Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345
Results 101 to 119 of 119

  1. #101
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post
    Nice! So the ballast rod again is a solid rod replacing the black wing attaching one? Sorry if I forgot. I might have to try something like that...

    I had a similar experience at the club on Thursday. Was a lot of fun catching the wind rides. We had a big thermal at the south end of the field too that another guy and I would resort to during other pilot's takeoffs. Was nice. I got about 45min on 1.5 batteries. Used a lot of full throttle to keep ahead of some of the gas and nitro planes. Then when I got around to the south end, I would let them go by. Worked well.


    Mulligan- Thanks! Took awhile but definitely worth it! I can now spread the word about Rustoleum on Z foam...
    My ballast rod is a smooth steel rod that I place INSIDE the normal wing rod. Mine is only about 1/2 the diameter of the hole in the wing rod. You could get one that fills it. Just slides in and out of the wing rod when I want to use it. I have electrical tape on the ends to take up the extra space so it does not bang around.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  2. #102
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Cool! I will have to try that! So if I use like a 1/4" solid steel rod it shouldn't be too heavy? Or should I use like a 3/16" or 1/8"?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  3. #103
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    4,995
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Wow! What a nice job you did on your Radian!!! I bet it's easier to see against the sky now too. Looks like some strengthening mods to the elevator and wing? area? Nothing more relaxing that hooking a nice thermal. Funny how 90% of the nitro guys haven't a clue about that. Please send me an email when you get a chance...... Ernie Misner at: rpm14k@aol.com Thanks a bunch.

  4. #104
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post
    Cool! I will have to try that! So if I use like a 1/4" solid steel rod it shouldn't be too heavy? Or should I use like a 3/16" or 1/8"?
    1/4" is a good start. I think mine is 5/16 but not really sure. You will see that the glider flies about the same but the glide is faster so it handles wind better.

    My suggestion is to try in in fairly calm conditions first to convince yourself that this is not going to make your Radian go wild. It really doesn't.

    I have a high end all molded Supra, 64 oz. I have ballasted that pure glider up to 100 ounces. Flies the same, just faster. Much higher sink rate but in a 25 mph wind it is like there is no wind at all.
    Last edited by aeajr; 06-15-2014 at 07:23 PM.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  5. #105
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Awesome, I will get a pack of these then! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR940&P=7

    Or eBay is a bit cheaper considering the $5 shipping fee at Tower: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Music-Wire-1...item4d1f2f043f
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  6. #106
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I get mine at Home Depot. Walk in, pick a rod, take it home and cut it.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  7. #107
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  8. #108
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Yep, that's what I use.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  9. #109
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    How exactly did you use the electrical tape to hold it in? I have my own idea using electrical tape, but want to compare it to what you are doing. If mine works I'll share it. Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
    My ballast rod is a smooth steel rod that I place INSIDE the normal wing rod. Mine is only about 1/2 the diameter of the hole in the wing rod. You could get one that fills it. Just slides in and out of the wing rod when I want to use it. I have electrical tape on the ends to take up the extra space so it does not bang around.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  10. #110
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I wrap it around the end of the steel rod so that it fills up the void. It is just so it doesn't rattle around too much.

    You could tape over the end of the wing rod to secure it inside if you like. I have not found the need for that.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  11. #111
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    That's pretty much what I did. After multiple attempts to get the right amount of tape on there, the rod stiffly slides in and out. The tape is just the right diameter to make it a tight fit and stay nice and tight in there. I have to shake the wing rod vertically real hard to get the steel rod to come out. It's perfect! Thanks for the tip on this whole deal. Can't wait to try it out at the field either tomorrow or Thursday.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  12. #112
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    ....and forget the flying field..... went there and nobody was around. Went later and still nobody around. I did find that the steel rod limits the flex of the fiberglass wing rod. I've noticed when flying that the flexing of the wing rod and wings is part of the design. Is the steel rod going to limit the flex to the point of changing the flying experience and way it flies?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  13. #113
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Not that I have noticed. Of course the only time I use the ballast rod is in windy or gusty conditions when a little stiffer wing might be an advantage.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  14. #114
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Well, I tried out my ballast rods. I bought one 1/4" one and one 5/16". I tried them out in a low wind area at the flying club. I tried the 1/4" first and it seemed to give the airplane a much quicker and snappier feel, which I liked. Then I tried the 5/16". It flew, but not very well. On a turn or when a gust would lift one side of the plane, having so much weight in the wings caused the plane to rock back and forth for awhile until it stabilized. I didn't like that. The larger diameter rod and it's weight also caused the Radian to drop out of the sky much more quickly on really slow passes. I almost crashed a couple times when I wasn't paying a lot of attention because I expected to have more time before it fell far enough to have to fly back up again. I've done a few more flights since then and have decided that the 1/4" is the best. I will be using that quite often, except when thermaling.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  15. #115
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    The heavier the plane the faster it has to fly to stay in the air. So, when you have the ballast in the Radian it has to fly faster than when you don't. If you are getting wing rocking you are flying right at the stall speed. give it a click of down elevator to keep the speed up.

