slawhammer

Ok..I am new too this 1/5 scale,been in nirto world for over 50 years..mostly airplanes..But the last couple have been off/road trucks..yeah adjust all the time with temp or weather changes to keep running.
Well let me start off by telling you about my self..I am a retied disabled vet..just now recovering from heart attack..The RC Hobby is what keeps me going each day if for only a little bit to get out side
to run the toys..Well my 2 sons got me this used Bigfoot truck.. smarttech..from e-bay..looks like a firehammer..Truck looks road hard and put up wet..not very well taken care of..broken body,missimg screws and damaged parts..came with new DDM torque pipe and a new aftermarket engine 29cc not sure what the engine is no ID or name..I do not ask for much outside of some advice or help on fixing a few things..When in the nitro world I made many friends who up graded there trucks and some donated me there old stock parts to keep my stuff going..I paid for the shipping and gave what I could too help pay for the items..I am on a very low income..but love the hobby of RC...I see you can get parts from tower...I have tried to read some of the posts here in RCU forums by some of you nice people here..
Ok the question is looks like the rear diff shell is all smashed in..what do I need to get this replaced or repaired?I have not found any manuals or exploded view of parts yet too look at..
I would really love to have a FG with a beatle body,,But that will be another year to wait..I will make due with this for now...I just take each day for what I have too enjoy..One never knows.. my not be here the next...Like I said I do not ask for very much..just a little of your time or maybe some old stocks parts to help this old man out...Thank you for reading this.. I am sure I will learn a lot from you
kind people...Roger

Foxy

Hey Roger...

OK, one thing at a time... The diff housing... This can be replaced very cheaply, and probably someone here has the original plastic ring that goes around it that they could donate, as they are often discarded in favour of a metal diff. If not, then the metal replacement will work for you and is $7 anyway.

The bigfoot is what we call a 'marder clone', in other words a clone of the famous FG model buggy, the Marder, and the smartech copy is widely hailed as a good effort compared to many other marder clones. So good, that it in turn was cloned (badly) by another company Sheng Qi.

This means that a lot of (but not all) original FG parts will fit, and while sometimes slightly more costly, are worth getting when the opportunity arises.

There's a very good online store, we all use it for our HPI Baja stuff, and now they've started doing FG items too, it's called DDM (Daves Discount Motors), and the web address is davesmotors.com . I think is what you need at the moment... http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product2300.html

anything else we can help with right now? Nice to see you made the switch to large scale, they're very satisfying to run compared to nitros.

Lars from Norway

Maybe some members here can donate parts they have lying around if they dont bin it the moment it comes off the car,for example i have some wisbones whose joints are a bit roomy but fully useable and other stuff but its a long way to ship from Norway to US.
Good luck with the recovering!

slawhammer

Thank you both..Foxy and Lars..for your replies...I will have 1 of my sons get the diff case from dave's for me..
And to lars..It would be pend on the size box of used parts you have for shipping cost,,But I am sure 1 of my sons would get
a US Postal money order to cover the cost plus a little more...,,,As to my recover things are going good...I had to learn how to walk all over again
and no longer in a wheel chair..This RC Hobby is a blessing for me...Keeps my mind active and hands busy...I can't wait too run this 1/5 scale truck..
UPDATE: I found a small ID tag..the engine is a CY29cc..
Looks like all plastic gears..uggg bad for pinion and spur gear..Any thing I can do there? or just use it for now...
Thanks again for your replies.....It's people like you guys helping a new comer too this 1/5 scale stuff that makes the hobby all worth while...

Lars from Norway

The plastic gears will be fine as long as they seems fine and not worn out.Sounds like a strong engine you got there,so the plastic gears might become to weak and break after a while.I dont have so many parts,its just the wisbone i can think of right now.It was more like an example to which parts that can be used,even if its a bit worn out.
Glad to hear that youre out of the wheelchair,must be strange to learn how to walk again.A situation i can be without,but time will show.As you say,one never knows...
Have a look [link=http://www.minicars.se/sprangskisser.htm#fg]in this link[/link] and see if theres any parts you can use that is compatible with your car

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

I have a Firehammer which is virtually identical to your truck. On the diff, once you get it apart look for metal shavings in the grease and ground down teeth on the bevel gears inside the diff. My plastic diff housing broke and I didn't catch it in time to save the bevel gears. The case is inexpensive but the gears are not. You can use Duratrax Firehammer/Firehammer MT parts on that truck. Smartech makes these clones (Duratrax, XTM Racing, Carson) as Foxy said. I run an FG alloy diff housing and it fits perfectly on a Firehammer. The replacement FG alloy case/sleeve runs about $60. The plastic one will hold up if you don't bash hard.

Any local hobby shop that sells Duratrax can get you the parts. You can also get everything you need from Tower Hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com).
The full parts listing on Tower can be found here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=DTXD98**&P=Z

The plastic diff case can be found here (case and sleeve) for $4.50. You local shop could get it for $5 - $6 and save you the shipping charges.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHTU4&P=Z

After cleaning all the good diff parts off good you will need to re-grease the diff with heavy gear grease. I used Lucas Red'N'Tacky gear grease but I have heard that ball-joint grease will also work. Use just a liberal amount of grease on the gear faces. It is not necessary to pack the whole diff with grease.

