Sig Riser 100 electric Build
#76
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Aquila1954,
You mentioned your fin is off a bit well I noticed this weekend my horizontal stabilizer is off a touch, and I epoxied it on. I've never done that before and I'm not sure how it happened or how much "off" is okay or not and if I should attempt to fix it, it's covered already! Anyways both of my Riser tips appeared to be the same density but your wing tips turned out super nice great job! As for the anti-vortex wing tips, I think I saw a thread not sure where that a guy built it on his Riser. I know I thought about it after seeing HelloScott do his that way on his OlyII build which is the original design for the Oly. Maybe someone can comment on there usefulness but they sure look cool, I decided against it because I didn't want to deal with covering them. Just being lazy
You mentioned your fin is off a bit well I noticed this weekend my horizontal stabilizer is off a touch, and I epoxied it on. I've never done that before and I'm not sure how it happened or how much "off" is okay or not and if I should attempt to fix it, it's covered already! Anyways both of my Riser tips appeared to be the same density but your wing tips turned out super nice great job! As for the anti-vortex wing tips, I think I saw a thread not sure where that a guy built it on his Riser. I know I thought about it after seeing HelloScott do his that way on his OlyII build which is the original design for the Oly. Maybe someone can comment on there usefulness but they sure look cool, I decided against it because I didn't want to deal with covering them. Just being lazy
#77
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I know that the anti-vortex wing tips are a pain to cover, considering I have had 2 Aquila's. My first Aquila was the Standard Class 99". But I don't have have that anymore, I was heart broken when I crashed that. Non-repairable. This happened around 1985. I flew it for about 2 years before. After folding port wing it came straight down from about 600', needless to say from the nose to the wing root all disappeared, into kindling.
I still have my Aquila Grande' though, but I have to remove a dent in the boom behind the trailing edge of the wing. When I had down stairs something was laying on it for about 20 or so years.
I don't think the stabilizer will be affected to much, not like a fin for the rudder. At a glance it looks normal, but looking down the body from the front. You can see it still, not much. But it there, I think it will be taken care of when I glue stabilizer on. This week some time.
I really like these instructions sometimes, like the 2 balsa blocks you put in the wing for the bolt on version. They tell you use a T-Square to line the blocks with. If I kept building for 25 years I might have. But I don't, and I can't afford to go out and buy something like that, since I am on a set income.
Sig assumes every modeler have a full workshop maybe. I don't even have a tap and Die kit. I'm going to see if my neighbor has the one. I wonder if it is to late to go rubber band instead to hold the wings to the body. Just saying, I will prevail and try the bolt on though.
I still have my Aquila Grande' though, but I have to remove a dent in the boom behind the trailing edge of the wing. When I had down stairs something was laying on it for about 20 or so years.
I don't think the stabilizer will be affected to much, not like a fin for the rudder. At a glance it looks normal, but looking down the body from the front. You can see it still, not much. But it there, I think it will be taken care of when I glue stabilizer on. This week some time.
I really like these instructions sometimes, like the 2 balsa blocks you put in the wing for the bolt on version. They tell you use a T-Square to line the blocks with. If I kept building for 25 years I might have. But I don't, and I can't afford to go out and buy something like that, since I am on a set income.
Sig assumes every modeler have a full workshop maybe. I don't even have a tap and Die kit. I'm going to see if my neighbor has the one. I wonder if it is to late to go rubber band instead to hold the wings to the body. Just saying, I will prevail and try the bolt on though.
#78
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Some guy at the field was going to sell me his old Aquila kit at the field last year but it never materialized but my list of kits I want to build is large already. You can make your own tap with a modified bolt with the same thread as your hold down screw if you get into a bind.
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Ok, on the tap part. To bad you couldn't get that Aquila.
New lesson.
When I build another Riser 100 this winter, and before I glue together the tail end of the body. Insert a CA hinge into it then. Hard as heck to cut through the wood to put it in after body is done and covered. And I didn't use Tite Bond either, I used the white Gorilla glue to build the plane.
2 planes I am getting this winter will be:
1. Riser 100, yea I know. Another one.
2. Durex V Short kit. The Durex V will probably take 4 to 6 Months to build since the Fuse will be scratched built.
http://store.laser-design-services.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=27&products_id=280.
