Foxy

Lars, 19 and 20 both use a 44 spur for FGs, not FHs. Look at the gear chart!! They do mesh up, not mess up.

slawhammer

well I do know about tooth count here in the Giant scale cars,trucks and buggys..But in the nitro world I thought it was a 5 tooth difference too get correct gear mesh..
Oh speaking of gear mesh ..How do you set it with gas engines?In notro the engine mount moved..where you used paper in between gears.. and looked for smooth roll thru the gears with
slight krinkle...then tighten the mount down....Like I mentioned this is all new to me with this giant scale...Thank you....
Roger

Lars from Norway

Would have been interesting too see a pic of this,i have 20/44 on my Marder now,i just cant understand how 19/44 can mesh up with the right distance between the teeth

Foxy

Its the same as with the HPI, they slightly change the pitch so as not change the diameter. Hpi has 16, 17 and 18 tooth pinions which mesh with the stodck 57tooth spur, just like FG use each spur for 2 ratios.

Foxy

Roger, you don't set gear mesh on gassers, the spur usually changes along with the pinion to ensure the mesh, that's why you're restricted to specific combinations. There are no sliding mounts on these cars, as they would slide around too much from the weight and the forces.

slawhammer

Foxy>>>GOT IT...ok I noticed today when I did get the rear diff out that the mounts for the engine are plastic...opps corrected 1 plactic.. looks like smaller one is alloy...
That will have to wait...I owe my sons a bunch of money now...It will take me 6 months to pay them off..If it wasn't for them and you nice people helping I would still be playing with nitro..
I have done many engine mods ported sleeve's and crank mods different cooling heads and other mods for nitro...along with many up graded parts...But I always wanted to go bigger
really heart set on a FG pro with beatle shell...But this firehammer will do ..I have too start some place in this giant scale...Thanks again for your help as well as other people who have replied
to this thread...I am so excited about this...little kid in side wants to play with toyz..
Roger

slawhammer

Ok ..I got a question for ya...a Rc friend and I was yaking about different things and the question came up that I should be using a 6volt regulator for this big foot firehammer ..to
keep the voltage the same with no drop off...Is that true...I thought you used the voltage regulator in air planes with higher voltage packs for using more servos..like 4 or 5 servos and too step down the
voltage to keep from burning up the servo...What are your thoughts on this....
Roger

Lars from Norway

Ok,the thought of the pitch changing suddenly strucked me,now i understand!

slawhammer

Reply too Lars..In post#5.. I guess I missed part of your question on walking again...sorry on that..In what happened I had a heart attack..it can happen to any age any time..I was told mostly about what went on with every thing..In surgary they put in 5 arteries ..went to recovery ..had what is called a bleed out ..vain did not take and was bleeding..if do not catch or watch for this ..you can die..blood is leaving your body..
they had to reoperate again...I remember seeing a bright lite in this tunnel and being drawen to it with a shadow of a figure there..getting closer to this figure...when Bam called back to real life...Now I was told they had to operate a third time...All this in one day...Next I was in a coma for 7 days..When I came too..I could not move my left arm or legs..Was told I would be in a wheel chair...and would never be able to use left arm or walk again....I thought there goes my RC hobby I love so much..I point blank told them I would walk and be able to use my arm again..Get me in to therapy asap..Well 2 weeks went by and went home..The next 6 months I learned too walk..no more wheel chair...next step use of left arm..took about 3 months work there..All this time I kept looking at my RC stuff it was waiting for me
to be able play again...So now being 64 yrs old and a second chance on life..I play like a 18 year old kid again..even if it is 30 minutes out side with the RC toyz...It is this love for the hobby that kept me going...And now with this 1/5 scale toy ..which is new to me..and the help from all you good people with this..cuz of my dumb questions not knowing any thing about large scale...Each and every one who replies to the post makes me feel great about this large scale hobby and gives me the desire to learn more...So with the second chance of new life ..I take each day for what I have,,,
OK ok I will get off the soap box....But wanted to share this with you all....Many thank you's go to you all..I will keep you posted when I get my parts to make the firehammer run..I am so excited about ..Roger

Lars from Norway

I dont know what to say...this must have been a wow-experience.Sounds like you had one and a half foot in the grave when remembering seeing lights and shadow of a figure.Makes you wonder whats on "the other side".
There are no dumb questions,only dumb answers

slawhammer

Ok..I asked in post # 32 about a voltage regulator ...I know the servos can handle 6 volts..I have a 6V 3000mah nimh..But want to go more on batterys 7.2 or 8.4 voltage lipo..
My thinking is those large scale servos are a hog for power usage..By using a 6volt switching regulator I would have a constant 6 volts ...with the lenier regulator it would drop off..
So does any body have any suggestions on this...Thank you..
Roger

Foxy

You can use a regulator if you'd like, but it's not really necessary. I generally run batteries around 3000mAh, and have never found myself wishing for more duration, and that's with a multiplex rhino digi 4 on steering, and an ACE DS1015 on brake, which is supposed to be a juicy combo. My opinion is still that lipo = fire risk, and where the battery sits on these (right in front of the fuel tank), I can't help feeling that's not just unnecessary, but asking for a small gas explosion. Not to mention the fact that you can't really run a voltage cut off on the receiver, cos then you'd need a killswitch failsafe, and if that cut in at 40 mph, but no braking was applied, and of course you can't steer, cos the receivers shut down, I would say you have a fast rolling problem.

