drewcrew6

Does anyone know the reliability of this when used in an rc? The one I have is a a toro 106-3956. After very little runtime the main gear has begun to strip. The pinion shaft was tightened to pull it straight in the bearing. However I have a sprocket on the pinion shaft and am wondering is that to much sideloading? OR has this idea failed and I just can't find the thread on it?

Hoping to hear from someone using a toro in any config concerning reliability and durability.

Thanks
Drewcrew6

bentley marshall

it could be the bearing that has let go ......in the mower they come out of runs a belt set up much like your sprocket set up
have you got any pics of your set up ??

im building a MT with these diffs bit havent finished it or run it yet

drewcrew6

Currently have it ripped apart and no before pics. Should re-assemble it this weekend with a new gearbox. One thing I did notice after looking close is with the stock shims the main shaft going thru has enough sideplay to move far enough away from the pinion to only have half the depth of the teeth engaged. Going to play around with shimming the pinion on the inside and/or the main shaft. Just worried about the bushing on the mainshaft by the shim wearing and creating play after getting some runtime on it. Would really like to get a gearbox that had a bearing in there.

Another thought is to oversize the bushing on the shaft and run a sleeve in there out to a collar so the assembly does not need taken apart to adjust the sideplay.

Is anyone running these boxes regularly?

Drewcrew6

SAVAGEJIM

I wish I could say more about these gear boxes. They are simple and look hardy, but I would say to take the fater RPMs of RC application, you would definitely have to replace all the seal bushings with ball bearings.

Additionally, I would look at the gears inside. Are they machined from hardened steel? Or are they cast? If they are cast, they suck and will not stand up to RC use. (At least not for too long).

Also, what is the gear ratio? If the gear reduction ratio is too high, that combined with cast gears could spell disaster as you will strip teeth.
Sorry to burst your bubble, but these are some of the pitfalls I can think of.

Mudgy

yep. agricultural use = fat guy sitting on top of ride on mower = hi torque low rpm hi load.
RC use = no weight, but high rpm w/low load.
If the gears are cast rubbish metal, then you could have some dramas - hopefully they are steel.
I suppose shimming the innards to stop lateral play would help with getting a constant mesh.
Do these G/boxes have bushes, or bearings?
If bushed, maybe a tapered reamer needs to be used to get to a press-fit axial/needle bearing in there?
Ask your bearing supplier about AX type bearings...like a flanged bush, but a needle bearing with an axial bearing on the flange part - ever seen one?
May help, i dunno

cheers,

drewcrew6

I'm not sure what the gears are. The pinion appears cast but is very hard, does not show marks when hitting lightly with a punch. However the ring gear shows marks reasonably easy when lightly hitting with a punch but appears machined. The boxes gear reduction is 3:1, I am currently running #35 chain from a shaft off the motor to the gearbox overall ratio is about 8.7:1 with 10" tires. The gearboxes have a bearing on the pinion but bushes on the output.
I don't believe I have ever seen an ax bearing at least not by that description. Do they make an ax bearing that is 1/2 id and 3/4 od ? I would have to take more measurments for all the specs. As far as my bearing supplier it is the web. When I searched ax bearings I couldn't find one that has a flange , they all looked like needle roller bearings and some needed an inner race. Unless you meant a thrust bearing?

Thanks
Drewcrew6

bsrman14

You need more Hp or a lower gear ratio. The gears in the Toro gear box are cast. So your best bet is lower the gearing to take the load off the gears. A 1:4 or 1:5 at the axle is the best for a 10" tire.

hitecrcman

Smaller tires

bsrman14

I forgot to add that.