If you can find the budget to do it I would highly recommend replacing the small plastic pinion gear on the clutch bell with a metal one. This gear heats up easily, softens and the teeth strip off. I went through many of these gears before finally getting the metal one. The larger plastic spur gear works great with the metal pinion gear. You can get a metal spur gear at Large Scale RC for about $23:

http://www.innovativehobby.com/index...OD&ProdID=1015

If you need to run your plastic gear for a while then try to run it a little easy to keep the heat down. You might want to order a spare plastic pinion to have on hand.

Lastly, you can download a great exploded diagram of the truck from Duratrax or XTM. Here's Duratrax's diagram. The first page has the diff breakdown on it:

http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/dt...8-exploded.pdf

slawhammer

Thank you all for your replies on the firehammer...I will be checking all the info out...
Question..seeing how this is used and not sure what is all wrong with the firehammer..engine ,servos.exhaust new...so maybe should install all new bearingswheels,diff and clutch..
that way I know where I am at on this..My son found a complete bearing set for $49.95 plus shipping...as for steel pinion a must..oh yeah my son also found a think FG alloy plate for the spur gear..to use the plastic gear....
Or would it be better to use all metal gears?I would like to find a cone shaped airfilter K&N style...I know years ago you used a vol stack on carb and then the airfilter..that was on dirt bikes..
I will open up the rear diff..if gears bad will replace them....Any way my son offered to help pay for this stuff...It would take me like 3 months to get $100 bucks saved up..
Once again thank you all..If you want too Pm me or e-mail me feel free to do so..cuz
Maybe some of this would be too long to go thru in the forum...
Roger

dazzza1978

Slawhammer,

Mate I reckon that I have the said metal pinion gears, and a spare plastic drive gear, and also diff plate that holds the gear system to the diff.

I will have a squiz this weekend, and let you know.

slawhammer

Oh Man that would be great...I am really looking forward to running this beast of a truck..Even if I can only get out side for 30 minutes..
some days are good for me and others are not so good with the medication I have too take...On bad days I watch DVD movies,,,On good days I am very keen in the mind and work on RC stuff
But I really love this hobby...I am very thankful for a second chance on life..I am also very greatful to all you nice RC people who are will to take your time to write a responce in the forum here
It is people like each and every one of you that make this hobby by helping others with info and ideas...You were just like me here now,,New to this and some one helped you..Many thanks..
Roger

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

The bearings used on the wheels are "standard" in-line skate sized. The other bearings can be found almost as easily. I buy all my bearings from an eBay reseller who stocks all the sizes. You could probably get the bearings for less than $50 (not sure what quality you've found or are looking for).

I forgot that I do have an FG alloy spur gear carrier holding a plastic spur gear. As I mentioned above the steel pinion works well with a plastic spur. I run a fairly worn plastic spur on my buggy for a couple of years now with no signs of further wear after going to the steel pinion.

I'd recommend getting the broken parts sorted out first and see what else pops up. The stock servos may work fine. I run a stock Futaba S3003 for throttle/brake. It's a piece of crap nylon geared servo that is somewhat underpowered for the stock brakes but I still have fun running the buggy.

Let us know your progress as you fix it up.

slawhammer

Kengen..Thanks for your reply..I looked at the servos ..There new futaba 3010 for throttle..Futaba high torque for steering..so I am ok there..
I will be looking it the diff in a day or so...My son found bearings just a standard grade at BOCA bearings ..Think he said $49.95 for a complete set
for the truck..encludes wheels frt & rear,rear diff and ..here we go non think..Oh bad day...these days are best not too do any thing RC lelated..
many thanks to you my friend..And the others who are helping me out...Yes I will let you know how things progress with this firehammer..
Thanks again...Roger

slawhammer

Ok ..further looking at the firehammer..I see that the diff is a blue alloy with alum case...The case is crushed in..Noticed steel gear on the diff also..Looks new..I am going too start to take it apart and see if
any internal damage to the gears..I do not now how to post pictures here in the forum...In some of the replies ...It was suggested plastic,or alum outter case..Is there a steel one for this?
Ok.. my sons ordered all new bearing for me....Ok can't wait to get this beast fired up....Thank You..Roger

Lars from Norway

Yep,there is a stainless steel for this one.Can take way more beating than the aluminium one.But the inner housing which holds the gears in place is either plastic or aluminium.Hope the bevel gears inside is ok then!

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

Does your blue diff look like this upgraded one from Duratrax?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHUB2&P=Z

Is just the sleeve damaged or is there visible damage to the case? If it's just the sleeve then you may be okay. I got a nice sized rock stuck between my diff an chassis plate once and it put a nice dent in my alloy FG sleeve but the diff still works.

slawhammer

Kengen..yes it looks just like that one you posted.I will try too post a picture..to show damage..
Lars..thanks for the info on the steel sleeve case..
Ok tryed to up load photo not sure if it took or not
Roger


EDIT For spelling....