New lesson.
When I build another Riser 100 this winter, and before I glue together the tail end of the body. Insert a CA hinge into it then. Hard as heck to cut through the wood to put it in after body is done and covered. And I didn't use Tite Bond either, I used the white Gorilla glue to build the plane.
2 planes I am getting this winter will be:
1. Riser 100, yea I know. Another one.
2. Durex V Short kit. The Durex V will probably take 4 to 6 Months to build since the Fuse will be scratched built.
http://store.laser-design-services.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=27&products_id=280.
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-04-2016 at 06:36 PM.
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I have been wanting that plane for a while now. I have downloaded the plans and instruction book off of Outerzone. But I found that web site to buy the short kit. But something always pop up that I have spend money on instead of the plane. But, January 2017, I'm ordering it.
#82
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I have been wanting that plane for a while now. I have downloaded the plans and instruction book off of Outerzone. But I found that web site to buy the short kit. But something always pop up that I have spend money on instead of the plane. But, January 2017, I'm ordering it.
#83
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Riser 100 Update:
Well, not much doing. Still working on the spoilers and spoiler bays. Got the spoiler platforms installed and glued into place. I put masking tape around the servo's and CA them into place. Left spoiler has been covered and attached to the spar so I can get the distant for the 1/2 inch sheet around the spoiler bay on the left wing.
Working on Right wing spoilers also. Did the same thing that I have done to the left. Have not covered the right spoiler yet. Will do that later on today.
Still working on sanding the right wing tip, that one is really making my hand hurt.
I know when I build the second Riser 100 this winter, I am going to have a couple of things to do the job with. Like this,http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Ha...&wl13=&veh=sem
I used to have a razor planer, got me where that took off to.
Working on Right wing spoilers also. Did the same thing that I have done to the left. Have not covered the right spoiler yet. Will do that later on today.
Still working on sanding the right wing tip, that one is really making my hand hurt.
I know when I build the second Riser 100 this winter, I am going to have a couple of things to do the job with. Like this,http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Ha...&wl13=&veh=sem
I used to have a razor planer, got me where that took off to.
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-06-2016 at 02:13 AM.
#84
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Well, not much doing. Still working on the spoilers and spoiler bays. Got the spoiler platforms installed and glued into place. I put masking tape around the servo's and CA them into place. Left spoiler has been covered and attached to the spar so I can get the distant for the 1/2 inch sheet around the spoiler bay on the left wing.
Working on Right wing spoilers also. Did the same thing that I have done to the left. Have not covered the right spoiler yet. Will do that later on today.
Still working on sanding the right wing tip, that one is really making my hand hurt.
I know when I build the second Riser 100 this winter, I am going to have a couple of things to do the job with. Like this,http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Ha...&wl13=&veh=sem
I used to have a razor planer, got me where that took off to.
Working on Right wing spoilers also. Did the same thing that I have done to the left. Have not covered the right spoiler yet. Will do that later on today.
Still working on sanding the right wing tip, that one is really making my hand hurt.
I know when I build the second Riser 100 this winter, I am going to have a couple of things to do the job with. Like this,http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Ha...&wl13=&veh=sem
I used to have a razor planer, got me where that took off to.
Now my all time favorite is this little German made job. I purchase my razor blades from a Shave Shop. You will find it here:
http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Met...e-SL031_S.html or http://www.amatimodel.com/en/tools/t...al-block-plane
#85
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Riser 100 Update:
Hello All;
Pardon the messy house. But I have the wing on the body and marking the rear area for drilling the holes later on of the bolt pattern.
When I build my second Riser 100 this winter, I starting with the wings first. There is a slight gap in between the trailing edge where the wings come together, I am not happy about it.
But what do you expect, I haven't built anything since 1988. And I think I'm doing pretty good.
And you look real close in the back on the table you see some metallic blue monokote. I am going to use that on my hatch cover and underneath my spoilers. 1 of the spoilers are covered.
This is the Razor plane I had way back when, found it National Balsa web site.
http://www.nationalbalsa.com/Balsa_Razor_plane_p/balsa%20razor.htm
David
Pardon the messy house. But I have the wing on the body and marking the rear area for drilling the holes later on of the bolt pattern.
