thefunkyhobbit

Hi, I need a bit of advice from all you pros please.
Over the past few weeks of wet muddy running at my track a couple of our FG offroad cars have ran away!!!.
The throttle failsafes had no effect because the causes were both water in the servos and a mechanical lock up on a carb.

After waterproofing the servos adequately I am still worried about cars running off.

I am looking for a device that will connect up to the 3rd channel on my RX,and work in conjunction with the existing engine/shorting to earth Kill switch.
If things go pear shaped I can flick my TX switch and kill the motor.

Thanks,Mark

Timmahh

use a servo, and install an on/off switch or a momentary switch that you can use the servo to activate.
Timmahh

radio_controlled_mad

a device like this you mean

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4782194

i got mine from ebay germany but notice hobbytek is also selling the same idea if you scroll down the start page

http://www.rc-car-online.de/htstarteng.htm

RCWA

Check this out: http://www.rcatsystems.com/cube/inde...od&productId=4 You can shut the engine off with your reciever and as long as you connect the ignition to the normally closed side of the relay the engine will also be killed if you lose power.

JRexA

I have the one from http://www.tune-fg.de and that one works fine for me.
I have the Remote Kill only, no built in failsafe in case the RC signal dies, but as I have Failsafe funktions on all channels on my Nomadio Sensor, I just use the built in Sensor Failsafe.
It also works as a failsafe in case of a total power loss. (Broken battery lead or something like that)

I have heard some reports that people have problem with those type of Failsafes and Spektrum Systems.

thefunkyhobbit

Thanks for the help guys, The Rcat system is exactly what I require.a TX operated engine shut down rather than a fail safe.
Regards,Mark

borley1863

so what happens if you get water in the receiver lol

thefunkyhobbit

My RX box on my Leopard is totaly watertight upto a depth of 12" at least.
It comes from me racing 80MPH rc hydroplanes, they regularly submarine,LOL!!

Dave ESPI

Product Information
The RC-100X is an expanded version of the RC-100. This compact electronic switch can be configured in either a Normally Open or Normally Closed position. Simply plug the switch into an open channel of your R/C receiver and control your applications. Typical applications are ignition kills, magneto shut off, lights, etc. The RC-100X consumes very low power, and has a high current carrying capacity (Capable of 5 amps at 30V!)

*** Please note: The RC-100 Series of switches was originally intended to operate at 5V with 4 cell receiver packs. Some customers are using 6V packs on their receivers, of which on a full charge, can exceed 7V. We do not recommend running the switch above approximately 6V. The max rating of the switch is somewhere near 6.5V. If you are using this at 6V and experiencing issues, please contact us and we will help remedy it. ***

That R cat seems to be the way to go, but I wonder how it works with the DX3 and the packs we utelize since we run way more power.

They sell a 110x version that runs up to 10 amps, perhaps this ?

PBJT

I used a bit of wire, a quality sealed toggle switch, a servo and wire. Take a look at the picture. I pulled out the factory switch lengthend the wires and simple.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ss29/fg002.jpg

PBJT

Dave ESPI

PBJ, so you removed the kill switch (*small yellow button on the pullstart housing) and made a bracket to hold a toggle, drilled a hole in it and set up a servo to throw it with the third channel button.

Simple and effective. I like it I may make somethign similar, but only problem is it still relies on power from the pack... right ?

part-time

My Feedback: (1)

i use one of these http://www.dimensionengineering.com/BattleSwitch.htm . if anybody wants pics how to hook one up lmk and ill post some

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

The PicoSwitch also looks suitable for a kill switch and may be smaller so it could be place in many locations. You could probably put this type of kill switch in the RX box and run its leads to the ignition wiring.

PBJT

Yes it still requires power from the main power pack, It will give me engine cut for many unforsee-able reasons but you are right if I have truck battery feed failure it will do no good. I use it every time just to turn the truck engine off aswell. Also if you put it in a river/pond you can shut it down before you suck in the water Since most of our local parks include water of some sort.

PBJT

part-time

My Feedback: (1)

thats what i did. as for power loss issues a simple return spring on the throttle servo.

RC_chaos

Hey, guys. Check this out. [link=http://www.quarterscalecar.com/shop/index.php/action/item/id/255/prevaction/category/previd/3/prevstart/0/]Kill Switch[/link]

I installed one of these in my MCD Baja 1000 and it works perfectly. I can kill the engine from the 3rd channel button on my transmitter. It also functions as a failsafe kill switch if the transmitter loses contact with the vehicle. The cost was $39.99.

I hope this helps.

ScooterTrash

[:-] I would keep an eye with with the cell receiver packs! Mine when fully charged top out over 6.5v's[:@]

ScooterTrash

Hi part-time, that is a good one![sm=thumbup.gif] You don't have to worry about the v's at all! I like it & would leave the manual switch on there & just leave it alone & just wire it up![sm=teeth_smile.gif]

looker2756

Thats how we are hooking up the ones RC_chaos is refering to. We run the wires inside the pullstart & solder to the push button switch connectors. This way you can use the transmitter to shut it down, but still have the manual switch as well. It is very cool with the body on to be able to pull up after your done running & shut it down with the remote. I can get to my reciever power switch with body on, but kill switch is a bit high up & hard to get to, especially when hot. But you can turn the reciever off fairly easy. It's nice to not remove the body every time shutting down, along with the safety features it allows.

whizzy

hi i run the cbe killswitch on my mcd baja and i have never had any issues with it yet it is good piece of mind that if my transmitter loses any signal it kills the engine and i can also kill the engine from my transmitter too if there is any issues and you can get them from rodger at fgbaja and spares in the uk he does the cbe and the ams killswitch

[link=http://www.fgandbajaspares.co.uk/index.php?cPath=9_15]killswitch [/link]

Dave ESPI

I decided to go with this one as it is small, and prewired to go and splice right in with the existing kill switch button fot use on my MT5 ( see..... Baja and FGMT's can live in Harmony together afterall..... LOL )



The CBE Baja Kill Switch utilizes the 3rd channel on your radio (including the stock radio)to switch on and off the engine from the transmitter. The Kill Switch also has an inbuilt automatic failsafe function that will cut the engine, after a delay of approx 1 second, if the transmitters signal becomes weak or interrupted. Once the signal becomes strong again, the engine is allowed to fire again. The small LED indicator will let you know the status of the switch so there is no confusion if its on or not. The Kill Switch is compatible with the Stock Radio, Spektrum and other radio's.

You can use the switches built-in failsafe or you can use your RX's failsafe if using a higher-end radio system.

Works with any large scale gas engine that has a kill switch. The Kill Switch does not replace the existing physical switch. Both switches can work together. Prevent damage to yourself, your car, and the people around you

I got it for like 40.00 from Python.

whizzy

thats the chappie i run on my mcd baja very good switch