borley1863

Hi, i have taken my car car apart for a good clean, anyway i get to the transmission and it`s been a nightmare.
First bearings wouldn`t comme off (as you can see the remainder of one in the pic on the main shaft), now i can`t work out the distance between the diff gear brake hub and the spur gear, how do you work this out it`s doing my head in as its taking all afternoon
is there an easy way to install the transmission step by step.

Thanks for any info

Guy

crv

My Feedback: (1)

Well one step at a time...As far as what's left of the bearing is concerned....If you really want to remove that inner race quickly and without going crazy; just get a Dremel tool and cut thru the inner race til you almost touch the shaft, on two sides....(careful go slow as to not mar the shaft surface at all, but if accidently so ...it will be a minimum).......then with a vise grip apply pressure onto the cuts you've made with the dremel, and whalla!!!the race splits open!!!!try that then the next step as far as the tranny distance solution you'll also get on another post reply. I'm sure you'll get solutions galore here!!!![8D]

8000ft

Pull the lay shaft gear off and the assembly will come off of the engine, then either cut the race off or put the shaft in a vise so that the race sits on the vise with no pressure on the shaft and pound down on the shaft.
when reassembling leave the brake square grub screws loose and the lay shaft gear screws loose untill the assembly is back on the engine, then you can adjust them and tighten. ( don't forget to use blue thread-lock on all metal-to-metal screws)

hope this helps

borley1863

You two are great i want your children erm...... sorry you know what i mean i am so grateful!

The only problem i have come across now is that the layshaft gear and brake block are so tight even with grub screws loose i only seem to be able to adjust them with the shaft off, when its in place i cant get enough leaverage to move the layshaft gear as its tight as you know what!

8000ft

I had the same problem, pull the gear off and rub some sand paper or a green scrubby over the shaft to clean it up a bit. Then a touch of oil on it and every thing should slide as smooth as you know what.

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

I have done this tear-down a few times

My brake block grub screws are 'cammed out' so I can't remove it anymore. I remove the layshaft gear to get the layshaft out of the large engine mount. This is best done with the large engine mount removed from the engine. Then you can get the shaft into a vise or something like that. You can punch the shaft through the gear to get the gear off.

Unscrew the layshaft gear grubs and then you may need to press or punch out the shaft. Threadlock stuff gets between the shaft flats and the gear making it tough to get off. Once you get the gear off scrape off the thread lock stuff before reinstalling gear.

As for spacing... I start from layshaft gear and work my way over. If your brake block is still on the shaft then you will have to put the shaft back through the large engine mount (with the bearing in the mount) and the spacer and then you can put the gear on. You will want to line the 'shoulder' of the gear with the inside line of the 'lip' on the end of the layshaft. You can go ahead and crank down the gear grubs with threadlock. There are three flats and three grubs. Mentally number them 1, 2 and 3. Line up the grub screws/holes with the flats. Tighten number 1 WITHOUT treadlock (to start). Using threadlock hand-tighten number 2 as tight as you can without stripping the hex hole. Next, go back to number 1 and using threadlock this time, hand-tighten as tight as you can without stripping the hex hole. Now for number 3 you want to get it tight (don't forget the threadlock) but not as tight as number 1 and 2. The idea here is that you don't want numbers 1 and 3 to fight each other for grip. Wipe off excess threadlock solution. You are finished with the layshaft gear.

Put the layshaft back through the large engine mount with the spacer between the layshaft gear and the cartidge bearing in the large engine mount. If the brake block is still mounted on the shaft tighten up it's grub screws (using threadlock if you can get the screws out). I don't have a good mental image of the spacing on this (sorry). Then you will put the gear plate back on the shaft with it's cartridge bearing and its spacer. Last slide on the spur carrier and spur gear. Test fit the e-clip here to ensure it fits snugly against the spur gear but not so snug you can't get the clip in place. You can pull the spur, spur carrier and gear carrier plate off for the moment if it will make getting the large engine mount reattached.

After you have the layshaft assembly back together you can put the large engine mount (with everything hanging from it) back on.

If you need new bearings there is an eBay merchant that sells them inexpensively and has great service. His eBay store is called Access Bearings. You can buy just about all the car's bearings in 10 packs from this guy. You may need to track down the 'series' number by searching for the ID and OD of the bearing. You could also probably shoot him an email with the bearing dimensions and he could hook you up with the 'series' numbers.

Ken

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

On the Firehammer the layshaft bearings are 10mm x 19mm x 5mm which are 6800 series bearings. 6800-2RS for rubber shields. 6800ZZ for steel sides. I used the rubber shielded ones. I don't know how the rubber will hold up - guess I will find out in time.

borley1863

Thanks for all the help everyone i have had it apart before , just made the mistake of dimantleing the transmission this time, wish we had proper instructions with this bloody thing.
Thanks
Guy

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

You would think that after 15 years of relatively the same model (Marder and variations of the Marder) that FG would have good assembly and maintenance docs. [:@]

For my Duratrax Evader (electric truck) and Firehammer the only worthwile document I have is the exploded diagram.

This forum provides the rest of the know-how.

j.hamp

maybe some one should send there truck to the good people at HAYNES and let them prepare a repair manual.