heli1966

Hello,

Thank you for responding however I've checked the plug and I have spark. I noticed the plug is dry when I take it off from the engine.

lbsickboy

Hi and nice to see another fs basher on the sean .
well just a few things we would like to know is is this a new engine or old have you got enough compression

lbsickboy

This should keep you busy and it should work

copy'd from DDM's tech page

These carburetors require regular adjustment to ensure peak performance, and also to avoid an unsafe lean condition, which can prematurely damage your engine. If you find your top-end RPM's have fallen off a bit, or if you experience lagging or surging, it is probably time to re-adjust the carb jets. To ensure max performance and engine life, follow this procedure:
1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position).
2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open.
3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open.
4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.

Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin driving, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.

Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:

If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.

If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.

If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.

If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.

What are the recommended carburetor needle settings for my engine?
DDM recommends the following tuning as a STARTING POINT for tuning your engine:
G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 engines: 1 and 1/4 L, 1 and 3/8 H.

This should kep you busy and it should wokr

bbeverlie

If you have spark as you say! Try spraying a quick shot of WD-40 in the cylinder then install the plug and try to fire! Believe in or not the motor will fire for a couple seconds!

If it does then you have a fuel delivery problem, If it dosen't then you may have a compression problem and that's not good! You can remove the plug and put some mystery oil in the cyclinder roll it around and pull it over! Get as much of the oil out as
you can and retry the WD-40 again ( don't use either ) The mystery oil will improve compression long enough that it should start and die! An other option is to get a small
engine compression tester at your local small engine repair or just have them test it
for you!

FS*MT*4WD

here is a thread for people new to FS
http://www.fshopups.com/diy-guide.htm

csdilligaf

I am interested in the 1/4 scale upgrade kit. How long untill it comes out and what web site can I get it at?

nutechracingusa

Hello
I should have them available here in United States and you can find it on my site www.zerogravityrc.com or in the UK you can find the kit on www.fshopups.com I have started to get it up on the site there is allot of work to do yet but it will give you an idea of the kit, I should have these available in the next few weeks just finalizing the kit and waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

nutechracingusa

Here is a little video clip of my 1/5 scale with the 1/4 differential conversion, started to run out of fuel at the end but you get the idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsqxeP52mH0

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

asphaltcowboy

Nice "driving - control" with the new 1/4 conversion Kit, Scott ...

In the Video you drive with the MT Gears ?

Scott, the 1/4 CVD´s and "dogbones" are fitting on MCD EVO 3 axes, too...

Great Service, Scott [sm=wink_smile.gif]

I build something together :

nutechracingusa

Thanks asphalt

I am using the MT steel gears 39-24-25-24 once I put the larger wheels back on it really needs the gearing to get it out of the whole with all the traction and rotating mass from the large wheels :-), once its on the pipe it rips just fine, these small truggy wheels I have on it for the video because I was running it on the pavement cause it to fall short on top as its running out of gear with the touring car gearing 33-30-25-24 it goes much faster on top end obviously but its funner to me when it is snappy like I have it in the video just tap the throttle and it gets up on the pipe instantly :-) its fun to play with the gearing and wheel diameters depending on where your driving it!!!!!

Nice I figured the 1/4 CVD and rear axles would fit the evo 3 from looking at all there pictures, are those the evo 3 lower a arms you have in the pictures ? that will widen the stance and upgrade the axle diameter for the 1/5 scales :-) sweet more options keep it up asphalt [8D]!!!

P.S I noticed your part # on the bags in the pictures the manual and the parts we got from the factory have different part #s for those 2 parts we have part #018108 for the front CVD and part #018110 for the rear shafts ?

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

asphaltcowboy

Yes, the 1/4 CVD and rear axles would fit the MCD EVO 3 ! Pictures show my MCD EVO 3 parts with FS 1/4 CVD´s ... [sm=wink_smile.gif]


Part Numbers are different ? I don´t know why ... [sm=wink_smile.gif]
I like the "chinese service" ... [sm=wink_smile.gif]

Greetings Maik

nutechracingusa

Sweet looks good bud I might have to convert my 1/5 scale now lol just cant justify the price on the stock MCD Evo 3 parts http://innovativehobby.com/189-4-p-4...tevo32008.aspx $28 x 2 http://innovativehobby.com/192-4-ds-...nevo32008.aspx $31 http://innovativehobby.com/04250-p-2...asticevo3.aspx $28 x 2 for the diff boxes http://innovativehobby.com/mcdreardr...o2andevo3.aspx $22 x 2 plus the upper a arms and some misc hardware and the aluminum is even worse lol you almost need to take out a loan to buy the MCD aluminum lol would be a very nice setup though, yeah you have to love the chinese consistancy lol it seem like every time I order something from them it comes in a different bag with different part #s lol doesnt make it very easy for someone that takes pictures of the exact parts for the site, everytime I order parts I have some new pictures of old parts to take lol [:@]!!!

