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A tip for those with alloy uprights.

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A tip for those with alloy uprights.

Old 03-27-2006, 06:34 PM
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jimbo1890
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Default A tip for those with alloy uprights.

This applies to those of us that are running alloy uprights without disc brakes.

It's a good idea to seal up the brake bolt holes on the alloy uprights with silastic or short bolts or whatever as they let sand and grit into the center of the upright.

My rear bearings lasted three tanks[]

Or better yet buy some rear discs
Old 03-27-2006, 07:02 PM
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hndaman1
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

those holes go all the way threw?even on the plastic ones?I have too look on my duratrax alloy hubs, I never thought of that dirt getting in those tiny holes[:@],thanks for pointing that out for us[sm=thumbup.gif]
Old 03-27-2006, 07:45 PM
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SELWA
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

Keep in mind if you need bearing you can use Rollerblade/skateboard bearings (ABEC) They are the same size.
Old 03-27-2006, 09:17 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

No not the plastic ones and yes I'm using my blade bearings ATM
Old 03-27-2006, 09:32 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

really,roller blade wheels are the same?and those are better anyway, they have a better seal then the stocker have on my firehammer too, I will have too look into that tomm after work, and the aluminum hubs for the firehammer DO NOT go all the way threw,but they do go all the way threw where the upper and lower arms get attached.
Old 03-28-2006, 02:07 AM
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brice_arnold
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

ABEC is only a precision rating system for ball bearings. The scale goes from 1-7. The higher the number the more precise the bearing is. If you really want to upgrade your bearing or you are concerned with the bearings getting worn out I would sugest replacing the bearings with double sealed bearings. Most of the bearings the come in these cars are only shielded which keeps out larger dirt particles but lets in the smaller abrasive dust particles. The sealed bearings keep both the dirt and dust out. The easiest way to determine the difference between the two is that a sealed bearing has a Buna or black rubber type plastic on both sides. A shielded bearing has a metal or composite cover over the balls and races.

If you need to replace your bearings but can't get to a hobby shop you can always get them from McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com. Just search for "metric ball bearings" Depending on what features you want from your bearings they can cost anywhere from a couple of dollars all each all the way up to 20$ each

For the smaller bearings Tower Hobbies has a pretty good selection
Old 03-28-2006, 01:00 PM
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carpy100
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

or go to your local scate shop where they will know all there is to know. they will carry all types and quality's.
also they will be much cheaper than hobby shops!
Old 03-28-2006, 04:23 PM
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kengentry5000
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

I tried the local skate and bike shops. I gave them specific dimensions of the bearings and their eyes glazed over. Very frustrating.

I got bearings from an eBay merchant named Access Bearings, Inc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/608-2RS-ABEC-7-S...QQcmdZViewItem

I got excellent service, great bearings and the company sent an order sheet with all sizes we use on these cars. Ten packs sell for $5 - $10.

Ken
Old 03-28-2006, 05:16 PM
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8000ft
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

I know that most of the parts that make up our trucks/cars are specialized however the bearings are not. check it out.
http://www.bearingsdirect.com/produc...=category&id=1

< Message edited by 8000ft -- 3/28/2006 2:21:31 PM >
Old 03-28-2006, 06:11 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

our local sk8 shop has tons of bearing too, and the range in price as well, from 1.00 a bearing up too 8.00 a bearing it all depends on the quality of the bearing you want, and they also have "speed bearings"? which I never of before they said they use those in roller blades.
Old 03-28-2006, 06:30 PM
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hellya
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

hey Jim what brand of upright you using?? cause im lookin at lauterbacher and FG front and rear upright and the only holes the go all the way through are the bolt holes for the bolt that goes through the ball in the rosejoint on the front uprights... rear has no holes at all

It may be that a certain brand does this???
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Old 03-28-2006, 10:13 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

boy we hijacked this thread with bearings well anyway I went back too the mall tonight where our sk8 shop is and was looking at all the brands of bearing etc, and started too ask which was best, I brought in a bearing I had from the firehammer which is a (abec 5 rating) and was asking the kid behind the counter which was the best bearing ,and boy he knew what the abec ratings were etc,for the best set of bearing made(abec 10's) swiss made comes in a pack of 8 were 50.00 at our sk8 shop, I opted for a (abec 7's) for 28.00. which he had 1 of each there too show me and the one that ibought you can take the seal out and clean the bearing and then regrease backup again, I will will run these for abit then post my result in a month of so
Old 03-28-2006, 10:14 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

These uprights were purchased from Krikke in around april 05 and from memory were the Krikke raised uprights. her are a couple of pics note the allan key length Maybe they changed the design for this reason?
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Old 03-28-2006, 10:19 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

boy we hijacked this thread with bearings well anyway I went back too the mall tonight where our sk8 shop is and was looking at all the brands of bearing etc, and started too ask which was best, I brought in a bearing I had from the firehammer which is a (abec 5 rating) and was asking the kid behind the counter which was the best bearing ,and boy he knew what the abec ratings were etc,for the best set of bearing made(abec 10's) swiss made comes in a pack of 8 were 50.00 at our sk8 shop, I opted for a (abec 7's) for 28.00. which he had 1 of each there too show me and the one that ibought you can take the seal out and clean the bearing and then regrease backup again, I will will run these for abit then post my result in a month of so
No mate the thread was about how I killed my bearings so what you posted was relivant and some cool info too. I look forward to hearing how those bearings go[8D]
Old 03-28-2006, 10:23 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

no problem, and these bearing are a pretty black too, all black, they had bearings there that were multicolored,gold,silver,black,almost any color you could imagine, and the prices ranged from 17.50-50.00 for a package of 8 depending on the ratings
Old 03-29-2006, 04:04 AM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

i got fg hubs front and rear and the bolt holes for the brakes do go all the way though
so i got bolts in mine to stop dirt i also put oil in my hubs to keep the bearing lubed
Old 03-29-2006, 07:35 AM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

@ jimbo 1890:
According to your pictures you have the r/h upright installed on the car's l/h side and vice versus. The small "ear" with the second hole for the upper a-arm goes to the inside of the car.

Btw, your uprights are from FG.
Old 03-29-2006, 11:04 AM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

I have FG rear uprights but I gues I never noticed since I put rear Brakes on right away. As for the Bearings, I bought 20 Abec 9 bearings for $20US so I'm good for awhile.
Old 03-29-2006, 09:57 PM
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Default RE: A tip for those with alloy uprights.

@ jimbo 1890:
According to your pictures you have the r/h upright installed on the car's l/h side and vice versus. The small "ear" with the second hole for the upper a-arm goes to the inside of the car.

Btw, your uprights are from FG.
Thanks Chevyman I was not sure if they were Krikke/elcon or FG. As for how I fitted them I must have had too many beers when I fitted them.They seem to work ok as they are so I'll leave them as they are untill I get the Krikke raised diff bulkheads.

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