mookins

Firstly, what does FG stand for exactly? something Giant?

Secondly, I am new to 1/5th scale. I just bought a second hand car to use as my university project. Developing a traction control and ABS braking system (using electromagnetic actuated disc brakes on all fours), along with an alternator to power the whole system. I will be making all the plans available for anyone who wants to build it when we are done

Anyway, regarding 1/5th scale, I am just after some pointers on where to buy stuff? I am in Australia but I don't mind ordering internationally. I am basically after some wheels and tyres currently. I am also trying to source some K&N filters. Perhaps someone can suggest a good online store with them?

Also I had a question regarding the exhaust header. Does the length of this make much difference or is it once it hits the tuned exhaust part that the length matters? I ask this because i need to reroute the exhaust to one side of the car to get the alternator and electrics to fit. Also, is titanium a good exhaust material because when I fabricate a new header, this will be the material of choice. I can't see why it wouldn't be, but just in case someone has heard or knows something I don't.

-Mikey

propjets4me

Hey mookins, welcome to the club, first off FG ( i think) are taken from the owners name , his initals are FG..I always said it stands for "freakin good" as for spares the main FG guy in Australia is chequered flag racing up in Brissy, but there are other places that stock some spares like alro racing

http://www.alroracingaustralia.com.au/

the last few days I haven't been able to get into the chequered flag racing site so either it's down or he gave it up..I'm not really sure which but heres the old addy

http://www.chequeredflagracing.com/

interesting projects as for the abs and traction control, so good luck with it..as with using titanium, sounds like a bit of over kill, but hey, if it's there you might aswell use it, as for the header usually in an engine a long header is for lowerer rpm motors short headers work more with higher RPM engines , if only a small difference I wouldn't worry, if it's a dramatic change in length might start dogging down the engine a bit

J_D

i think FG stands for franz groeshel or something :P

SELWA

My Feedback: (1)

Yes FG stands for Franz Groschl (manager- owner I believe) and I think his wife is in the Accounts department - Renate Groschl. I also think I read somewhere that his brothers works in the manufacturing department.

mookins

Ah well if FG is a brand, then I don't have an FG lol. I just have a Laro 1/5th scale. Not sure if they even exist anymore. Got it from a friends friend. Runs not bad. All I care is that I can break traction while stopping and taking off so I can test my ABS and traction control systems. I have always wanted 1/5th scale though. We just got a medium mill at work so I can make some of my own parts, but complex stuff like wheels I really need at least a rotary table, and preferably CNC also. That's one thing though that has lured me to 1/5th. Being able to build anything yourself. But the cost was always prohibitive, until now.

My current plans are now to develop a new braking system. I am thinking of ditching the cable pull brakes and make an electromagnetically actuated disc brake for each wheel seperately (since we are hoping that stability control will be a good postgrad project if we ever get that far, and individual wheel braking is crucial for that according to our theory). If electromagnetically actuated braking involves too much power to get the necessary braking, I might go with hydraulic, but still use electromagnetic actuators (just use commercial solenoids though) for the hydraulics. If that still fails, perhaps hydraulic with four mini servos, one per wheel. TowerHobbies have plenty of cheap ones I can get mailed over. I got my HPI from there in fact.

Other plans, are to relocate the exhaust as I have mentioned so that there is a large open space for electronics and the alternator.
Thanks for the tips about exhaust length. Is there anyway to offset the length problem, say make it thinner or wider as your increase/decrease length? Baffles even to make it appear shorter?

http://www.mookins.com/car/Picture%20001%20(Medium).jpg
That's how the exhaust is currently.

http://www.mookins.com/car/Exhaust%20Routing%20Idea.jpg
That's how I was thinking. Any ideas or comments?

Also for fun, I might move the air intake to the front, something like this:
http://www.speedsociety.de/pictures/.../thumbs/91.jpg
Just have to build it so it doesn't get beaten up when (I say when and not if, haha) prang it.
I plan to get one of the small K&N filters. They are so awesome. I love 1/5th scale LOL.

Anyway, I am about to brew up some more brake ideas. Please leave comments and/or ideas if yo have any folks. Thanks a lot.

-Mikey

mookins

One other thing, how much should the sway bar coupling coefficient be typically? Up front on this car, its nearly 100%. In fact, from what I can see mechanically it was designed that way, but the plastic gives a tiny bit so there is a slight bit of independance from the two front wheels. On the rear, visible in the pictures at http://mookins.com/car/, the U-link is very very stiff and doesn't give much whatsoever.

What kinda coupling are you guys running?

-Mikey

mookins

I also have to build a new fuel tank to free up some room. The list goes on and on. Hehe. Just use stainless steel shet for that. Anything I should be aware of?\

-Mikey

jkulhanek

Be careful not to make that thing too heavy!