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

asphaltcowboy

Scott, i know, MCD parts are expensive.
I don´t need original mcd parts to buy.
I have a lot of friends to make parts even better ... [sm=wink_smile.gif]
Alloy MCD EVO3 Diffhousings are Ready with FS Diff´s,
also EVO3 alloy upper and lower arms are coming ...
Alloy 7075 T6, Weight : under 190 Gramm - one diffhousing !!!
Original plastic MCD EVO3 and Ultimate Diffhousing Weight : 100 Gramm
A little example :

nutechracingusa

[X(] Wow that looks like some nice machine work :-) wish we had a machinist around here that had the time an ambition to make these parts at a reasonable price production runs are not cheap and its even more costly to have just a handful of them made as the setup and programming time is insane with those material doesn't cost much its all the up front programming time that costs so much, ask your buddy how many operations that is to make just those differential boxes :-) beautiful work I love machined aluminum

asphaltcowboy

Scott, my friend is a "genius",
first he build with his father a professional CNC Mill,
it is very exactly 1/1000mm !!!
After they have done, he bought a MCD Sport Model
and now he build alloy parts ...
Weight of selfmade CNC Mill - over 300 Kilogramm ...

Greetings Maik

dc2 man

looking at that video it sounds like clutch spring problem,clutch is not up to the job.....i know the feeling,you can hear the drag on the video,its a big buggy and dragging clutch spring.

i love it.......very nice!!!

are these in production now?

must be huge? is it 1/4th size or 1/5th ?

very nice......

asphaltcowboy

Scott,
FS 1/4 shocks are even bigger and much better
than FS 1/5 shocks - look at the picture ... [sm=wink_smile.gif]

nutechracingusa

Yes sir I have the 1/4 scales here http://www.zerogravityrc.com/fsmars4wd14scale.aspx there was such a difference I had to take a pictures comparing them on our site under the 1/4 marrs :-) those 1/4 shock are awesome I love them on my conversion, I feel these 1/4 scale shocks are a very nice upgrade to the 1/5 for on or off road as my on road handling has even improved over the stock 1/5 scale long shocks!!!

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

nutechracingusa

Not sure about the clutch dragging doesn't seem to be to me everything is still tight this is only the 2nd tank and the first tank I ran it on a test stand, I do have tall gears in it and the 1/4 differentials are larger in diameter then the 1/5 that was in it, what you are looking at in that video is my custom conversion, I took a bone stock 1/5 scale and basically took the front and rear differentials off and installed the 1/4 scale marrs front and rear differentials, boxes and everything that is bolted to them :-) arms, shocks ect. This is a kit I will be offering shortly, it will be available with several different options for different prices, you can take a look I have started to put it up on my site http://www.zerogravityrc.com/14diffe...15chassis.aspx , hope to have this kit ready to go early Nov incurred a little delay with some of the parts still being manufactured but I should have the kits ready to go by early Nov

Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC

fourwheels0

My Feedback: (7)

it's a shame that the fs cars don't come with a decent engine.
well i guess thats what you get for a $650 rtr 5th scale 4wd onroad.
i have the 4wd onroad that i got from a guy after the engine blew up after 1 tank.
upon investigating online i found that the fs cars have a no-name engine in them with infeirior bearings,castings and such according to several forums.
i was going to put a decent engine in it but decided to just sell it.
oh'well i just had to vent.

asphaltcowboy

FS 4x4 Buggy at German Racetrack

Last weekend we had in Großheubach/Germany a little "Fun Cup".
This racetrack is near Mogatech/MCD Europe.

At start 25 x 4WD Car´s :

1 x Redcat Rampangne
2 x Hurrax,
21 x MCD,
and
1 x FS 4WD Buggy !!! [sm=wink_smile.gif]

At saturday it rains and rains - the racetrack was very wet, hard to drive.
At sunday the weather was even better - no rain.

This 4WD FS Buggy was driven by a 15 year old Boy, called Tom.

This was his first Race ! He get up to the 1/2 Final - Place 15.

Original FS Engine, FS Reso-Pipe and FG Marder tyres.

One of the plastic gears are broken. He used a mix of steel and plastic gears.

Hey - original MCD´s fall out !!!

If he had no broken plastic gear, he were at place 8.







That shows me, that FS Car´s have on racetracks a good chance
to win, if they are better modified. Look- 10 MCD´s under place 15 !!!

Greetings Maik

asphaltcowboy

Some news about 1/4 parts conversion with alloy selfmade parts ...

This Alloy "FS 1/4 convertion Kit Car" is from Mike Burkhardt / Germany :









































Greetinks Maik

EngageRC

Nice stuff!

reaganreagan

My Feedback: (25)

nice I have my 4x4 kong on the way and I would like to do the lower a arm mod



r2

asphaltcowboy

Some news about FS Racing Products :

Today arrived my new FS Racing BAJA Wheel adapters,
they fit on all FS Racing cars perfectly ...
It´s the same screw - thread like HPI´s.
Look at my pictures :