problems with my baja
02-19-2009, 08:51 AM
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problems with my baja
i just got my baja about a week ago the first time i run it it would bog down like like it was being flooded but would only do it once it got a distance of about 15 to 20 yds away and after running about half a tank of gas through it started to flood out and quit on me would like to know if anyone can give me an idea what might be the problem i was thinking it might be the carb needing adjusting since i was running it in pretty cold weather but didnt think it would only do it once it got that distance away any help would be appreciated thanks
02-19-2009, 09:50 AM
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RE: problems with my baja
try changing the plug and leaning out the high end a little bit not too much.
Run it for a while and see what happens.
Others can help you better here but that is where I would start.
Run it for a while and see what happens.
Others can help you better here but that is where I would start.
02-19-2009, 10:49 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
this will help lean is clockwise and rich is counter clockwise,heres a vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tMUfbQCzI8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tMUfbQCzI8
02-20-2009, 02:43 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
ORIGINAL: dodginbulls05
its a clone
its a clone
1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position).
2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open.
3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open.
4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.
Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin driving, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.
2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open.
3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open.
4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.
Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin driving, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.
Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:
If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.
If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.
If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.
If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.
What are the recommended carburetor needle settings for my engine?
DDM recommends the following tuning as a STARTING POINT for tuning your engine:
G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 engines: 1 and 1/4 L, 1 and 3/8 H.
If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.
If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.
If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.
If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.
What are the recommended carburetor needle settings for my engine?
DDM recommends the following tuning as a STARTING POINT for tuning your engine:
G230RC / G260RC / CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 engines: 1 and 1/4 L, 1 and 3/8 H.
02-20-2009, 10:44 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
Wait a minute here it only happens when you've been running for awhile and it's at a distance from you? Not if it's closer to you? Sounds like a possible radio problem. Are you using a fresh 5 cell sub-C reciever pack charged up with at least 3000mah? The reason I ask this is I had an older pack in my FG and the high current draw of the steering servo would cause the throttle servo to lose response at times causing the same type of thing. Next time you run it with the body off and maybe have a friend help you check if this is happening. If not and the plug is good I would want to either blame the carb or the coil. Good luck! 
03-10-2009, 04:46 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
ORIGINAL: budman10
good luck with that junk
ORIGINAL: dodginbulls05
its a clone
its a clone
03-10-2009, 08:52 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
just an idea hope it,s not what i think, check the gasket between the head and the engine case .because clone engines tend to burn or break the gaskets there.your car has a fail safe fitted to the throttle servo or no?
03-11-2009, 07:56 AM
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RE: problems with my baja
yeah it came with a cheap fail safe but i figured out the problem when they installed the reciever the wire was just about cut into i had plans of replacing it anyway with a spectrum dx2 and reciever once i did that i have had no problems with it thanks for your help
03-11-2009, 06:17 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
If you can, get a DX3, because sooner of later you will WANT that third channel for the electronic remotely operated kill switch.
Going 2.4GHz is not bad at all, you will from the very start notice that alot of glitching will be squashed (like twitching servos, etc)
Moreover, Spektrum RXs, ALL of them, have a programable built-in failsafe. I dont know about the DSM2, but on the DSM1, the failsafe should be programmed with a slightly higher voltage, because on my DSM RXs, I noticed that if the voltage gets too low because the FS was preprogrammed to kick in at a lower V, the FS wont work at all! (Not enough juice to make it do its thing).
Going 2.4GHz is not bad at all, you will from the very start notice that alot of glitching will be squashed (like twitching servos, etc)
Moreover, Spektrum RXs, ALL of them, have a programable built-in failsafe. I dont know about the DSM2, but on the DSM1, the failsafe should be programmed with a slightly higher voltage, because on my DSM RXs, I noticed that if the voltage gets too low because the FS was preprogrammed to kick in at a lower V, the FS wont work at all! (Not enough juice to make it do its thing).
