Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
03-31-2005, 06:29 PM
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Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
While building up the SGS 1-36 Sprite, I will be constructing my personal 1-26E from our kit components to fly at Wilson Lake and the upcoming Kansas City Aerotow.
I will post the buildup in a thread here on RC Groups. Attached is image one, the components and parts laid out before beginning the build. The color scheme is undecided.
SPECS
Scale: 1:5
Configuration: Shoulder mount wing, conventional horizontal and vertical tails.
Wingspan: 96" (2.4 meter)
Dihedral: 3.5 degrees each wing (7 degrees total).
Wing area: 857 square inches
Wing aspect: 10:1
Channels: 6 (elevator, ailerons (2), rudder, dive brakes, tow release).
Fuselage: epoxyglass with carbon tow reinforcement.
Wings: CNC Wire cut EPS, pulltruded carbon spar, wrapped carbon sleeve, obechi sheeting.
Carry-through: 13/32" brass sleeve (11.5mm) OD, vertical grain balsa fillers, 1/8" (3mm) tabbed laser cut ply box attached to full bulkhead.
Joiner rods: 3/8" (11mm) OD solid carbon rod (2) 8" overall length each side.
Landing gear: Nose skid (aft of CG) 2 1/2" (63.5mm) diameter main on 5/32" steel wire axle with stop collars in 1/8" plywood mounts.
Canopy: vacuum formed clear lexan on 1/8" (3mm) ply frame, side-hinged left side as in full scale.
Instrument panel: 1/32" G-10 glass laser cut with bezels, clear lenses, and full color instrument faces.
The second set of laser cut parts assembled without cement in the foreground illustrates what the finished internal structure is comprised of and how easy it is to install and jig together.
Tom
While building up the SGS 1-36 Sprite, I will be constructing my personal 1-26E from our kit components to fly at Wilson Lake and the upcoming Kansas City Aerotow.
I will post the buildup in a thread here on RC Groups. Attached is image one, the components and parts laid out before beginning the build. The color scheme is undecided.
SPECS
Scale: 1:5
Configuration: Shoulder mount wing, conventional horizontal and vertical tails.
Wingspan: 96" (2.4 meter)
Dihedral: 3.5 degrees each wing (7 degrees total).
Wing area: 857 square inches
Wing aspect: 10:1
Channels: 6 (elevator, ailerons (2), rudder, dive brakes, tow release).
Fuselage: epoxyglass with carbon tow reinforcement.
Wings: CNC Wire cut EPS, pulltruded carbon spar, wrapped carbon sleeve, obechi sheeting.
Carry-through: 13/32" brass sleeve (11.5mm) OD, vertical grain balsa fillers, 1/8" (3mm) tabbed laser cut ply box attached to full bulkhead.
Joiner rods: 3/8" (11mm) OD solid carbon rod (2) 8" overall length each side.
Landing gear: Nose skid (aft of CG) 2 1/2" (63.5mm) diameter main on 5/32" steel wire axle with stop collars in 1/8" plywood mounts.
Canopy: vacuum formed clear lexan on 1/8" (3mm) ply frame, side-hinged left side as in full scale.
Instrument panel: 1/32" G-10 glass laser cut with bezels, clear lenses, and full color instrument faces.
The second set of laser cut parts assembled without cement in the foreground illustrates what the finished internal structure is comprised of and how easy it is to install and jig together.
Tom
04-03-2005, 10:33 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
FUSELAGE ASSSEMBLY
Here is what you will need for the first operation:
3M Scotch-Weld DP 460 epoxy adhesive,
Mixing cups,
Sticks for mixing and applying adhesive,
Masking tape,
Rotary tool with a cutoff wheel for cutting and trimming fiberglass,
Electric drill,
5/16" drill bit for 8mm nose release
13/32" drill bit for wing joiner openings in fuselage
Hobby saw,
Hobby knife,
Sanding block with medium paper for trimming 1/8" ply as needed,
Two small woodworking "C" or quick clamps,
Small tubing cutter,
Pencil or fine felt-tip pen,
Small tape measure or ruler,
Plan drawings for the model,
Instruction book,
Glass fuse,
Laser cut parts kit,
Pushrods,
Brass joiner sleeve,
Supplied template for landing gear wheel well opening
Here is what you will need for the first operation:
3M Scotch-Weld DP 460 epoxy adhesive,
Mixing cups,
Sticks for mixing and applying adhesive,
Masking tape,
Rotary tool with a cutoff wheel for cutting and trimming fiberglass,
Electric drill,
5/16" drill bit for 8mm nose release
13/32" drill bit for wing joiner openings in fuselage
Hobby saw,
Hobby knife,
Sanding block with medium paper for trimming 1/8" ply as needed,
Two small woodworking "C" or quick clamps,
Small tubing cutter,
Pencil or fine felt-tip pen,
Small tape measure or ruler,
Plan drawings for the model,
Instruction book,
Glass fuse,
Laser cut parts kit,
Pushrods,
Brass joiner sleeve,
Supplied template for landing gear wheel well opening
04-03-2005, 10:36 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 1
MARKING/CUTTING THE WHEEL OPENING
Test fit all laser cut plywood 1/8" parts inside the fuselage and align as shown on the plan drawings until you are familiar with the assembly and fit. Sand or plane any edges that cause the bulkheads to fit too tightly or require forcing them into position. They should be able to be easily fit into position. (You will not be able to seat the two wheel well mount longerons completely until you have finished the steps below but you will be able to see how they ultimately fit with the other parts and the fuselage.)