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

Looks like it caught a rock like mine. My limited-slip FG diff has a big rib all the way around in the middle so it probably helped limit the damage.

If the truck moves freely without any rubbing noise from the diff then you probably just need a replacement sleeve. Once you get the old sleeve off the diff internals might be in good shape. The grease might have dirt mixed in if the previous owner ran the diff in that condition in the dirt allowing dirt to get inside. If that's the deal then you might need to clean out the old grease and put in new. If you can avoid it try not to take the bevel gears out because it is a real pain in the neck to get it back together.

You might be able to use the sleeve that comes with the plastic diff on that alloy unit. The two sleeves look very similar.

slawhammer

OK..It took some doing but I got the rear diff out of the truck..Had too cut the sleeve off the housing...I lucked out..the internal gears are ok ..no damage..even clean grease
Question 1 is there a O-ring on the end where the 2 small screws hold the sleeve from sliding off....
Question 2 the diff cups are split these have splines on them..Would this be called inboard cup?
Question 3 on the lower control arm the end eyes are broken that connect too the chassie..
Also looks like the drive cups for the wheels are worn pretty bad...Wheel bearings are rough...The square adp bolcks look good...
UPDATE: my sons ordered all the bearing last nite for me..Oh yeah..both my son's said they would get the metal gears for me..pinion (19) spur(46) or (48) not sure on the spur gear..I had too pull the airfilter and carb off..gaskets look new..do you suggest using a little rtv copper sealent when reinstalling or just get new gaskets...
Oh almost forgot this the small wedge under chassie to prtoect the diff gear is broken....
Thank you so much for your help..I can't wait to fire this beast up....
Roger

csp1971

Hi Roger. I have an Firehammer MT as well.

Question 1, yes, there is an O-Ring, as for the size, I'm not certain. These could be it: [link=http://O-Rings]http://www.innovativehobby.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=588[/link]
Question 2, TowerHobbies calls them the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHTT4&P=7]Differential Outdrives[/link].

Question 3, [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPMS4&P=7]Tower Drive Stubs[/link], as for the lower control arm "end eyes", are you talking about these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=DTXC6187&P=7

I don't believe you need to use any RTV around the carb or aircleaner gaskets.

The spur gear is 48 tooth. The Pinion is 19 tooth. If you decide to with a steel pinion, great price here:

http://www.innovativehobby.com/index...OD&ProdID=1015

As for the small wedge, I think you are referring to this:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHTW0&P=7

Hope some of this helps. If any of it is wrong, I'm certain another user will chime in. I'm not too sure about the O-Ring on the diff....

Good luck!

csp


Edit: If you are rebuilding your diff, you might check this link out ([link=http://www.****************.com/fg-modellsport-monster-truck/fg-mt-differential-rebuild/]Diff Rebuild[/link]), it's a great tutorial. It refers to an FG but the FH/Smartech is the same diff pretty much. Since it references another forum it might get removed. But it was helpful when I rebuilt mine.

Foxy

As above, only I'm pretty sure you need the 44t spur with the 19 tooth pinion, at least, that's how it is with FG, maybe not the FH, I dunno, I just thought I'd throw that out there.

csp1971

Different:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHTU9&P=ML

You can see the "48" imprinted on the Spur Gear. Anything else won't mesh.

The spur/pinion sold at Innovative is also a 19/48 tooth combo.

Foxy

Fair enough. Just checking. As I say, that's how they are on the FG, and I thought it was a pretty close clone, guess I was wrong. Thanks for the correction.

Lars from Norway

No no,FG has 16/48,18/46,20/44,22/40 and so on.

Foxy

slawhammer

Wow ..only thing I can is want a great bunch of guys you all are...
after reading all the gear stuff..I went to Duratrac site..suggested gears on firehammer:Pinion 19 Spur:48 Transfer 14 Diff48..Yes this will give more top end ..but will loose on the lower end..
here is the latest UPDATE:Alum diff cover,Diff cups,Both steel gears pinion 19 spur 48,Kill switch to use on transmitter,wedge skid plate,Cone shaped air filter/vol stack,eye ends for lower control arm..
My sons ordered these items just a few minutes ago.....I have a spectrum DX3 I use for my nitro truck..I have extra rec I can use in this firehammer...So now it will be the waiting game for the parts to arrive.
I really do welcome the help you have given me so far...Like I said I can't wait to run this beast...Only other thing I can think of maybe is some kind of wheel adapter for 23mm hubs..I could use those from my nitro truck..nice pro line 40 series chyanne wheels awsome tires mounted on those wheels...So I am all set now..will have to wait till winter for any more upgrades too the firehammer...
many many thanks too you all for the replies...makes this old man feel like a kid again...
Roger

Lars from Norway

I dont understand how to put a 19 pinion and 44 spur on a FG if thats what you mean.They wont mesh up,but mess up..