03-12-2009, 12:34 AM
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RE: problems with my baja
ORIGINAL: Z-Rider
Why do you refer to it as junk? Just wondering as the KM version from what I have seen and been told uses 90% of the parts from HPI. I guess my HPI is junk to then.[&o]
ORIGINAL: budman10
good luck with that junk
ORIGINAL: dodginbulls05
its a clone
its a clone
The KM motors are of low quality..
I had one go out durring the 3rd tank.
03-12-2009, 01:15 AM
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RE: problems with my baja
This is important because the clone motors are not as good as the CY.
The clones and hpi are for the most part .... the same ....but the motors are not even close. The cy in the HPI baja is much much better.
I picked up a clone for $250 for my x-wifes boy and its started out ok, but its slowing down,loosing power. ...and i checked everything,head gaskt,carb,plu ...all that junk. ...but its goingto need a motor ...also my HPI baja is chugging along now as good as day 1
If you figure it out you will need a CY motor anyway....check ebay for a 26cc motor,...yol be happy as hell.
The clones and hpi are for the most part .... the same ....but the motors are not even close. The cy in the HPI baja is much much better.
I picked up a clone for $250 for my x-wifes boy and its started out ok, but its slowing down,loosing power. ...and i checked everything,head gaskt,carb,plu ...all that junk. ...but its goingto need a motor ...also my HPI baja is chugging along now as good as day 1
If you figure it out you will need a CY motor anyway....check ebay for a 26cc motor,...yol be happy as hell.
03-13-2009, 10:44 AM
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RE: problems with my baja
ORIGINAL: dodginbulls05
i just got my baja about a week ago the first time i run it it would bog down like like it was being flooded but would only do it once it got a distance of about 15 to 20 yds away and after running about half a tank of gas through it started to flood out and quit on me would like to know if anyone can give me an idea what might be the problem i was thinking it might be the carb needing adjusting since i was running it in pretty cold weather but didnt think it would only do it once it got that distance away any help would be appreciated thanks
i just got my baja about a week ago the first time i run it it would bog down like like it was being flooded but would only do it once it got a distance of about 15 to 20 yds away and after running about half a tank of gas through it started to flood out and quit on me would like to know if anyone can give me an idea what might be the problem i was thinking it might be the carb needing adjusting since i was running it in pretty cold weather but didnt think it would only do it once it got that distance away any help would be appreciated thanks
03-13-2009, 12:03 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
Check the carb gasket like montioned and also check for oil around the bottom of the head where the head gasket is.
There are problems there from what I have been reading.
Hope you can find the problem
remember Zenoah makes an awesome engine
There are problems there from what I have been reading.
Hope you can find the problem
remember Zenoah makes an awesome engine
03-13-2009, 08:07 PM
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RE: problems with my baja
hey guys, first off i have both the hpi and then recently also bought the km baja. its funny everyone bashes the clone and says they are not as good and the quality is not up to par. i had the same problem he did when i got mine and all i have to say is you need to have some mechanical ability when owning one of these regardless if its the 5b or the km. i have had my fair share of problems with both. first off the km engine is good if you know what to look for and when, the thing i noticed after four tanks was i was losing power and my first thought was a carb leak and it turned out the cylinder needed to be retorqued to factory specs. after running for awhile the heat causes expansion and contraction of all the metal parts on the motor so you have to periodically check the engine until completely broke in. i tightened mine up and also tightened up the carb to ensure a tight seal there and also got almost a full turn out of both bolts, this also applies for the tuned pipe. you just have to go over these things each and every time you run them or before putting them away to check for loose fasteners.
