bigger the better

I was out today running at a local field when I picked up a small stone in one of two breather holes on each side of the egine designed for air intake to the rotor (The only two holes I don't have a screen over [:@]). I heard it and stopped the engine as fast as I could but, it was too late it took off a small piece of one fin (1/2!QUOT! long). Can I run like this without damaging or throwing off the balance of the engine? I saw a post here on someone taking out (a mail box) a major amount of fins but what if you ran with one small missing end of one - Will it hurt? It did'nt end there I also found out that the failsafe in the Spectrum works real well! I thought I had enough room in the receiver box but guess not pulled the antenna out of the box.[:@] Now I have to send it in and Wait so they can install a new one - Cant just solder on a new one with one of these.

Damn, I was having so much fun lately!!!!

8000ft

If that was the only fin that was damaged there is an easy fix. Find the opposing fin and take a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and grind off an equal amount, this will rebalance the fan.

Radio glitches SUCK, I've had my share of them lately. One of them caused a major run away and my truck found the only pile of cinder blocks in the whole field, it hit one, shot straight up and landed on it's lid. Zero damage, I found that my batteries were to low to power the servos but not low enough for a long enough time to trip the fail safe. I guess that I'll just have to keep a closer eye on the batteries state of charge.

mahir

Hi, I was the one who's marder had a affair with a steel fence, I lost about 10 fins on one side and after asking around was told to just shave off all the fins. I have done that and it has actually improved my bottom end performace. I was also told this would happen and I would lose top end, also I should not stay on full throttle for any length of time. Since I only bash, I like the increase in performace at the bottom and and am almost never WOT for any length of time so it works.

Also, I have been told a loss of a single fin or two should not be a problem. But you could just shave off the opposite fin completely to the base of the wheel and shave this off also to the base.

Hope this helps. Btw I have also not had any heating issues yet as all fins on the underside of the rotor are intact. I will let you guys know when I am looking for a new motor though

8000ft

It makes sence to me, less rotational resistance results in quicker spool up. Daves actually has them on sale right now, now if I only had an extra 20.00$ sitting around I would order one and give it a shave. I would love to have a bit quicker punch off the line.

bigger the better

Ok, NOW IM PIS*&D!![:@][:@] I just want to - Sorry, deep breath.sm=redface.gif] I opened up the fan cover to check the broken fin and low and behold I find there is 5 total that have broken all from one small 1/2 inch damn pebble. What really ticks me off is that you know that we are going to be driving in areas OFF ROAD where there are small rocks, how in the heck are we to keep them out? The pebble was too big to enter the front and could'nt because I have the mesh over the pull start area anyway, but there are two large holes in the back that allow entry also.

Sorry for venting.... Now, where can I get a new Rotor for my G260RC1?[&o]

bigger the better

mahir, I remember your post and feel the frustration! I remembered it so well I looked up on the head and found a piece of fin just like the one you saw after posting.

mahir

Bigger, do what I did, take the fan off and just make sure that all the fins on the underside of the rotor are fine, they should be. I have a drill press so I put a small sanding disc on the drill press I believe it was #100 and just sanded all the fins off. It really took about 10-15 mins and looked pretty neat also.

Someone here suggested to get a steering 2 bolt remover to take the flywheel off, that was a really good idea, you may not be able to use the steering removers bolts so I suggest you get two bolts that are long enough to go into the the two holes on the side of the center nut and clamp those in the steering remover, after that its pretty easy to remove the flywheel. Atlest that is what I did.

My issue was similar to yours, I had a broken blade and that on rotation broke the other blades also, ofcourse I had lost the pull start cage, fan holder plate and the pull start ratchet.

If you would like to get the fan then I think R/c nuts has it for about 60 bucks I think. I am just looking to buy a blown up engine and will use that fan, but really its working better now without the blades and like 8000 said I think that is the principle , there is little resistance due to no blades and so you get a good low end. I believe the racers do this also to their motors, this was suggested to me by a racer.