When I build my second Riser 100 this winter, I starting with the wings first. There is a slight gap in between the trailing edge where the wings come together, I am not happy about it.
But what do you expect, I haven't built anything since 1988. And I think I'm doing pretty good.
And you look real close in the back on the table you see some metallic blue monokote. I am going to use that on my hatch cover and underneath my spoilers. 1 of the spoilers are covered.
This is the Razor plane I had way back when, found it National Balsa web site.
http://www.nationalbalsa.com/Balsa_Razor_plane_p/balsa%20razor.htm
David
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-09-2016 at 01:57 AM.
#87
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I got to get another one. (Planer) that is. I would've made my life easy doing the tips.
Oh my, there is no yellow in the plane at all.
Colors are Orange, Transparent Burnt Orange, Transparent Red and Metallic Blue.
Oh my, there is no yellow in the plane at all.
Colors are Orange, Transparent Burnt Orange, Transparent Red and Metallic Blue.
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-09-2016 at 04:25 PM.
#88
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I love the little plane Mike looks like it's a good quality tool, I've had a Master Airscrew plane I bought from Tower for a good 15 years I'd say and used it for the first time on my Sceptor project a few weeks ago! I guess I never used it because it seemed so cheap but man does it works great, I feel silly for not trying it sooner!
Aquila1954, For not building for almost 30 years your doing awesome and speaking from a recent plane user the Master Airscrew is a life saver!
Aquila1954, For not building for almost 30 years your doing awesome and speaking from a recent plane user the Master Airscrew is a life saver!
#90
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Yea, I got it from value hobby. Their website picture showed a brighter color orange and I got this. Needless to say, I was disappointed. And when you write a bad review on their website, they don't like it. Because they never posted it. And I wrote it 3 times.
#91
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Well yesterday I cleared the Sceptor (almost done too) off of my building bench and now the Riser is ready to be finished. I love to build but feel I suck at covering and really just don't enjoy it so I avoid it. I have to finish the spoiler linkage on the right wing and do some light finish sanding and cover the wings. The vert stabilizer needs to be mounted and both the rudder and elevator needs the hinge points glued in. After that I will finish hooking up the control surfaces, adjust the spoilers, balance it and then the maiden. I wish I would have cowled the motor it takes away from the looks not to mention probably produces drag. I didn't know about the glider drive SK3 motors HK sells when I started this build last June.
#93
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Very nice, you have beaten me. I have been really lazy lately. Still working on that right wing tip, wood is hard as heck. I was thinking about breaking out the dremal and putting a sanding wheel on it. But decided against it, might screw things up. I still have to drill the holes for the wing bolts. I am so close to finishing it.
Take a picture of the front of the plane so I can see the motor and all.
When I get the other 100 this winter, it is going to be rubber band on. And the rudder and fin is going be built without the counter balance this time around. The reason for another Riser 100 is for me to have building experience for the Durex V. Also, I was thinking to making a twin for the first.
Take a picture of the front of the plane so I can see the motor and all.
When I get the other 100 this winter, it is going to be rubber band on. And the rudder and fin is going be built without the counter balance this time around. The reason for another Riser 100 is for me to have building experience for the Durex V. Also, I was thinking to making a twin for the first.
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Well finally, got the H. stabilizer epoxied on. Took what 3 weeks. lol .
Also, on covering, since I haven't really covered to much lately, I am out of practice. I did manage to recover my GP Spectra last winter. Came out half way decent. But still need a lot of practice, especially around the wing tips.
That elevator was a real pain to me to do on the 100. And to cut out the areas around the back of the fuse too.
One thing about the Glider Drive, it doesn't leave you much room after installing it.
This is the one I planning to install in the Durex V when I build it next year. (Turnigy GliderDrive SK3 Competition Series - 3858 - 4.6 1120kv) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=52334.
Also, on covering, since I haven't really covered to much lately, I am out of practice. I did manage to recover my GP Spectra last winter. Came out half way decent. But still need a lot of practice, especially around the wing tips.