the only other problems i have seen with these engines is guys take them apart looking for the problem and dont see anything and put it back together not knowing you have to line up the piston ring a certain way or you will lose about 60% of youre compression. the bearings also wear pretty fast at the crank but the rpm's these are turning you should expect that. i have replaced the crank bearings in my baja 3 times and it has about 28 tanks ran through it. i have also crashed my km multiple times and have yet to break it, but my hpi got caught up on my fence in my back yard and it busted both the upper and lower a-arms and it was at 3/4 throttle so even the name brand can be broke easily. the shocks on the km are far less superior than the hpi but with alittle drilling and a fluid change in the km shocks they are almost identically matched with the baja. the chassis is the same and some of the plastics are made heavier on the km like the a-arm's for example.
the main reason companies make knock-off's or clone's isnt just to make a buck but to make a unit that is affordable to the guy who cant afford $1000.00 right away. you can buy the km and when you have the cash you can then start upgrading to better parts and making it faster. with me driving my 5b and my brother who is inexperienced driving any r/c buggy driving the km on a straight flat surface they both were right next to each other until the 5b hit about 200 feet and then it slowly pulled away.
my friend at HEATHOBBY and i are going to prove that when people give feedback on the km we will take it to the source and do everything we can to get them to address the problem in a timely manner. we are also striving to be the best with help after the sale as far as technical questions and service.
i have been in the r/c hobby for 23 years and have been tinkering with small engines since i was 15 and with any engine you will have youre share of problems eventually. the thing i dont understand is that EVERY km that has been sold or will be sold is test run before it is boxed up for shipping. i say test run not test driven, anyone who buys one can tell by taking the plug out and looking at the cylinder walls, they do not send out a buggy without knowing wether or not it will run when purchased i guarantee it. the owner of km is working closely with his sellers to make a better product and fix current problems that they may have.
if you have any questions or complaints wether they be large or small you should let me know so i can forward them on to the company to help them correct the issues you may be having. or if you just would like to see something designed different or maybe a better way to design it then let me know. the only way things can be changed is when they are made aware of.
feel free to email me with whatever you might need and i will respond as soon as i can([email protected])
the only other problems i have seen with these engines is guys take them apart looking for the problem and dont see anything and put it back together not knowing you have to line up the piston ring a certain way or you will lose about 60% of youre compression. the bearings also wear pretty fast at the crank but the rpm's these are turning you should expect that. i have replaced the crank bearings in my baja 3 times and it has about 28 tanks ran through it. i have also crashed my km multiple times and have yet to break it, but my hpi got caught up on my fence in my back yard and it busted both the upper and lower a-arms and it was at 3/4 throttle so even the name brand can be broke easily. the shocks on the km are far less superior than the hpi but with alittle drilling and a fluid change in the km shocks they are almost identically matched with the baja. the chassis is the same and some of the plastics are made heavier on the km like the a-arm's for example.
the main reason companies make knock-off's or clone's isnt just to make a buck but to make a unit that is affordable to the guy who cant afford $1000.00 right away. you can buy the km and when you have the cash you can then start upgrading to better parts and making it faster. with me driving my 5b and my brother who is inexperienced driving any r/c buggy driving the km on a straight flat surface they both were right next to each other until the 5b hit about 200 feet and then it slowly pulled away.
my friend at HEATHOBBY and i are going to prove that when people give feedback on the km we will take it to the source and do everything we can to get them to address the problem in a timely manner. we are also striving to be the best with help after the sale as far as technical questions and service.
i have been in the r/c hobby for 23 years and have been tinkering with small engines since i was 15 and with any engine you will have youre share of problems eventually. the thing i dont understand is that EVERY km that has been sold or will be sold is test run before it is boxed up for shipping. i say test run not test driven, anyone who buys one can tell by taking the plug out and looking at the cylinder walls, they do not send out a buggy without knowing wether or not it will run when purchased i guarantee it. the owner of km is working closely with his sellers to make a better product and fix current problems that they may have.
if you have any questions or complaints wether they be large or small you should let me know so i can forward them on to the company to help them correct the issues you may be having. or if you just would like to see something designed different or maybe a better way to design it then let me know. the only way things can be changed is when they are made aware of.
feel free to email me with whatever you might need and i will respond as soon as i can([email protected])
