oldman65

Does anyone have a fix to keep the exhaust bolts from backing out. I'm running a dominator pipe on a Baja

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

Red Lock tight and spring washers ..

oldman65

I worry about lock thight on exhaust. Wont the heat seize the bolts into the cylinder?

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

i MYSELF have no issue , maybe some more people can shed there experience with lock tight with you .. if you really dont wanna use lock tight then spring or lock washers on there own
Good luck

bigmodman

use a dab of anit sieze.or some blue lock tight.the red is for a permanant use only.

badz

My Feedback: (1)

Use blue locktite...don't use red

Billyfunnyguy

Um,
We heat Locktite to get it off. One of the hottest parts of the engine is the exhaust and head. Locktite will not work. Use spring or lock washers.

badz

My Feedback: (1)

Really? Whoever told you this obviously knows nothing about Loctite products. I've yet to see a RC Exhaust hit 450 degree's.
"246 Threadlocker High Temp./Medium Strength

This threadlocker resists oil and mild surface contamination at continuous temperatures to 450°F. Suitable for fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" (6 to 20 mm) diameters.
"
Loctite makes thousands of products and it does work on exhaust bolts very well.

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

please red is fine for cap head bolts .. they come out with no issues just alittle tighter and hold up better ..

oldman65

Well guys, I think I will try blue locktight first and if that doesn't work then I will try red. Lets not argue over this. What ever works best is what should be used.

I didn't know if anyone had the same problem.

Thanks for all the suggestions...

badz

My Feedback: (1)

I've had them come loose on planes before and used blue loctite....I've used it on all my gaser pipes since then, cars and planes and haven't had one come loose since and when removal is needed it's cake.

huw4027

Currently i am having that problem with my x-can and i have put blue
loctite on the screws but after running for about an hour or so the screws back
right out. [:@]
At this point i guess i might try the red.[8D]

Earth Surfer

I thought lock tight melted at about 250 or 300 deg F. It is quite a bit hotter at the material right next to the exhaust port.

Try lapping the gasket surface of the exhaust port, and the end of the pipe flat. Those screws comeing loose are not a supper common problem---and the surfaces not being flat is just my best guess on why.

ElectronJunk

I have found BLUE lock tite to work excellant in every RC car application as long as I do the following:
Make sure the screw and the screw hole is very clean, by spraying brake cleaner on the screws and in the holes. Let the brake cleaner dry up before applying lock tite.
Secondly, allow the locktite to sit 24hrs to cure. (YEAH, I know it dries faster than that, but dry does not mean Cured)

Heck, I often have to heat the head of screws with a soldering iron to get BLUE lock tited screws out. I would need a tourch to get them out if I used RED.[sm=47_47.gif]

Simply my experience.

Electronjunk

Billyfunnyguy

You said BLUE locktite, now you say:

YOU, should think before you type then we will understand you. Oh , but I forgot from what I read you know all so why question?

Billyfunnyguy

Yup thats what I was saying

Billyfunnyguy

No one told me. You mentioned Blue not 246. I am Guessing after your second post you ment 246 in your 1st reply. Yes, that will work at higher temps.

aga

I used blue loctite and mine came loose too, so its not just me.

bryan70546

My Feedback: (4)

DUC TAPE

oldman65

Well I just got my replacement parts for my 27.2 Zenoah from ESP so I will put it together tomorrow and use blue loctite on the exhaust bolts. I'll run a full tank and let everyone know how it works.

sb racing

I use fg green loctite on exhaust bolts, Very strong stuff and can still remove them easily when needed, The part number is fg 6504/1 screw retention, high strength

Simon

huw4027

Well guys i have a confession to make. I was reading that infamous..Freddy
Kruger vs Jason Vorhees...oooops i mean Badz vs Ryan from DDM thread
and i noticed on one of the photos Badz showed the X-port on the exhaust
and.. WHAM...it occured to me that the x-port should be mounted directly on the
exhaust and not inside the can itself. I was wondering why when i first got it
there were 2 gaskets and also why the x-port was not lining up with the holes
properly. To get to the meat of the matter maybe that is why the bolts keep
on backing out.
Well for all the novices like me out there don't make the same mistake. [sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]

huw4027

On another note i decided to put back on the stock pipe because the X-can
is too loud and wherever i run the baja the loud sound causes alot of attention.[8D]
I have the 29cc with stuffed crank motor so i feel the power should still
be adequate.

badz

My Feedback: (1)

hey at least someone looked at the pics hehe...i've been using the stock can and even cleaned everything out of it and dont use the stinger and the power from it is pretty pathetic compared to what the dominator gave it...i run a 29cc stuffed crank engine also with 8000rpm clutch spring...it's way more power than stock but just takes forever to really hit the powerband on the stock pipe

huw4027

Well badz i just don't like the look of the tuned pipes out there and i never liked the
fact that they melt some of the plastic posts.I must admit that out of all of them i
liked the "black"Dominator pipe because it blended in well with the black posts at the rear of the BAJA 5B. [8D]