splcrazy

i put these kill switches in my two 5b's and my friends FG MT , so now im having problems with one of the switches in my 5b , while the engine is running and i full throttle it up and down the street the engine will run irregualr sometimes when i accelerate and its the switch , i drove it back to me lifted the car back wheels in the air and pressed the trigger to accelerate and i see the led green light flicker on and off , this is causing the spark plug to cut out when the green light flickers on and off .

do you guys think its a bad connection from within the switch, or vibration , or something else

frumpy

Sounds more like a loose connection somewhere[X(]

SAVAGEJIM

I have not seen a Killer Bee switch, nor do I know how they are designed internally. Can you post a pic?
If you can disassemble it, can you post a pic of the innards of this switch?

I know all kill switches are pretty much designed the same internally, but what makes one design different from another is the amount of material used inside, and what type or material is used inside. Weak flimsy material used to make the short-circuitry is terrible, but good robust material designed properly to make the short-circuit is what is desired.

If vibrations are causing the short-circuit to short because the gate is constantly closing from normal engine vibration, the switch is not up for the task.

As part of the inner design of these things, electronic kill switches rely on electro-magnets to operate the short-circuit gate.
I doubt that induction from the magneto might be a cause, but considering that it only takes 4.8V to power that tiny electro-magnet, if the magneto is close enough to the kill switch, the EM fields produced just might induce a sufficient enough current to create the 4.8V to cause your switch to close the short-circuit gate. And since the flywheel magnet spins, that could explain the pulsing of your switch flicking on and off as that short circuit gate is closing and opening.
This is only a guess on my art; I have no clue if the flywheel magnet and spark plug magneto coil generate enough of an EM field to cause inductance sufficient to affect your switch.

If EM induction is the cause of your switch's errant behavior, try relocating the switch itself far away from the engine.

frumpy

I think this is the link to Kent's site

www.killerrc.com

mooman007uk

I see he's using a different switch nowKiller b used to be PB. I've never had any problems with my old pb switches from Kent. sounds like it may be faulty...i doubt the magneto is interfering with it as these switches are power on unlike others meaning that they require power to stay in the on position so if the lights flickering i'd guess there's a loose connection on the board somewhere...i'd email Kent with the problem ...i'm sure he'll sort you out.

splcrazy

i just emailed kent about it , ill have to wait till they answer back , i may have to go over the whole thing and check the wires , i had to reset the coil gap but i dont think thats got anything do do with it , the other two rc's i had to reset the gap aswell cos i had to take off the coil to insert the kill switch wires , and they both work perfect except for this this one switch

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Been out of it for a few months and just realized Kent changed the name of his company. [X(] From my experience Kent is a great person and makes great products. I am sure he will be able to help. Keep us posted on what you find out.

splcrazy

Forgot to mention that my radio that im using for both my 5b's is a spektrum DX3R and i have both the same switches installed in both 5b's and the switch works PERFECT in one 5b and not the other , yeah so now when the rc is down the street the engine keeps stuttering on and off cos the switch green light is flickering on and off as i accelerate off from a standing point. Everything is recharged fully also , i wil have to go over the wireing tonight and take it out for another test run after work tommorow night thats wednesday . it might be the two red and black wires that get inserted into the unit then screwed in , it might be inserted too far in and clamped onto the outer plastic instead of the copper wire thats my guess anyway. Gotta say i never had a runaway or glitching using the DX3R before this .

splcrazy

ok so straight after work today i take out the 5b for a run , and its running perfectly the kill switch green light is on no troubles . so i killed the engine manually my self by pressing the red button on the 5b , then turn off the radio and reciever aswell , then just by chance i go to start the 5b without turning on the radio and the 5b fires up lol and runs perfectly again only to find out the the switch does not work at all now , the green light turns on but doesnt kill the engine when i turn the radio off and doesnt kill the engine by pressing the aux either, so im gonna have to take it all apart again now to see what the hell happened.

splcrazy

SWITCH IS NOW DEAD , i cheked out every possibility that could be wrong with it and its a DUD , i even tested it out on a spare dx3r reciever that i have and it does not work , the green light will not stay on , the green light will only blink on when i power up the reciever then goes dead , the settings on the dx3r is 100%correct as how kent explained me to set it at ,and it works beautifull on my other 5b no problems and my mates FGMT , so yeah 1 out of three switches that i bought is a dud .