Hope this helps, and do check if there arent any more parts in the cooling fins, a good shake in mine dropped a few and ofcoure the camera picture caught one. I can fully understand how u feel, i could just not leave it alone till I fixed it.

jimbo1890

Mate I can understand your frustration, I'd be pissed too but you'd have to be the unluckiest basher out there. I have read most if not all of the posts on this sub forum and I can't remember that happening to anyone else. Hopefully you have used up your year's supply of bad Karma and the rest of the year will be sweet.

kinggeordie

its never happened to me either if your meshed up i dont see how its gettin in there

J_D

can't u get rocks in thru the front of the body?


bit like the magic bullet for it to get past all the electronics ect ect, and get to ur fan, and then cause all that trouble lol

kinggeordie

its a sealed unit the only thing i can think of its been hiding before you mesh up or its gettin in somehow throgh were the clutch and gear train is

OLD_SLOW and in the WAY

with the marine conversion of the Sikk and the Zenoash rc 260 style engines i take the fins off to the top of the magnet boss. and surprisingly enough thjey still pump a lot of air
using the steering wheel puller you will have to use long metric bolts

8000ft

If I was going to volintarily remove some fins or fin material which side and how much would give the best results? IE snappier throtle response AND still moving enough air to keep the engine cool while it sits at idle as I answer the usual questions.....How fast....Can it go over that..(pointing to a rock the size of a Suburban)...ect

bigger the better

Just FYI, It is not a sealed unit on the RC2601.[&o]
There are four open areas that leed to the rotor fan that rocks can enter and you may have damage and don't know it unless you take off the fan shroud - I did not see any damage from looking when it was on but the rock was stuck in there and after shaking it out one of the fins also fell out. The truck still runs fine and you cannot tell there is anything wrong but, there was.

Open areas found as you look at the pull start:

1 = The right bottom side of the motor. There you will find a large 3/4"x1" hole which the rotor can clearly be seen.
2 = The right top side of the motor. There is a smaller hole neer the head that allows entry.
3 = The left bottom of the motor. There is another large hole 3/4"x1" with a casting bar that runs through it, you can clearly see the rotor.
4 = The left top of the motor just below the carb intake there is a small hole that allows entry.

I believe what happened is I climbed a gravel pile and the rock entered one of the large holes on the bottom of the motor and worked its way through the back fins and chewed up the front fins. Yes, if a pebble bounces in, it can get under the motor and enter in the front as well as the back, look at your Diff cover it gets bashed up from rocks all the time.

I do believe the loss of the front fins will lower the cooling but there is a whole other set in the back don't they do the same?

bigger the better

Do you remember the bolt size for the two holes, I take it there metric?[sm=confused.gif] Going to pull it off tomorrow afternoon after work.[>:]

mahir

Bigger, I got two bolts definately metric now I am not sure if they are M6 or M5.5 but mine are 6 cm long I just took the whole motor to the nut /bolt place and had them find me the bolts. Hope this helps

bigger the better

Wow! 1st time I've had to mess with the motor but, I guess its a good thing. I found out after pulling the rotor that there's alot more to the holes then I first thought. I guess putting screen on the pull start is not the only areas you will suck grass into these things.
Any ideas - Should I silicone on some metal mesh to the rear breathers to keep out debris from the open area behind the rotor?

ammdrew

occasional fin loss is not a big deal, you will not notice a balance issue in a offroader.

IN a MOD we sometimes take the outside fins off, the down side is on a hot day you will overheat the motor and failure in the piston will happen, We do not recommend removing all the fins unless you are looking for that very last bit of speed. As you will defiantly compromise reliability. We run full fins when ever possible.

We do not worry about occasional fin loss on the offroaders, it happens even to onroad cars with no ill effects.

bigger the better

I have a new one coming, I just cant let myself take the chance of a $45.00 part ruin my new motor.
Just for FYI, there is an odd number of fins and they are not accross or equal from one another so, balance cannot be done unless total fin removal is done right?[sm=confused.gif]

J_D

i think what hes saying is that even if its slighly off balance, you won;t notice any big effects

bigger the better

YES.. My new rotor arrived today - Already installed it and getting ready to reassemble the MT!
Ordered the rotor on Sunday the 9th was sent on Monday the 10th and recieved today. That's FAST.
Got it from Horizon Hobby for only $37.99 it totaled $42.98 shipped to my door. [link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ZEN2338RC[/link]
Thanks all for the feedback![sm=thumbup.gif]
Here are a few Ideas if it happens to you....
Use and peice of metal long enough to cover both bolt holes on the rotor, drill three holes larger then the bolts used (Allows for easy line up of holes) Screw two 6m bolts through the outside holes of the plate into the rotor use another bolt with a nut on the back and tighten till rotor pops loose, this takes a small amount of pressure - Took 15min to make and about $.25 cost.