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Sig Riser 100 electric Build

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Old 09-12-2016, 04:45 AM
  #151  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Aquila1954
Hello;

Well, it didn't turn out so bad after all. Here is how I did it. The wind will push is back while flying and then the magnet will lock it down. I hope. I did turn it upside down and shook the wing to see if it would come loose, it didn't.

A simple but elegant solution! I used magnets to hold the luggage door closed on my Cessna 182 it also works great. REMs really are a great way to hold things even in flight.
Old 09-12-2016, 07:08 AM
  #152  
Aquila1954
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Hey;
As soon as I get off my lazy bottom and apply velcro in 2 places, for battery and rx. Then balance it out, the plane can fly.
But the weather up here is not looking to good. Off and on rain through the week and windy conditions. I really don't want to drive on the grass field after it rains.

I would like it to be under 5 mph winds, but I really don't want to play with the 15 or so mph gusts for a maiden flight. We have a "Old Timers and Glider fun fly coming up this Saturday. But Sunday looks like better weather instead. We will see, been checking weather conditions everyday.
Old 09-12-2016, 10:52 PM
  #153  
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Default E-Riser Update:

Well, I got my velcro in for my battery and rx.
And my spoilers works great.
Now I am balancing it. Touchy plane to balance. But it looks like I might have to put 1/4 oz of lead in it. Beginning of cg is 3-1/2 inches from leading edge, right behind the spar.
I want to get it around 3- 5/8 inch area. that would put it in the middle of the CG. I like a little nose down right now.

But it will be ready for this Saturday 17, "Old Timers/Glider" Fun fly. If the weather behaves itself.

P.S.
Well, I didn't need use 1/4 oz weight after all. Move the cg to 1/16 past the 3-1/2 mark.

Last edited by Aquila1954; 09-12-2016 at 11:24 PM.
Old 09-13-2016, 05:33 PM
  #154  
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Looks great Aquila what did the AUW on your Riser come out at?
Old 09-13-2016, 06:45 PM
  #155  
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I don't have batteries for my little scale, So I really don't know.
Old 09-15-2016, 12:21 AM
  #156  
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Pork Chop:
AUW: battery included.
I found some batteries for my little scale in the kitchen drawer. So I weighed it. Came out to 3 lbs 8 oz.
The Riser 100 weight in the instruction is 45 - 49 oz. But that is for pure, no motor. I think it came out pretty decent myself, for 3 1/2 pounds.
Old 09-17-2016, 10:08 AM
  #157  
Aquila1954
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Default Bad Crash of the Riser

I am sad;

Well, we had a problem Houston.
The first 3 flights of the Riser 100 were great.
The fourth one, well that is another story. I will it will take 2 weeks to fix.
Bad, bad crash.
It was acting funny in the air, so I thought. Well heck, maybe when I put in a fresh battery, it wasn't in the right place. I was right, it was to far back. Coming in for a landing and at the wrong possible time, the plane nosed up.

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Old 09-17-2016, 10:57 AM
  #158  
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So sorry to hear that Aquila, flying electric planes now I've seen that at our field a couple of times. I'm glad to hear you got 3 good first flights on your median and it looks like only the nose broke? how's the motor?
Old 09-17-2016, 11:42 AM
  #159  
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I think the motor is fine, but behind the F-4 bulk head. There is 2 cracks in the fuse also on either side. I think, if it had rubber band on wings instead of bolts that would not of crack. There is no damage to the wings. And the CA hinges just rip out of the rudder, maybe 3 weeks to fix.

I just wasn't paying attention doing what I was suppose to be doing with the position of the battery.
Lesson learned.

When I get the fuse into the house, it still in the trunk of the car. I'll strip the covering and take pictures of the damage for you.
Old 09-17-2016, 11:54 AM
  #160  
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I had a club member shag it for me, I landed quite far from me. This was the second flight.

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Old 09-18-2016, 06:05 PM
  #161  
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Default E-Riser Update:

Well, here are the pictures of the damages:

In the black box of the H. Stab. there is a long crack in it, and a break in the leading edge of it to.

I an going to work on the back have first, then epoxy the 2 halves together afterward.

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Old 09-19-2016, 06:59 AM
  #162  
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I've seen a lot worse this crash is at least survivable for the airplane. Are you going to make any modifications while you repair it?

Mike
Old 09-19-2016, 12:38 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I've seen a lot worse this crash is at least survivable for the airplane. Are you going to make any modifications while you repair it?
Mike
Well the only modification probably be, is to remove the 1/16x1/4 inch flat wood that I put in the top part behind the F-4 bulkhead, I thought I put in 1/4 in. Triangle Stock in the top part. Nope did not, if I would've done that, I don't think it would break. What a dope I am.

I glued the 2 cracks behind the F-4 Bulkhead and put in some Hobby-lite putty to smooth it out over the cracks. I got to get some epoxy brushes and epoxy those cracks from the inside.

Lesson Learned:
Do not knock out the wood in the middle of the bulkheads from F-2 through F-4. Keep them in tack, just make a holes big enough to get the servo, battery and esc wires threw.



And after thinking about you're suggestion about modifications, I have decided to put in 1/4 in. triangle stock for use of a fillet for V. Stab. And epoxy the V. Stab and H. Stab together that way. To shore up that H. stab.
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:53 PM
  #164  
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Hindsight is always 20/20!
Old 09-19-2016, 01:09 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Hindsight is always 20/20!
Old 09-20-2016, 05:34 AM
  #166  
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I'm adding a little more triangle stock behind the half's of the F-3 bulkhead, so that the epoxy will have more wood to hold on to when I put the two half's together later on this week. One of my mini servo's broke both sides of the hold down brackets. Just wondering if I should monkey rig this or buy a new one. If I buy new, I will order 5 of them. These are what I am using for my rudder and elevator.



They seem to work good.
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Old 09-20-2016, 05:52 AM
  #167  
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For that kind of price I think I would just replace it.
Old 09-20-2016, 04:11 PM
  #168  
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Next Question:
After I epoxy the two halves together, should I get some fiberglass cloth and go around the outside of it or just fill the crack with hobby lite. This has not been epoxied yet. It's just pushed together or the picture.

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Old 09-21-2016, 05:31 PM
  #169  
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Yes just get some of the 2 inch and cover the crack with it. If you are careful with the epoxy you can get a pretty smooth finish n
Old 09-21-2016, 05:54 PM
  #170  
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I would go with the wide fiberglass or some carbon fiber matt.
Old 09-22-2016, 06:26 PM
  #171  
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I agree with Gratter and Mike about fiber-glassing over the break, I know some guys go from nose to beyond the trailing edge along the bottom
Old 09-22-2016, 09:40 PM
  #172  
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Come payday, which will be Sept 30. I'll order what I need from hobby king then. LHS around here really sucks.
Old 09-23-2016, 09:33 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Aquila1954
Come payday, which will be Sept 30. I'll order what I need from hobby king then. LHS around here really sucks.
Must be a Hobby Town! ;-)
Old 09-23-2016, 11:49 AM
  #174  
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You are Right, it is a Hobby Town. I sure miss the days when there were at least 3 shops that you can go to and sit around and BS. The Hobby Town I go to the guy is not to friendly. Going to epoxy the fuse tomorrow. Then work on the tail section.
Old 09-23-2016, 12:00 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Aquila1954
You are Right, it is a Hobby Town. I sure miss the days when there were at least 3 shops that you can go to and sit around and BS. The Hobby Town I go to the guy is not to friendly. Going to epoxy the fuse tomorrow. Then work on the tail section.
And he probably hasn't a clue if you ask him something!


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