Play/slack in throttle rod
10-02-2005, 06:38 AM
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Play/slack in throttle rod
When my throttle servo pulls on my Marder throttle rod, it at first just straightens out the bend in the rod slightly. This means it won't pull the arm to its fullest extent, limiting power. Is there a way of preventing this? I notice there is slight resistance from the throttle arm on the carb caused by the angle at which the rod pulls it, slightly away from the carb body.
Have I set it up wrong or is this the nature of the beast? I have left a little play between the collars so they do not grip the arm.
I cannot move the servo post to the end of the horn as it would then appear to be in danger of rubbing on the body.
While I've got you, is there a good way to prevent small rocks jamming against the diff housing and denting it? I think I saw a plate for this but cannot be sure it was for this function or to mount a wheelie bar onto.
I've also got rocks in my pinion, so I'm looking at a gear cover. Serves me right for doing circle work on my father in law's farm. But boy, was it fun!
Have I set it up wrong or is this the nature of the beast? I have left a little play between the collars so they do not grip the arm.
I cannot move the servo post to the end of the horn as it would then appear to be in danger of rubbing on the body.
While I've got you, is there a good way to prevent small rocks jamming against the diff housing and denting it? I think I saw a plate for this but cannot be sure it was for this function or to mount a wheelie bar onto.
I've also got rocks in my pinion, so I'm looking at a gear cover. Serves me right for doing circle work on my father in law's farm. But boy, was it fun!
10-02-2005, 08:48 AM
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RE: Play/slack in throttle rod
1: I have my throttle rod on the side of the horn closest to the steering servo so I can move it in and out without problems touching the body.With the brake shaft on the outside the brake can be adjusted at the rear of the car where the throttle can't.
2: taken from a previous thread
3: get a steel pinion it reduces wear on the spur as well. I have now run nearly 20 litres through this thing and I'm still on my first spur though it's looking rather second hand now.
2: taken from a previous thread
OK guys, Here is my idea and the reason why I think it works.
These cars only travel forward so the diff tube only spins one way so I think stones are only getting jammed in front of the diff between it and the chassis. people with diff raisers I think would have less problems need larger rocks to get jammed.
My idea is simple and cheap. Get some roof and gutter sealant, silastic, silicone in a tube, etc. Remove the diff from the chassis and make a pile of silicone on the chassis in the front half of the diff position, making sure you clean the chassis surface so the silicone sticks well. Don't be shy with the silicone, better too much than not enough. You can do the back of the diff as well but I don't think it's needed because of the direction of rotation of the diff. Take some grease and smear it over the the diff tube. This grease is to stop the silicone from sticking to the diff as well. Install the diff and make sure the diff tube sets into the silastic. Let the silastic go hard wipe away the grease and you now have a silicone rubber barrier between the chassis and diff that stops stones damaging your diff.
I did this about six months ago and haven't put a mark on my tube since.
It's working for me! What do you guys think?
< Message edited by jimbo1890 -- 8/19/2005 2:49:45 PM >
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These cars only travel forward so the diff tube only spins one way so I think stones are only getting jammed in front of the diff between it and the chassis. people with diff raisers I think would have less problems need larger rocks to get jammed.
My idea is simple and cheap. Get some roof and gutter sealant, silastic, silicone in a tube, etc. Remove the diff from the chassis and make a pile of silicone on the chassis in the front half of the diff position, making sure you clean the chassis surface so the silicone sticks well. Don't be shy with the silicone, better too much than not enough. You can do the back of the diff as well but I don't think it's needed because of the direction of rotation of the diff. Take some grease and smear it over the the diff tube. This grease is to stop the silicone from sticking to the diff as well. Install the diff and make sure the diff tube sets into the silastic. Let the silastic go hard wipe away the grease and you now have a silicone rubber barrier between the chassis and diff that stops stones damaging your diff.
I did this about six months ago and haven't put a mark on my tube since.
It's working for me! What do you guys think?
< Message edited by jimbo1890 -- 8/19/2005 2:49:45 PM >
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10-02-2005, 05:15 PM
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RE: Play/slack in throttle rod
If I move to another thread or spline, that means I can get more throttle but it won't idle. I need more free movement in the rod, so it doesn't bind on the throttle arm.
10-02-2005, 06:47 PM
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RE: Play/slack in throttle rod