That elevator was a real pain to me to do on the 100. And to cut out the areas around the back of the fuse too.
One thing about the Glider Drive, it doesn't leave you much room after installing it.
This is the one I planning to install in the Durex V when I build it next year. (Turnigy GliderDrive SK3 Competition Series - 3858 - 4.6 1120kv) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=52334.
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-14-2016 at 02:15 AM.
#95
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On your wing tips did you "precut" them before glueing them on? I'll take a photo of the motor and post it next time around. As far as future builds I can't recomend enough on building a Sceptor 100 ($105) from Mountain Models. It builds easier than the Sig Risers although the instructions are few and not step by step so one should be able to build off of plans. The would was of good quality and it was my first time building from a laser cut kit. Man I'm spoiled now.
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In a way yes on the tip blocks. I pinned them to the ends and trace the end rib on them. Then I cut most of the wood away using the x-acto knife. Then I glued them on and sand them. Would of been nice, if my razor plane did not walk off though. Well, next Month I will order another one or two from http://www.nationalbalsa.com/Balsa_R...sa%20razor.htm.
I was looking at the Sceptor at one time. It is a nice looking plane. The price went up though. I just checked. 149.00.
I was looking at the Sceptor at one time. It is a nice looking plane. The price went up though. I just checked. 149.00.
#98
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She's coming along nicely Aquila1954. I worked on mine today out in the shop for a few hours but I was chased out of there,100 degrees out and even hotter in the garage. I took a few photos of the motor install and the more I look at it the more I'm disappointed in not enclosing it but not sure if I can change it now without major re-work. I'm using a HH Power 25 and 14x8 prop setup that is used on the HH Mystic, it was very affordable and the Mystic is roughly the same size/weight as the Riser 100 so I know it will work well.
I finished the Spoiler install which should work well, next time I will build the spoilers like your doing yours.
I finished the Spoiler install which should work well, next time I will build the spoilers like your doing yours.
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Riser 100 Update:
Very nice.
When you put that rudder on to the fin, check to make sure the clearance of the rudder is to that elevator. You know where the notch is. I found in mine, it was not getting enough clearance to move without pulling away from the hinges. I found in my case that elevator at the center where the dowel is was not close enough when I glued the hinges in place. So, I took out my trusty dremal and sanded out more of the notch. (Picture 1). Fits and turns the rudder much better. The rudder hinges are not yet glued.
The pins in my rudder hinges was for, so when I pushed the rudder on. The hinges wouldn't go to far into the fin in picture 2.
Okay, on your plane.
What battery size and ESC are you using.
Is this your first time at Electric or have you done this before. This is my second one with E-Power.
My batteries are Turnigy 2200 30C 3S Lipos's. And my ESC is a Turnigy Plush 40A /with 5A bec. Kind of funny, the "green" where the 2.2 number is a reflection from my cell phone case.
When you put that rudder on to the fin, check to make sure the clearance of the rudder is to that elevator. You know where the notch is. I found in mine, it was not getting enough clearance to move without pulling away from the hinges. I found in my case that elevator at the center where the dowel is was not close enough when I glued the hinges in place. So, I took out my trusty dremal and sanded out more of the notch. (Picture 1). Fits and turns the rudder much better. The rudder hinges are not yet glued.
The pins in my rudder hinges was for, so when I pushed the rudder on. The hinges wouldn't go to far into the fin in picture 2.
Okay, on your plane.
What battery size and ESC are you using.
Is this your first time at Electric or have you done this before. This is my second one with E-Power.
My batteries are Turnigy 2200 30C 3S Lipos's. And my ESC is a Turnigy Plush 40A /with 5A bec. Kind of funny, the "green" where the 2.2 number is a reflection from my cell phone case.
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Riser 100 Update:
Well, I got the rudder permanently attached to the fin now. Still working on the right wing tip. It is almost done. In a couple of days hopefully after drilling holes for bolt on wing. Then I will glue the inner and outer wing panels together.
The rudder control horn is screwed in place and the push rod is attached. Now I have something to play with on the plane.
The rudder control horn is screwed in place and the push rod is attached. Now I have something to play with on the plane.
Last edited by Aquila1954; 08-15-2016 at 03:24 AM.