I recommend a nice juicy (3000mAh plus) regular 6v pack made from sub C cells, a regular braking failsafe and an automatic killswitch.

slawhammer

FOXY: Thanks for your reply..I do have a new 6 volt 3000Mah Nimh sub c pac..I will use that...I have coming a kill switch for the engine...I will be using my spectrum DX3 transmitter and think R3000 Rec
spectrum has a built in fail safe..And with the kill switch I can use 3rd channel on transmitter..ok the sub-c pack is a 2/3 style for a baja ..So guess I will have too mount it on the front bracket behind the fronttower..any suggestions there..Thanks again..
Roger

Foxy

Yeh, that's not a bad place for it, zip tie it securely wherever you think best. I actually tape mine to the battery strap, as per FGs instructions. Even given that yours is not the ideal shape for the truck, I expect you can still tape it to the strap fairly easily. Your choice though.

slawhammer

FOXY: Thanks for your reply..Oh another dump question? I don't know if this applys to large scale gasoline or not..But should I cut a hole in the body windshield for air flow to the engine?
Nirto world you have too..I know there is the cooling duct on the starter cover for the engine...Oh yeah I also have outerwares covers coming...Hope too have all parts this next week..
maybe just maybe up and running by the week end..can't wait..
Roger

slawhammer

OK..I talked too my sons about my firehammer, and they said "pop" let's do it up right..up grade it now..ALLOY PARTS..I have tryed too look ..at dave's motorsport's,large scale,but I am confussed on this for the firehammer.What will fit.I would like too find both shock towers,front and rear,upper and lower control arms,rear diff side plates,Maybe wheel adapters for 23 mm hex Hubs,I know I am missing some things here..So any help here would be great.. Please chime in and help me get this project built...Thank You Every one has been a great help so far..Got too love you people for your help in this hobby..
Roger

Lars from Norway

Do not upgrade "too much"!Remember,when making one thing stronger,the next one will break.What i mean,by using aluminium control arms,you will maybe break the parts they are attached to instead by an impact.I recommend you buy some aluminium uprights,and use the original plastic control arms instead.Same with the gears,have the spurgear in plastic and the pinion in steel/alloy,its good to have a weak link in the drivetrain so you dont smash any other expensive parts instead.Rear diff side plates are ok upgrade,the drivetrain and components around are maybe not the strongest in plastic

slawhammer

Lars: Thanks for your reply..I think for now I would like to find the Rear Diff side plates in Alloy...and go from there..Yup your right about breaking parts and some thing else breaks
at a weaker point....Note well taken thank you for the reminder...
Roger

slawhammer

Ok..I am looking over my FireHammer today..getting ready to insrall new parts ..that will be here Monday..I see this engine has a walbro 668 carb..Now as I know nothing about these carb's..
How good are they in general?As mentioned in the first post this is second hand too me...so not very well taken care of by the orig owner..I am going thru pretty much the basics to get up and running..
New Bearings for wheels,new steel gears.replacing rear diff outer shell,drive cups,on rear diff & wheels as they split and worn..kill switch..At a later time I will want too make stronger for drive train..alloy gear plate,alloy engine mounts..Oh I see dark soul had a heavy duty set of dog bones(they say baja app though)..So any thing I might have missed please advise ..I don't want to go thru this right away again..
I just want to fire this beast up and use it...Thanks Roger

hellya

One of the main problems with the firehammer and FG vehicles are the motor mounts and the stock plastic clutch bell pinion.

if your motor mounts get loose... that will mess up the gear mesh inbetween your layshaft pinion and the rear diff ring....thats where you slide the paper inbetween to set your mesh

best thing you can do to help prevent this is upgrade to alloy motor mounts and a steel pinion

Also if you like to jump alot...... get alloy rear upper arms (FG alloy will work here)... this stops your arms for hitting your spur gear and messing up your gears teth

Foxy

Indeed, as I mentioned in my PM Roger, the alloy motor mounts are your first 'hop-up', anything you can do to increase rigidity at the rear end will help. As for heavy duty driveshafts, you should look into the ball drive set from FG, but this is not something you need to do yet if your dogbones and cups are still ok.

slawhammer

Ok.. Thanks hellya & foxy..I guess my meds are messing up my thinking today..not so sharp...I have looked on line for the motor mounts..seems like most US dealers are out of stock at this time..
The motor mounts are what I want to get done first ..Just have to locate some this week..Thanks again Roger

slawhammer

Foxy...The drive cups are split and the dog bones are worn..1 bone has a broken pin on the rear..Most of the damage is I think from a stone getting in the rear diff and smashing the outter shell
and spliting the drive cups and breaking a dog bone pin...My son's may have gotten a good deal on this firehammer from e-bay..But It will need aleast 4 to 5 hundard bucks put in to it..just to make it right..
I will have a better truck when done..Oh yeah point me in the right direction for those fg balldrive..Thanks Roger
Hellya .. thanks for the heads up on the lay shaft mesh with the paper..Note well taken..Thanks Roger

Foxy

Hellya, I'm not sure which ball drive set Roger needs, can you assist with a part number on this one? I think it's 9470 but I'm not 100% sure...

hellya

you can get all the stock parts you need from here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=DTXD97**&P=Z


......I always used/sold the balldrives from lauterbacher

Get the ss diff cover http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/fg/...ectorsmall.jpg