ORIGINAL: niko64

yes i still have to say,rings need to break in.mechanic/technician for 26 years.owned many 2 stroke dirt bikes,tecate 250 trikes,250 quadracers.edge of rings needs to wear to cylinder bore.once broken in yes lubrication is key for longevity.

ORIGINAL: Johnnysplits

I use redline 2 stroke racing oil.

ORIGINAL: ronin8451

There is a reason you are supposed to get a new engine in your car's oil changed after 500 miles, it was filled with petroleum oil for proper ring seating and will be replaced with synthetic.

ORIGINAL: ronin8451

Most ALL engine manufacturers recommend standard petroleum oil for engine break in, not synthetic. Synthetic is just that much more slippery and will take much longer to "wear in" components. I have built MANY full-sized 700+ HP v-8's for drag and dirt racing and you will not get the rings to seat properly to build full HP with synthetic oils ! I have also built lots of dirt bikes and same goes for them and all of my 50CC gasser airplanes also. There is a reason you are supposed to get a new engine in your car's oil changed after 500 miles, it was filled with petroleum oil for proper ring seating and will be replaced with synthetic.

ORIGINAL: ronin8451

As for in the UK, I have no idea why you would drive around so long with the break-in metal particles floating around in your oil...not a dealer I would go to( you might ask Edd China what he recommends). Why would most of the leading Synthetic oil manufacturers the make ... GASP ... a petroleum based engine break-in oil high in Zinc ? Check out a few of the following links ( some may be controversial on break-in methods, but ALL say NO Synthetic for ring seal on a new engine ! ) :

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html no mention of synthetic oil as ok for break-in
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm Quote '' Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over. ''
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code= Mineral oil based, not synthetic !
And finally , a letter from Royal Purple :
''The standard RP Motor Oils or our RP XPR Series of oils have 3-4 times more load carrying ability than other oils both conventional or synthetic, whether street or racing oils as well as other oils containing high amounts of ZDDP.

RP’s Break-In Oil is not an over-additized product over our street oil – it is actually a formulation so that the engine’s piston rings can readily scuff and seat as compared to our standard products with Synerlec which imparts 400% greater oil film strength. The Break-in Oil is for newly assembled engines that require piston ring seating but need an oil that can protect lat tappet cam setups.

Using a ‘break-in’ oil or an antiwear supplement loaded with high dosages of ash producing additives on a constant routine basis is forgetting about what happened to engines from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s where excessive valve deposits and stuck piston rings were quite common place. Those hard scaly tannish brown deposits on exhaust valves were caused by oil with high amounts of metallic ash additives leaving deposits – so overloading your oil with those components on a continual basis will lead to premature engine wear – particularly in the valve and ring area.

RP’s Break-in oil contains a stout antiwear additive package sufficient to protect most flat tappet cam engines and non-flat tappet cam engine applications for up to 2500 miles. We use a mineral base stock as most users believe that synthetic base stocks will not allow engines to break in (how does GM, Ford, and Chrysler factory fill then?). We also remove our proprietary advanced additive system Synerlec again to allow the piston rings to seat.

If your engine is in such a state that you do not require the rings to seat (say just installing a new cam setup), then we would recommend using the RP 10W40, RP 15W40 or one of our XPR Series of oils.

Thanks again for the question and hopefully – you’re using RP in your flat tappet engines. Once the rings seat – we recommend going to the appropriate RP Motor Oil as soon as possible for additional protection.

Sincerely,

David


David Canitz

Tech Services

Royal Purple Inc.''

Nuff said !

ORIGINAL: 93octane

I have been building and racing 2 strokes for 25+ years and have found that a short breakin with petroleum based oil THEN a switch to pure synthetic yielded a better running and longer lasting engine when mixed properly, these small 2 stroke engines really rev out and need a proper breakin and a high quality 2 stroke oil to stay alive, they arent weed wackers! they are far better!