The-Nibs 26cc Zen with ESP work and X-can.
09-03-2006, 12:32 AM
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The-Nibs 26cc Zen with ESP work and X-can.
Ok, Mailman was good today, he dropped off the Goodies from Daves Discount Motors. First I want to say THANK-YOU again to Brad over at Daves. Great Person to work with.
now on to the Goodies.
got here about 2:05pm, had the roll cage off the buggy at 2:15pm. lol
though the motors are ALMOST identical, three are a few things you ll need to know before you go dropping a zen in.
First is you ll need to swap the pull/air housing off your CY and use it on the Zen. the Zens clutch housing and pull starter houseing have just a bit longer nubs on the bottom that sits on the chassis. They cause the engine to set about a 1/16th to 1/8th in to high when installed. swapping to the CY pull housing solves this issue.
Also note, the spacer between the chassis and the stock CY clutch houseing, will not work in the Zen in place. 3 doors you can choose here.
door 1 is cutting the nub on the bottom of the Zen clutch houseing to be a bit shorter. Door number 2 is using the CY cluch houseing. I opted for door number 3 here, found a piece of metal i filed a bit off of and made a new spacer. it allows for the Zens clutch houseing and longer mounting nub fit in properly without sitting to high.
do these to things before you try to swap the engine, and you will save a few hrs time.
now its pretty basic from there. pull the slipper/brake assembly, pull the CB assembly, undo the upper parts like the roll cage, side braces, exhaust. ect. set all your parts aside. you should not need to remove the gas tank, but we did. once your engine is in the open, flip it upside down, and start removeing the bottom motor mounts. once you pull the old motor, swap parts and then your ready to put the new Zen in. put them in reverse startign with the bottom engine mounting bolts, dont forget the new thinner spacer under the clutch housing. ( side note. you can take the stock spacer, and Grind or Cut off the thickness of one ends flange pice. that will give you the correct height as well). Now when you put the bolt back in the clutch houseing, you will also note the bolt now will need to go into the Innermost hole. (not the outter most hole. that is for the CY clutch houseing.) Once you have this done, start adding your motor mount back bolts and then the clutch assembly, the brake/spur assembly. and finish putting the front braces back on.
once your buggy is reassembled, be sure to check all your bolts for tighness. dont forget locktight on metal non nut places like the motor mount bolts on the bottom.
first start went like this, prime, choke, pull 2 times to fire, unchoke, pull 3 times to running. Needed to do a lil adjustment on the throatle linkages as one of hte linkage stops was now hitting the throatle tab. this is cuz of the clutch housing beign a bit different. i just readjusted the stop about 1/4 inch. working fine!!!!!
heres some pics of the goods and work. we did a near full teardown, and added the metal gear servo for steering, and redid the diff fluid. What a differeance it is, will be doing mine tomorrow night.
Killer new stickers.
New Rear Exit X-Can
Some strange markings on the side of the case.
The Victim
Breakdown
Added some of my secret covering to keep the big stuff out. works like a charm.
Engine In
Rest of the gear, gas tank, radio box, set up ect..
First Run.
Hmm what are these Strange Tracks here.
this is about 10 feet behind just seconds after the gas was touched.
still some residue.
After the first run.
Took a lil Vid, but itll be a day before i put it up.
any questions please ask, we had it together and appart four or five times today.lol
Timmah
now on to the Goodies.
got here about 2:05pm, had the roll cage off the buggy at 2:15pm. lol
though the motors are ALMOST identical, three are a few things you ll need to know before you go dropping a zen in.
First is you ll need to swap the pull/air housing off your CY and use it on the Zen. the Zens clutch housing and pull starter houseing have just a bit longer nubs on the bottom that sits on the chassis. They cause the engine to set about a 1/16th to 1/8th in to high when installed. swapping to the CY pull housing solves this issue.
Also note, the spacer between the chassis and the stock CY clutch houseing, will not work in the Zen in place. 3 doors you can choose here.
door 1 is cutting the nub on the bottom of the Zen clutch houseing to be a bit shorter. Door number 2 is using the CY cluch houseing. I opted for door number 3 here, found a piece of metal i filed a bit off of and made a new spacer. it allows for the Zens clutch houseing and longer mounting nub fit in properly without sitting to high.
do these to things before you try to swap the engine, and you will save a few hrs time.
now its pretty basic from there. pull the slipper/brake assembly, pull the CB assembly, undo the upper parts like the roll cage, side braces, exhaust. ect. set all your parts aside. you should not need to remove the gas tank, but we did. once your engine is in the open, flip it upside down, and start removeing the bottom motor mounts. once you pull the old motor, swap parts and then your ready to put the new Zen in. put them in reverse startign with the bottom engine mounting bolts, dont forget the new thinner spacer under the clutch housing. ( side note. you can take the stock spacer, and Grind or Cut off the thickness of one ends flange pice. that will give you the correct height as well). Now when you put the bolt back in the clutch houseing, you will also note the bolt now will need to go into the Innermost hole. (not the outter most hole. that is for the CY clutch houseing.) Once you have this done, start adding your motor mount back bolts and then the clutch assembly, the brake/spur assembly. and finish putting the front braces back on.
once your buggy is reassembled, be sure to check all your bolts for tighness. dont forget locktight on metal non nut places like the motor mount bolts on the bottom.
first start went like this, prime, choke, pull 2 times to fire, unchoke, pull 3 times to running. Needed to do a lil adjustment on the throatle linkages as one of hte linkage stops was now hitting the throatle tab. this is cuz of the clutch housing beign a bit different. i just readjusted the stop about 1/4 inch. working fine!!!!!
heres some pics of the goods and work. we did a near full teardown, and added the metal gear servo for steering, and redid the diff fluid. What a differeance it is, will be doing mine tomorrow night.
Killer new stickers.
New Rear Exit X-Can
Some strange markings on the side of the case.
The Victim
Breakdown
Added some of my secret covering to keep the big stuff out. works like a charm.
Engine In
Rest of the gear, gas tank, radio box, set up ect..
First Run.
Hmm what are these Strange Tracks here.
this is about 10 feet behind just seconds after the gas was touched.
still some residue.
After the first run.
Took a lil Vid, but itll be a day before i put it up.
any questions please ask, we had it together and appart four or five times today.lol
Timmah
09-03-2006, 07:36 AM
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RE: The-Nibs 26cc Zen with ESP work and X-can.
looks good dude, i look forward to seeing your video
is the power increase alot? i'm installing that baja x-can on my 29cc chrome engine for my mcd so would like to know how it handles?
is the power increase alot? i'm installing that baja x-can on my 29cc chrome engine for my mcd so would like to know how it handles?
