JQuest64

I bought some FG hop up parts, rear lower and upper arms and the like for my MT.

**Start Rant**

Why is it that the instructions seem pretty useless?

Anyone buy any of their aluminum parts? I was pretty disappointed with the quality. Even the hardware it comes with is pretty poor.
For example, the bolt that comes with the lower arms to mount the shocks is too short. The bolt never bottoms out, and if you try to tighten it, you bind the shocks. It is also too short to run all the way through the arm and through bolt.
Basically, it is as useless as the instructions, and if used would likely fall out the first run.
It also seems that if I want to get the lower arms to the same length as the original plastic ones, I will be about two or three threads from having the adjuster falling out. I do not want to leave it like that as it will likely strip or break pretty quickly.
So I will basically have to shorten the distance between the wheels, and make my MT more susceptible to roll overs. Not what I had in mind when I thought Hop up part.
IMO, FG MT owners should steer clear of the FG aluminum, unless I am doing something wrong.

Anyone have pics, or info on how their FG parts installed on an MT?

**End Rant**

hpiguy

I own two FGs and some hop ups for both.

The instructions ARE deplorable.
FG knows they are horrible, they just don't care.

When they start losing business to HPI and the other manufacturers that will make 1/5th scales now ( you just know since the HPI is a hit AE, Losi will make buggies and trucks and Traxxas will revamp the MB) maybe they'll do something.

Automan

Yes the instructions most of the time stinks.... not that there are much instructions with anything, not that i noticed anyways And it's same with others like elcon etc. Anyways, it's not very hard to figure out things, so no big deal.

Should say on every package with hoopup stuff: "You are on your own" You pay allot of money and don't get any help with assembling those things.. great [sm=thumbup.gif]

JQuest64

While not hard to figure out, getting them to go together properly is a whole other thing. I think the big problem lies in trying to make one part fit so many models. While these may fit great into a Marder, they are not fitting in the MT all that well.
The rod that holds the lower arm into the bulk head will not go all the way through so you can only snap one c-clip on, I guess the work around for this was grub screws to hold the arm onto the rod. Simply does not seem very reliable to me, and that is not right especially when made by the original manufacturer. Then a screw included that cannot mount the shocks properly? Very poor.

While it has been my experience in the hobby, like you stated, most instructions are pretty poor.
However, they usually go together in a manner that makes you feel confident it will stay together. I do not have that feeling at all with these FG parts.

Automan

Yes, but i cant say that much about fg's hoopups as i only have the gear plate and the diff holder by fg and they fit just fine, all the rest stuff are elcon and those are VERY nice

Sure not all stuff fit's may fit perfect maybe, but i think many in here feels that that's more like a charm with having a big scale, to mod stuff and make stuff your self, i know i do

Not all can be so nice and easy as building a tamiya kit you know I just love tamiya kit's [sm=thumbup.gif]

JQuest64

While I do agree half the fun is making your rig your own, when buying a part from the original manufacturer I expect it to fit properly. Especially at critical points, given the price you pay for them.
They should also add to your confidence level in the rig, not take away from it.

Time to bust out the dremel and screw bags, and make it work.

Automan

That's the right spirit [sm=thumbup.gif] Go for it, and good luck !

caad5

Jquest in order to have the lower arms the same distance out as the plastic ones you need to purchase the longer FG adjusting screws. I have converted my MT into full alloy using all the FG alloy parts front and back and everything fit perfectly. The only extra I had to buy that didnt come with the relevant part was longer adjusting screws as above and also longer pins that hold the rear alloy upright to the rear lower wishbone because the alloy parts have a white washer insert at every hole in the upright and lower wishbone joint and a longer pin is needed. Which is actually the same pin that holds the rear upper wishbone to the rear shock tower and diff mount. Hope this helps.

JQuest64

Caad5, that helps alot. I had no idea they made a longer adjusting screw. Again, a simple note in the instruction sheet would have made this much easier. I already found a work around for the hinge pin.
Thanks for the heads up.