csp1971

Did Kent get back with you? I would guess he is going to replace it. That bites. I PM'ed you thinking I had a problem with mine. I'm thinking my problem was a very low battery. It seems to be working fine now. Let us know what he says.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Is it the electrical board bad or the mechanical kill switch its self? Even if the electrical board was bad the mechanical switch should still work if I understand what you are saying I think. Can you kill the engine with the mechanical switch? Yes I recommend you contact Kent. I have been talking to him on HBF about his new RX battery.

splcrazy

yes he offered to send me out a new one in return for the faulty one , but i said to him i cant send him the old one cos i got my big steel mallet and flatened it like a pancake in anger lol, so ill wait for his reply on that . I just said look dont worry ill just buy another one its no big deal .


and no the switch does not work at all , when the green light was on and i tried to kill the engine via transmitter it didnt work , same goes when the green light stopped working . i could only kill the engine by pressing the big red button on the 5b .

SAVAGEJIM

LOL, can you post a pic of the smashed relay switch? That is just classic!

Now, if you send that to him, it definitely will not work (ever again).

Regardless, I hope you can get some sort of service. I know how you feel, when something fails and there is no remedy to get it to work again, I too want to smash it to smithereens.

Killer RC

My products all have a 1 year warranty, but I'm afraid that getting smashed with a hammer is not covered under warranty. LOL.
I will offer you a replacement at half price though. Just email me.

TheFgMan01

Wow lots of intresting **** comes out like this new to me killer bee switch.. ive been gone too long

nothinbetr2do

kent, i've always said you are the man. when it comes to killswitches, yours can't be beat. and you have great customer service. well done, my man. by the way, welcome over here. you should of used your pb2themax, hbf screen name. but all is good. by the way, all the killswitches i got from you are still working perfectly

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Get a chance got to Kent's web site and check out his new LIFE RX batteries. Light holds there voltage as good as a LIPO but much safer.

magnum57

I installed the #3 kit and added the led’s on my 4x4 rampage and one in a FG. This switch is probably the best investment I have made . I have owned over 50 large-scale trucks, cars, boats and messed up plenty. Life is good now. I never thought to invest in the kill aspect when I had the so called fail safe built in my radios. I use the Futaba 3PK and my son has the 3pn all 2.4GHz.. I installed Tony’s EKG kill switch in my 55” rc boat that has a Zenoah G260. It also is a great invention. Anyway. Thanks to the guys who keep us from mangling our toys and stops us from hurting someone. Kent thanks for the help in getting me sorted out. Your product rocks. Keep up the good work.

http://www.youtube.com/user/cortrigh.../1/Bij40pLJsGc

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I keep telling every one the number one up grade for a large scale is a kill switch. The best insurance money can buy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will not even start mine with out one.

splcrazy

i got another switch but something else is pissing me off now lol , sometimes it will kill the engine when it goes too far but it doesnt seem that far , i mean when i didnt have the switch installed i could make it go twice the distance with still radio reception to controll it , but the switch seems too sensative when it detects the signal going weak too soon , does anybody know what im talking about, or experienced what im talking about when you have this switch installed

magnum57

what control system are you using. i had a r603fs 2.4GHz receiver have the external antenna go bad so i was only getting the internal to work. my truck would go around 80' and dye. new receiver and now it will go as far as i can handle before i cant see it any more.

mooman007uk

Don't know if your handset will allow you to change the failsafe mode in ch 3, I got a react and have the inbuilt failsafe set to come on with loss of signal/interference steer straight brake on and the failsafe stays ON so i don't have to walk a mile to restart if I were to go out of range (not happened yet...can't see that far), my kill switch only turns off with low or loss of batt power.

magnum57

I have the 3PK and is it possible for the failsafe to work with the kill switch in ppm or pcm mode or will it need to be in hrs mode to program the failsafe to work hand in hand with the killer bee switch. Not sure if the react is the same type 2.4GHz set up.

mooman007uk

the react sounds easier, my ch3 can be set to hold or whatever you set the value at at the time of failure in any mode so i have it set on toggle switch and to hold position upon failure...