    Likewise when landing you will have to land a little faster or it will stall.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  16. #116
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    For those of you who are experienced glider pilots, what I am going to post here is quite obvious. For those who are coming from electric airplanes and just getting their first taste of thermal soaring sailplanes this may not be so obvious.

    How do you get longer flights with a Radian or Radian Pro?

    You may feel that going to a larger battery pack would get you longer flights. Well, yes, if you go from a 1300 mah pack to a 2200 or 3000 mah pack, this will give you more motor run time. However it might give you shorter flights.

    If it makes your glider heavier it will make it harder for you to get it to climb in a thermal. And, if it shifts you CG forward because it is longer, it may make it harder for you to see lift. And if you have to add weight to the tail to offset that weight in the nose you get heavier still. So a bigger pack will give you more motor run time but will likely give you a shorter flight time if it throws off your CG or increases your weight.

    If you are moving to a larger battery to add weight for windy conditions, that is fine. Make sure it remains balanced.

    The way to get longer flights with a Radian or a Radian Pro is to learn to use the glider to read the air. Don't fly it, watch it. Use it as a probe, a sensor to identify lift and learn to work it. Once you learn to do this your flights will get longer and longer.

    I don't have a Pro, I have a Radian and other e-gliders. I wanted longer flights so I went from the stock 1300 15C battery to a 1000 40C pack. I gave up 30% of my battery capacity but I also dropped an ounce of weight. I wanted longer flights and was willing to give up motor run time to get those longer flights. My Radian can rise in lighter lift and can show me lift easier with the lighter pack.

    If this doesn't make sense to you, consider how a thermal soaring glider is intended to fly. That motor is only a lunch device. The expectation is that most of the flight will be with the power off, riding the natural energy in the air, thermals. If that is how you intend to fly, consider my note. Now flight times are tied to air conditions and your talent.

    May the force of warm rising air be with you.
    Last edited by aeajr; 07-30-2014 at 04:54 PM.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  17. #117
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    4,995
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    That is a good post that makes sense. How much lighter was the 1000mah pack? Were you able to move it forward to get the same CG? I have been flying my tiny UMX Radian and it thermals like a bandit!!!!!!!!! Getting close to 30 minute flights with thermals and throttle management. Not bad for a 130mah battery!

  18. #118
    Moderator aeajr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    8,186
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Actually I have weight on the tail of my Radian to get the CG I want. With the stock prop I had 1 quarter (coin) taped on the tail. When I went to the 10X8 and the 1000 mah pack I went to 2 quarters on the tail. When I went to the 11X8 prop I am running now I went to three quarters on the tail. I think the 1000 saved me about 3/4 ounce as I recall. I no longer have one of the green parkzone packs so I can't compare.
    Long Island Silent Flyers
    www.lisf.org
    Eastern Soaring League
    www.flyesl.com

  19. #119
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,017
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Well, there goes my nice paint job on my Radian. I crashed it. It went full speed straight down (I cut the throttle just before the impacts) into the top of a 60 foot Maple tree. The tree had like a 4ft trunk, so it had many large limbs. I stood there frozen as I watched it fall from the top of the tree to the bottom. I heard 7 loud, distinct impacts of my Radian hit each branch. Those seven impacts put 7 dents/holes/scrapes in my plane. I made four mistakes.

    I attempted a series of rolls/flips/loops including upside down flying:

    1. without a reasonable amount of altitude.
    2. a long distance away.
    3. near large Maple trees.
    4. without my glasses.

    I lost orientation of it and it appeared to be going away from me upside down. It was really near the top of the tree, so I pushed some down elevator hard. It was actually upright, so the strong down elevator took it straight down with full throttle into the tree/limbs. As soon as I saw that it was too late to save, I cut the throttle and let her fall. She already had TONS of airspeed...

    Now, you can imagine that something like that might total a plane. I though so too until I got over to it. I was lucky it actually made it to the bottom and not stuck in the tree. After doing a full evaluation of the damage, I found that the crash had torn a crack through the fuselage part that goes over the wings, broke the left wing in half at the end of the ballast rod, shattered a LOT of paint from the flexing, took some foam out of the side of the fuselage near the firewall, dented the horizontal tail wing, lifted a couple decals, and pulled a pushrod/sheathing from it's channel in the fuselage. I am working on repairing it now. I picked up a new set of wings and have already got part of the painted design painted on the bottom of them. I also glued all the broken seams and decals down on the fuselage. I want to make all these repairs in less than a week and having her flying by Thursday. Unfortunately it won't be the same, but at least I won't be too crushed next time it crashes as it's not perfect anymore, nor will that fuselage ever be.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2


Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:47 AM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.