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AFI Super Monterey Rebuild/Recreation

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Old 12-05-2014, 09:19 AM
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skylark-flier
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Default AFI Super Monterey Rebuild/Recreation

Hey y'all! The sawtable is clear from my Sr. Falcon restoration so it's time to start the next "restoration". This one's a bit different from the Falcon - I've basically got just bits and pieces to work with. However, it's a plane and it's in need of care - so here we go. As with the Sr. Falcon, I'm going to run a "build" thread - primarily to keep everything straight in my own mind, but also because I'm going to need a bit of advice here and there.

I recently received the remains of an old AFI Super Monterey and I'm going to rebuild/recreate her over the winter. I don't foresee any insurmountable obstacles, BUT, I plan to power her with electric - and have ZERO experience with electric motors, so I'm going to definitely need some advice when I get to that point - or maybe a lot before that point.

Here's what I'm starting with:

The wings seem to be 100%, the fuse - not so much. Canopy assembly is OK, wing center section is OK, the rest needs "a bit of TLC". This is everything I got, except I also have the full original plans and box. Those plans are going to be recreated/redrawn/traced a couple times so I have something to use as templates for the recreation.

Except for the tail-post (nearest part on the first pic) I plan to use most all the old parts. I'm going to keep the horizontal stab but will recreate the vertical stab, rudder & elevator - they're doped (maybe 1 or 2 coats, very rough) and not in the best of condition anyway. Nose cone is also doped but I'll deal with that as I cut for the electric motor.

First question: neither the box nor instructions show it - does anyone know when the Super Monterey first came out? I'm going to need documentation for when she appears at VR/CS meets.

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Old 12-06-2014, 09:24 AM
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lfinney
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mid to late 70s....if you contact astroflight I am sure they can be more specific..one just sold on ebay last week
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:30 PM
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Yeah, sent them an e-mail about 5 minutes after that first post. Asked about the date and also what motor/esc/battery set-up they'd presently recommend for the plane. I've got ZERO experience with electric motors, this will be a learning experience in that department. Anyway, being that it was on a Friday, I don't expect to hear much from them for awhile.

Spent most of yesterday tracing the original plans on some of my wife's parchment baking paper, for cutting of new wood. Started cutting paper and wood this morning, and the fuse got framed up in about 30 minutes. She's a simple machine, no doubt about that, but it's always fun recovering what others consider a total loss.

Thought I'd be able to use most of that tail section but it's looking like almost everything is going to be new. This is looking more and more like a scratch-build.

But it sure is fun too.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:28 PM
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OK, I've been bad - no pics at all of the cutting/assembly. No excuses, I just got to work and didn't quit. However, today was the first time I put everything together and she's looking pretty good.

Red is original structure, clear balsa is new. Ply floor from nose to wing TE is original too.

At first I thought the rudder & elevators were OK to repair and re-use, but the wood is so soft it just kinda crumbles when I try to work with it, so they're new. Bottom behind the wing TE to tail is still open for installation of radio & control rods/tubes. Rudder & elevator tubes are in the fuse but not anchored yet. Rudder & elevators are also not glued yet - that comes after they're covered. Still need to drill a hole and install the antenna tube somewhere - I'm thinking right under the horizontal stab, left side.

Also, I understand the method of wing attachment (rubber bands inside box), but it's a pain in the tukus so I'm going to cut a hole in the bottom of the fuse wing box and bring the bands through it to an anchor point on the bottom of the box. It'll be a whole lot easier to lock the wings together.

An order to Tower for new red & white monokote will go out right after Christmas. Might just include the electric motor set-up too, if I can figure out which is best for this bird.

Anyway, she's looking more like an airplane every day.
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:29 AM
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Start by weighting the nose until the model balances where it should. Toss in some radio gear more or less where it will go. Then weigh in the model with ballast and gear.

With a target weight now established you can begin picking out a motor and battery pack combo.

Modern practice is to stuff a pack into the model that will provide up to 120watts per lb of RTF weight. But that much power will literally make it climb vertically in an unlimited manner. A more casual climb at around 45 degrees while still not hanging slowly on the prop can be had with something around 70 watts per lb.

When calculating the watts/lb watts equals the pack voltage times the current you run. So the current needed from a 3S Lipo pack is going to be less than what is needed from a 2S pack. So I'd suggest options that involve running a 3S pack.

Another factor is the Kv spec. This is the spec for the motor that indicates how many thousands of RPM you'll get per volt from the pack. It's sort of like the gear ratio of a gear box. On a glider we want to run a larger and slower turning prop that bites into the air well at lower RPM to get a good and efficient climb. So this means we want to select a motor with a lower range of Kv value. On a model like this the sort of motors you'll be looking at will have Kv values of around 900 to 1200. The prop size they will want to run will vary between 11 and 9 inches respectively... more or less. Read up on the motor itself to find what sort of size props are indicated.

You'll likely want to run with a folding prop both for a little cleaner model in the air and to avoid landing damage.

As I recall these things needed a fairly good lump of ballast in the nose to balance. So work hard on keeping the heavier components up front. Some folks suggest a bigger motor just for the added weight. And there's something to be said for that. But don't go so large and heavy that it makes the motor harder to install and shroud with a cowling.

I hope that helps with picking out your motor and pack.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:53 AM
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Wonderful information - I actually saved it on my 'puter. Thanks a WHOLE LOT!! Basically, I'm looking to eventually power it enough to climb smartly but she'll primarily be a sailplane so she'll definitely have a folding prop. Other minor items I'm dealing with are the fact that she'll fly with a 72MHz radio (installed under the wing already) and using a separate battery for the motor (will be under the canopy).

She's ready to fly (as a glider) right now - just waiting for a day above 30 degrees to do the maiden. I found that 5 oz lead in the nose and the regular 4-cell rcvr battery pack as far forward as possible under the canopy balance her perfectly. Once I get to my LHS (95 miles away) and get the motor equipment I can simply put the 4-cell pack back in under the wing with the rest of the radio gear and devote the under-canopy area to the motor equipment. Should be just fine that way. I also cut air/heat exhaust holes into the wing saddle on top and a couple 2"x.25" slots in the floor under the canopy, so she'll have plenty of flowing air to keep the interior heat down. The bulkhead between the canopy & wing already had a large hole cut into it so she's got good flow-through.

Anyway, here she is - still on the work table but ready to fly:
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Last edited by skylark-flier; 02-01-2015 at 11:01 AM.
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