timmyds

Well finally came into some cash. Need to get my BOT electrified. Need a nice powerfull brushless motor, that I can use later again as I graduate into a hotliner. also need a computer radio radio suggestion. Lookin for decent quality suggestions. Money no object. Was thhew Hacker 40 line, but I get easily confused when it comes to this stuff. [sm=confused.gif]

bckyrdbshr

My Feedback: (35)

Here you go Money Bags.....
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHG6&P=0]Ultimate Radio[/link]

timmyds

O.K. and for Motor??

uabass

And if you order now, you get $25.00 off the Ultimate Radio.

ejett

My Feedback: (4)

Call New Creations RC (936-856-4630)or Shredair (541-954-6842) about motor/ESC/Battery combos. They can tell you what you need.

EJ

dicknadine

since when DO YOU NEED a MOTOR for a GLIDER/SAILPLANE ? dick

forrest adams

why are you adding a motor - there's lot's of free nrg available (sun).
the whole pt is to soar without using a motor - see, with a motor, if you are bragging about your 30 min flight - well... you had a motor. but 30 min with no motor... now that's a 'real man'.
i hope this post is taken as just friendly shots - you get the idea?

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

My B.O.T. has a motor on it to get it in the air. Sometimes I take it off and use my hi-start to get it in the air.
Either way, I still feel like a "real man" regardless of how it got up there. I say if a motor is what makes you happy,
then GO FOR IT! Isn't that what this sport is all about?

Since money IS an object for me, I went with an OS 10 LA and 2 ounce tank. I usually only run about a half ounce
per flight if it's a good (thermal) day. That way the run time is short and I can just work the thermals from there.
If it's not a good thermal day, that full 2 ounces will speck it out.

With or without a motor, as long as you're having fun, you're doing it right!

m-dennis

I motorized a BOT ARF last year. I used an Aveox 27/26/3 with a 6:1 planetary gearbox turning a 16x10 folding prop. I also tried a Hacker LMR with the same gearbox and prop. My altimeter shows climb rates around 2,300' per min with the Aveox and 2,800' with the Hacker. The Hacker was overkill and pulling too many amps for my battery which is an 11.1V Kokum 20C 2100 mAh Li-Po, if I remember right. I usually get 4 or 5 relights with the Aveox setup.

I basically had 2 problems with the conversion. One is the shape of the fuselage. It is oval shaped, (longer top to bottom verses side to side), plus it has a skid molded into the bottom which destroys the nice line you create with a round nose cone. The second is the width of the fuselage where the canopy cover goes is not wide enough to get common battery packs into. The nose of the ARF has an 8 oz steel weight glued into the nose for balance so getting the CG right with the motor in the nose isn't a problem.

The oval shaped problem I just lived with. I matched my spinner to the tallest part of the oval, ( I ground off the skid and reinforced the nose with some glass). I made a firewall out of ply and beveled it so it couldn't pull out through the nose and epoxied it in.

The battery problem was a different animal. I wanted to use Ni-Cads but the batteries were too big to get the voltage and amperage I needed. Any cutting on the lip of the canopy opening seemed to be asking for problems. So I when I found the Li-Po battery which would fit in the opening without modification I just went with it. Kind of expensive, but it works. It also saves quite a bit of weight.

Other modifications I made to the plane were:
Reinforce the spar - The wood grain is horizontal instead of vertical
I added spoilers
Move the rudder servo up under the wing by installing a pivot point where the servo is supposed to be in the tail.
Small nylon screw into the joiner to hold the wing tips instead of tape. (The tape was pulling the covering loose)

I have pictures if you are interested.