hellya

I bought some alloy upper front arms for my FH, the carson attack arms should be the same, 100% interchangeable parts.
I got the lauterbacher arms for the carson attack.

I go to fit the arm, I thought you would just slide the hinge pin through the front bulkhead, the spacer, the alloy arm, 2nd spacer and out the rear of the front bulkhead........There are threads where you would slide the pin through[sm=confused.gif] is this normal or did I get the wrong part? The pin is too big to fit through.

I know its late and my brain is 1/2 dead... what am i doing wrong.... help anyone

Hey chevyman de whats up with this???

Dr.ArmoMaxx

So the pin is too tick and as i can see in the pic it is also long?? and i don't see any round hole where you slide a (well i dont remember the name) but it holds the pin down so it won't come out

i think they put a wrong part in a right packaging

radio_controlled_mad

my freind had a carsons attack - same as firehammer i think,any way he bought a fg marder beetle conversion for it but it would not fit - the carsons chassi are around 4mm longer and the front bulkheads seems to take most of this extra gap as the A & b block are further apart - more spacers and different lengh of pins.

edit: wouldnt of thought there should be threads in the arms - if anything there should be teflon bushes to let the arms move freely on the pins

hellya

(Photo1) Heres what the stock FH looks like......the carson attacks arms are the same so are the travellers, XTM

(Photo 2) I purchased this alloy FG onroad bulkhead and tower for my Firehammer, it came with hinge pins from a FG car, the pins are exactly the same size as my FH pins there is no difference in length or width the bulkhead is the same also.

I hope its a wrong part... I got 2 sets of upper arms and 2 sets of lower on the way

(Photo 3) Just about done with the rear end waiting on a couple more parts

(Photo 4) Houston I think we have a problem, Look at the size difference this has got to be for a 1/8 car

radio_controlled_mad

those look like fg touring car parts/front end not off-road even though the arms are the same the way they are set up is different,off-roaders like the marder race ect have only one shock mount placed on the B block,you have different mount systems that uses two plastic blocks that also needs pins to mount the shocks - as used on fg touring cars and fg clones - which are spaced out more due to the extra chassi lengh on the clones.but i agree i cant see why there is threads inside the alloy arms.

edit: fg offroaders use small spacers/washers between the arms and the bulkheads - looking at your fire hammer pics those have larger 3-4 mm spacers at each side of the arm - that is to make up the extra gap in the clone chassi, i have seen for myself the diference in size, in the end my freind got rid of the carsons chassi in favour of fg so he could use the fg beetle conversion - but when he come to fit the carsons parts he had trouble meshing parts of the drive train - wishbone pins ect,so i dont know were people get this 95% fg interchangeable figure from.

hellya

Heres my firehamers arms on a FG onroad bulkhead and tower.... it bolts right up to my chassis holes aline nothings off..................they are 95% interchangeable

its got to be the part i was sent...... look at the width difference and you cant slid your hindge pin through the hole on the alloy arm

Mabey I missed somthing...... here is what came in the alloy upgrade

radio_controlled_mad

when i had stock plastic marder arms there was 2 or 3 small shimms not even 1mm in total - as soon as i put eclon alloy arms on i had to use fg plastic spacers (fg 7100) to get rid of the gap between the bulkheads

your alloy bulkhead is fg 4497 - as used on marder clones and fg 1/5 and 1/6 race trucks

fg offroaders alloy bulk heads is fg 4496

edit - im not saying the touring car bulkheads dont fit you firehammer - they do,i was saying clones are not 95% interchangable and when trying to add alloy and plastic parts from other makers onto a clone there is always going to be problems - i still cant understand why they have threaded the wishbones you have got - its usually a teflon spacer pushed in there

pic shows fg 7100 - you get a pack with two different sizes

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

The silver bolts and nuts are use for the red ballends. So I think the black ones I see are for the ride height and possibly to hold the arm in if it's threaded. If you have more coming maybe se then. It could have been a mistake. Maybe it's the same threading as the ride height thread??

kiora

Is the hole where the pin is assumed to go through threaded? if so push a short shoulder'd bolt through your bulk heads and wind it in to the req'd depth. with the clearence you have on the inside of the bulkheads between the wishbones, you should easily get a lock nut on them.

http://www.sgmodels.com/details.asp?ID=5952

The super X has the wishbones bolted on I wonder if you are meant to do something similar.

See ya
Col.

radio_controlled_mad

could the small bolts not thread in one side of the wishbone and you add / slot a "fg" wishbone pin at the other end (which is smaller in lengh as used on the clones) unless they bolt up at either end of the wishbones! eitherway you going to have to add a couple of large shimms, i know it sounds stupid but i cant think of any other way of fitting them with the items supplied

chevyman_de

Here comes the solution:
insert the black threaded pin into the rear side of the a-arm, don't forget to use some thread locking compound. Insert the silver bolt through the front bulkhead into the front side of the a-arm, along with a washer, the nylock nut and the thin adjustment nut. The picture shows an assembled unit.
The ball joint will be connected to the a-arm with the stock turnbuckle, the little plastic pins go into the tiny holes beneath the thread for the turnbuckle, they will act as a thread locker.

radio_controlled_mad

seems too much hassle just to fit upper arms - wouldnt it of been easier to get rid of the threads and just use wishbone pins

chevyman_de

The idea behind this system is to get invariably adjustable caster and easier disassembly in case a bolt/hinge pin is bent.

hellya

Thank you chevyman de......... so this is the right way???

I don't see the 2nd black plastic spacer before the rear front bulkhead in your picture, is this needed or can you run without it?

chevyman_de

According to Lauterbacher no second spacer behind the arm, since the adjustment is made by the silver bolt alone. But frankly speaking, since caster adjustment is not very usual for offroad drivers, you can leave the spacer where it is.

hellya

One more question before i get the bottom arms in the mail ....from your picture I see we use no pins at all in mounting the top or bottom arms.

are the bottom arms mounted in the same way?

Canadian_RC

Why on earth would you put aluminum arms on that thing? Plastic is much better.

hellya

Please............ opinions are like buttholes, everyone has one and theirs dont stink.

So chevyman de any answer for me about the lower arms.

chevyman_de

If I remember correctly, contrary to what is shown in the pic from the Lauterbacher website, the lower arms use the stock hinge pins. But I would have to check tomorrow in the shop to be sure.
The pic I shot of the content of delivery shows no bolts for this application, so the chances are 99.9% for the hinge pins.

hellya

O.K.

Thanks for all your help

chevyman_de

Yes, I was right. The lower arms use the stock hinge pins. They have replaceable bushings to guide them.

DBass86Man2

Hey everybody, this isn't very related to what you're discussing, but I need some help.. Anybody ever have the internal gears of the differential and the rough part of the outdrive cups not grip the way they should? Yesterday I was using my Firehammer, and I would notice clicking sounds when hitting rough parts of my yard that made the tires come off the ground and grind when the tires came back down, it sounded like something slipping. Further along it got worse and eventually, it was more like a grinding sound. If I would push down on it to keep the tires from rotating and hit the gas it was just grind away. I know it's not the pinion, spur, transfer, outer diff gear or internal diff gears that's causing the problem because I checked them and none of them are stripped or severely worn. Due to process of elimination I determined the problem was the outdrive cups not gripping the gears when I hit the gas. I ordered the gears and the outdrive cups from tower hobbies, and I pray that solves the problem. Anybody have any advice????

hellya

wow..... I need to shop around alittle bit more, I bought these arms for 55 euros and now I have found a supplier who sells the exact same alloy pieces for 35 euors..... $25 less

MrMikeG

Not like you to pay tooo much!