InfernoNoob

Ok i'm having a some issues with installing the throttle bar to my server horn!


1. First of all, do you use thread lock on all the screws connecting to the server horn?

2. the screw that goes through the metal cap, and the washer and the plastic piece...do you first put that through the server horn upside down and then through the other pieces?

bigger the better

Yes, put LockTight on ALL metal to metal contacts. You should not need to use it for the main screw into the servo tho that should come wtih a lock washer from stock. I would recommend getting a alloy arm to limit the stress - I need to do that. Not sure I understand what you mean on the 2nd one but, here are a few pisc.

J_D

maybe he means steering servo

InfernoNoob

b_t_better,

yes that pic you sent was perfect, on the left part of the server horn: http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...36/Xv65259.jpg

Well I bought a aluminum servo horn, and main screw doesn't seem to be going through the horn.....


btw what make is your servo horn? does it fit your servo properly or is it using an adaptor? Joe S. told me to avoid getting one with an adapter...

bigger the better

The screw may be metric or standard or not the right teeth - You may need to get a different screw.

on the servo horn, since it was plastic I drilled it out to fit the screw. You will need to buy the horn that fits the brand servo you have. That one is a JR servo so I baught a JR arm. The main difference will be the servo horn size and they still will be tight to get on. I would'nt use an adapter either...

InfernoNoob

ok i got the screw to go through the server horn...fewf!

ok you know that plastic pipe piece for the throttle, I have to leave a little gap inbetween the screws right so that it can swivle back and forth as the server horn moves about...correct?

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

yes you never want to over tighten any linkages or make them bind up .. sounds like you got ..
Good Luck

InfernoNoob

well in the official manual they have like 3 washers on the bottom, it seems bigger-the-better has 1 washer and he added another one (seel the left side: http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...36/Xv65259.jpg)

i don't have a spare washer, but I do have a plastic type washer ...think i can use that one? I can put the plastic type washer on the bottom, so the real washer will be connected to the platic pipe piece...just in case it is better to have a metal piece touching the platic pipe so it can swivel around....

bigger the better

I think you are using a DX3 - This servo will need to be reversed to work. Here are some photos of what it will look lise in full throttle and brake.

bigger the better

The bottom nut is made flared and looks like a washer but is not. The screw will go threw the servo arm and a nut will securely fasten it to the arm so it won't fall out or loosen. A washer goes on top so the plastic fitting can swivel freely. The plastic arm goes on with the long end facing the engine. You will then add the nylon lock nut on top and tighten it lightly to keep all of it together but not to touch the plastic arm. If it is too tight binding will occure.

InfernoNoob

thanks for the photos...maybe i'll take a snapshot of mine to show you guys what's going on!

bigger the better

Thats a great idea! I always say a picture is worth a thousand words!

InfernoNoob

Ok here are some pictures:

Setup at Idle:



Servo Idle:


Full throttle:


Full Break:



releasing after full break: (notice the gap between the end piece and the plastic pipe...that is causing the throttle lever to NOT return back to idle..and the spring is not strong enough to push it back!!!)


release after full break again:

bigger the better

Your spring setting is too tight. There should be no tension on the spring at idle - Should be able to spin it - Need to back that off. Undo the set screw on the spring side and see if it works without it set up (tight), if it does work you just need to set the last stop gromet just touching the spring at idle. That is waht I see being your main problem in the set up. Do double check that the stress did not strip out the servo horn - The spectrum comes with a metal geared high torque servo and a high speed servo you will want to use the metal topped high torque servo. If you are using the high speed it has a plastic top and you may have stripped it.[] Double check. Good Luck[sm=thumbup.gif]

Picture below showes spring at idle.

tizdaz

if you want a little tip....

in the pic above you see a piece of yellow fuel tubing.. replace it with nitro fule tubing, Nitro fuel tubing is alot softer & has alot more give

With the gas fuel tubing (which is hard) as soon i touhced the brakes the wheels would near enuff lock, with nitro fuel tubing its alot softer & has more travel & now when i do the brakes i have alot more control

InfernoNoob

i think the problem is that the spring is not pushing the lever back to idle position. for some reason, the metal rode that contols the throttle is not moving about as it should, maybe the plastic piple that the rod goes through is sitting too low, and thus is a little strained which causes the rod to move but with more friction???

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

The Throttle "rod" may be bent alittle as well, it should move smothly through the little plastic piece. Make sure the 2 Nuts on either side of it arent to snug against the plastic piece or it wont be able to swivel freely

bigger the better

Your linkage is snagging - The spring looks nifty and insures the rod go back but, the rod should go back to idle without it. The carb has its own spring on the left side when looking towards the back of your truck, this will pullthe linkage to idle as well - If the linkage is bent or snagging some where it will not go back. You should be able to pull back on the rod (throttle) and move it back and forth and the carb pull it back to idle.


rctruckz - Ya, the tubing was the wrong size to fit my fuel set up and did'nt want to just throw it. Its just for looks covering the rods.

bigger the better

I was just thinking, did you tighten the two grommets that hold the rod to the throttle linkage too tight they need to be loose this will also bind the linkage and not let it goto idle.[sm=idea.gif]

InfernoNoob

my throttle bar is bent a bit, thats ok right?

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

My throttle rod is bent as well, but it looks to be bent just to clear the stock exhaust. That bend should be allright, a bend closer to the servo could cause binding issues.Like stated above, even without the spring on the linkage, the throttle should go back to idle. If it isnt, something is not set up right.

InfernoNoob

ok i figured it out! (still didn't fix it, but i know the problem)

If i take the plastic pipe piece out, and I pull on the throttle linkage bar, it snaps back to idle just fine. If I put the plastic piece where it WOULD have been on the servo horn, all is good again, the throttle linkage bar shoots right back to idle. BUT, whenever I actually place it on the screw on the servo horn, and then I try and pull on the linkage it is not smooth at all. SO, what is happening is the servo horn and thus the screw are not at the right angle. Say the screw is leaning in on direction, when you place the plastic pipe piece with the linkage through it back on the servo horn...it causes the linkage to bend upwards/downwards/left/right and thus it creates friction and the linkage won't snap back to the idle position. Does this make sense?

I have no idea how to fix this though, maybe if I band the linkage bar but I'm not sure I want to mess that up just yet hehe.

arghhhhh!

bigger the better

What you could do is unassemble the horn, take a drill bit one size larger then the hole in the horn now and drill it out, then take the screw and place it from underneath and use a second nut to tighten it to the servo horn. This will allow the screw to be strait - It must have screwed threw the horn at an angle. This setup would be just like using a plastic horn like the picture I posted before.
The second idea you could do is carefully screw the screw through the next hole in, trying to keep it strait.
Good luck!

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

i think i've located you're problem !!
that plastic linkage is upside down and backwards !! the long part of the linkage should face towards the gromet to accellerate ! take a look in you're servo idle pic !! and also you want it too face too the outside as well , but you might need to go in one hole ..
thats my take !!
Good luck

bigger the better

No, he's got it set up per manufactures rec's / pics. I think the screw went through the servo horn crooked to the front or back causing it to bind.