick revs, but mainly use the max half throttle until you feel it get's "looser"... are a little easier to start, respond quicker... just feels like it comes alive, then you are done and can start enjoy it fully

jeepfreak1972, it would be a good idea to try another oil my friend [sm=thumbup.gif]

ammdrew

do you have any images of the piston, this motor if new may have a tolerance issue, It is very rare to see a stock motor lock for any reason, if it locked on a oil mixture 90% of the time you will have purpled the crank a bit. to lock the piston in the cylinder it is almost more likly a ring broke or stuck. On some oils with heavy mixtures you get a lot of carbon, that carbon can stick the ring in the piston, but the run time on this motor seems very low to have built enough carbon up.

OLD_SLOW and in the WAY

some of the 260's had fit issues with the pistons/bore fit and in the 2 laps it seized means it wasnt warmed up all the way before youy got on the throttle...meaning the piston got larger than the bore and got stuck... golfballin the piston skirts helps and running a castor oil is a good thing too cuz castor will run to a hot spot where conventional oil or synthetic will run away from a hot spot. next time make a few laps to get things warmed up... then go for it

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the Redline has worked well for me at 32:1. $16cad for 500ml is pretty good. I still haven't finished my first bottle!!
Some stores carry the regular oil but not the 2-stroke, so that's why I have to go to a cycle shop for it. No big deal though.

Croozer

My Feedback: (1)

I don't think your problem came from the oil, all these mineral based 2 stroke oils are basically the same, with different colors and marketing.

I use cheap Sears 2 cycle engine oil and it works great, it does not have the pretty packaging, but it is getting the job done.

hpiguy

I use Klotz Super Techniplate.

Synthetic oil with 20% castor oil. I run it at 32:1.

Works great for me and is available direct from Klotz or at any bike, snowmobile shop for 9 bucks a quart.

jeepfreak1972

I will try to get pictures of the piston and cyl later. To answer someones ?, no grass in the cooling fins. I idled the engine for a min. or 2 before running to warm it up. Crank isn't purple and everything turns smoothly. Piston almost looks new except for where the scoring happened. No carbon except for black color on the top of the piston not thick though. The cylinder has a little shelf or ridge where the problem occured. I have noticed this about my oil. This can has been mixed for about 6 months. I didn't have alot of time to run this summer. A couple of weeks ago I thought I put fuel from the new unmixed in can because the green is going away from the fuel and it looked almost clear in the tank. I grabbed the can that I got the fuel from and it had written on it 32:1 mixed. I know that I mixed it. I always put that on the can so I don't have to guess. I looked in the can to see the slight tint of green. I ran that whole tank on a clay oval. Wide open most of the way around. NO failure. Yesterday I filled again from the same can and it looked even clearer. I knew there was oil in it and thought I was just seeing things. Bang engine shot. It's almost like the coleman does something to the oil and it looses its lubricating qualities over a long period. It also seemed to smoke less but again I knew I put the oil in so I didn't think much of it. Also I shook the can before every fill. I have read on here before that coleman and some oils do not work together well. Also today I decided to mix up a batch of REAL gas with the same oil at the same ratio to replace the coleman in my weed wacker and leaf blower, no need for 3 blown engines if this stuff is the cause, and on the back of the oil jug in large black letters that I missed before, it says DO NOT MIX IN METAL FUEL CAN. Guess what a coleman can is made of? I don't know what happens if you do mix in metal it just says not too.I will break in the new parts just like before and try the Blue marble again with regular gas and see what happens. I run this stuff in every 2 stroke I have but the Stihl saw and the snowthrower have regular gas not hte white coleman stuff. They have had no problems. I will also give more warm up time before running it hard just to be safe. So what do you think. Strange stuff. Maybe a fluke.