itsnotskidding

hi..

i use to work in a hobby shop but left to work elsewhere, but i still get my discount..hehe
now i like the baja but what do i have to do with it to run it in??... i am a total savage speed freak and drifting are all i no about, but a 23cc engine.. wow.. i gotta try it, i can get mine for £650 rtr.. (does it come as a kit??)
no i never keep anything stock but what are the upgrades like, i have spoken to hpi and they are a little shy about it to be honest, im used to 4wd apart from my evo rush.. (rear drive) so is it going to be able to survive in the counrtyside??.. i live on a farm and will only part with my $$$ if i think it will live a happy life, the grounds are very wet, muddy, very bumpy and a few high mounds of cattle pooh....lol, i realy need advice weather it will take some punishment, i no a little bout it but i need the pro advice .....

cheers guys..

broncobill

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The baja can take a pretty good beating. It comes RTR. The engine does not have to be broken in like a nitro. Just take it easy for the first tank of fuel. It is a two stroke engine, so you will have to mix oil and fuel together. It's only been out for about six monthes, but parts are getting easier to find. Since I got my Baja, I have not even started any of my nitros. I think you will be very happy with a Baja.

original.mb

the baja comes rtr and is a great ride to get into largescale r/c. the 23cc is more than apple power and unlike nitros is a dream to start and maintain. the baja is well engineered and built for serious bashing, has good suspension travel and handles good over bumbpy surfaces. hopups are being manufactured as we speak and there a already a few different companys with stuff out. theres alot of baja guys on here that can give you a real in depth look into the baja + if you do a search theres some great vids + jumping videos etc. one of the guys to talk to would be 'timmah' as he has really tricked his baja out and knows more than most what its capable of

ScooterTrash

Hi crash_alot, If you go gas you won't go back! You asked "but what do i have to do with it to run it in??..." Like broncobill said, "Just take it easy for the first tank of fuel." They are easy to tune & then you can forget, not like Nitro's allway's tuning[:@]. Here is an easy way, BEFORE YOU START:
Before you start to tune your engine there are a couple of basic things that you should check first. Firstly make sure that your spark plug is in good condition. You do this by simply screwing it out of the cylinder and checking it, if the electrode looks too oiled up then change it as it will make things a lot easier. Most plugs come with the gap pre set but it won’t hurt to check to make sure its right .025, Secondly make sure you have enough fuel as it soon runs low with all that testing and revving, also make sure that your filter is on nice and secure with no possibility of air leaks. And lastly make sure your batteries are nice and charged. Let us begin!. Some people say no break in, but I would & did. BASIC CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT: & Break In
I would not use a synthetic oil until after break-in, the following is how I broke in my FG:
1. Heat cycle the engine about 3 times (start it, let it warm up, then cut it off and allow it to cool.)
2. Now you can run it, do not run the truck at full throttle, apply the throttle in and out, at this point you want to vary the load on the engine no more then 1/4 throttle, (Do this for the first two tanks of fuel, you can get a little more aggressive on the second tank, but do not hold the truck at full throttle).
3. After the 2nd tank you can let her rip! Idle RPM 4000RPM+or-300RPM (H) is1.3/8 +or-1/4 & (L) is1.1/4 +or-1/4. As I said earlier, the standard settings are just a guide line and most carbs have to be adjusted, if you feel that your no-load (L) or your full load (H) screws are completely misadjusted, then carefully close both screws. Then turning them anti clockwise follow the settings that are listed above. Screwing them out make's it richer. I started off with the L set at 1&1/4 from seated & the H at 1&1/2. Part's are easy to get from online
STARTING A COLD ENGINE:
Always make sure the throttle is in the closed position. Now apply the choke which is on the carb on the solo and Zenoah G260RC or on the air filter on the earlier Zenoah engines. Press the primer pump located on the carb until the pump is full of fuel, this you will be able to see. Pull the handle until you hear the engine try and start, this usually takes 2-4 pulls. When you reach this stage, open the choke and give another couple of Do I need to "Tune" the engine?
Once you have completed the run-in procedure you may need to adjust your Low speed or high speed mixture needle, DO NOT adjust these needles unless you need to! Unlike nitro models, once the Zenoah petrol engine has been tuned/run-in the chances of you needing to re-tune it is very slim, the only time you may need to adjust the needles is if you install a tuned pipe.
If after the run-in procedure your engine feels sluggish between low-mid range throttle then you need to adjust the Low Speed needle
If after the run-in procedure your engine feels sluggish between mid-high range throttle then you need to adjust the High Speed needle
The needles are easily identified which is which as they have an "L" symbol for Low speed & "H" symbol for high speed next to the needle.
When adjusting turn the needle clockwise 1/16 of a turn then start her up & drive about for 10-15 mins to see if its made the problem better or worse, if better then your heading the right direction, stop the engine then repeat this step until your problem has gone ..result!
If worse then you need to turn the needle anti-clokwise 1/16 of a turn (this will put the needle back to the default setting what you started at) then do another 1/16 turn anti-clockwise then start your engine & drive about for 10-15 mins, the worse scenario is there's no change in the performance which is a good sign! ..kill the engine & turn a further 1/16 of a turn anti-clock wise, repeat this step until your problem has gone
NOTE: Always make a note (pen & paper works wonders!) of how many turns you have turned the needle, if in the worse scenario your problem is worse than what it was when you started, you can easily put the needle back to where it was when you started allowing you to start the procedure from scratch.
Rule of the thumb is: NEVER turn needle more than 1/16 of a turn, doing so you may pass the "sweet" spot altogether without knowing giving you a headache!
pulls. This should start your engine.

tizdaz

if your going from 1/8 to large scale, you might find this topic useful.. someone else in this thread was thinking about doing the same :-)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4968692