Mark the landing gear wheel well opening on the bottom of the fuselage:
With a tape measure make a small mark on the fuselage lower center line 32 3/8" from the end of the tail cone. Next, measure and mark a center line on the marking template supplied.
Place the back end of the template on the 32 3/8" line and center it on the fuselage center line. Trace it out with a pencil or felt-tip marker and cut out the marked opening with the dremel and cut-off wheel leaving the pencil line to allow for trimming if required.
Test fit the wheel mount longerons in the outer slots you've just cut and trim the opening if needed with a small emory board or file so the parts fit flush and square. Small imperfections can be cleaned up more easily with file and or filler after they are cemented in place.
NOTE: You can use the wheel well marking template as a spacer or square to make sure the longerons fit square and parallel to each other and the fuselage prior to proceeding to the next step when they are cemented into position. It is important to check for squareness to see that the axle center line is 90 degrees to the fuselage center line so the wheel tracks straight.
I should note that the markings are on the outside of the fusleage but picture better through the epoxyglass. Use fairly high speed for dremel cutting epoxy glass. It tends to want to heat up and melt so more light passes is better than cutting all the way through at once.
Total time for step 1 about 30 minutes.
MARKING/CUTTING THE WHEEL OPENING
Test fit all laser cut plywood 1/8" parts inside the fuselage and align as shown on the plan drawings until you are familiar with the assembly and fit. Sand or plane any edges that cause the bulkheads to fit too tightly or require forcing them into position. They should be able to be easily fit into position. (You will not be able to seat the two wheel well mount longerons completely until you have finished the steps below but you will be able to see how they ultimately fit with the other parts and the fuselage.)
Mark the landing gear wheel well opening on the bottom of the fuselage:
With a tape measure make a small mark on the fuselage lower center line 32 3/8" from the end of the tail cone. Next, measure and mark a center line on the marking template supplied.
Place the back end of the template on the 32 3/8" line and center it on the fuselage center line. Trace it out with a pencil or felt-tip marker and cut out the marked opening with the dremel and cut-off wheel leaving the pencil line to allow for trimming if required.
Test fit the wheel mount longerons in the outer slots you've just cut and trim the opening if needed with a small emory board or file so the parts fit flush and square. Small imperfections can be cleaned up more easily with file and or filler after they are cemented in place.
NOTE: You can use the wheel well marking template as a spacer or square to make sure the longerons fit square and parallel to each other and the fuselage prior to proceeding to the next step when they are cemented into position. It is important to check for squareness to see that the axle center line is 90 degrees to the fuselage center line so the wheel tracks straight.
I should note that the markings are on the outside of the fusleage but picture better through the epoxyglass. Use fairly high speed for dremel cutting epoxy glass. It tends to want to heat up and melt so more light passes is better than cutting all the way through at once.
Total time for step 1 about 30 minutes.
04-03-2005, 10:39 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 2 (cont.)
PREPARING THE WING CARRY THROUGH
The next step in constructing the fuselage is to prepare all of the parts for assembly of the carry through spar. The carry through consists of two 13/32" O.D. brass tubes which serve as the receiver sleeves for the 3/8" O.D. solid carbon wing rods. The sleeves are bedded in a 1/8" laser cut tabbed and jigged box attached to the main bulkhead, and sandwiched between vertical end grain balsa fillers.
The theory behind the tabs and the extension of the bulkhead and box front beyond the tab slots of the top and bottom caps is to provide more adhesive surface area to the box and prevent blowout of the top and bottom under severe loads.
First trim of the long grain ends off of both sides of the block with your hobby saw. These should remove easily since you are cutting with the grain. Be careful to keep the saw square to the laser kerfs.
PREPARING THE WING CARRY THROUGH
The next step in constructing the fuselage is to prepare all of the parts for assembly of the carry through spar. The carry through consists of two 13/32" O.D. brass tubes which serve as the receiver sleeves for the 3/8" O.D. solid carbon wing rods. The sleeves are bedded in a 1/8" laser cut tabbed and jigged box attached to the main bulkhead, and sandwiched between vertical end grain balsa fillers.
The theory behind the tabs and the extension of the bulkhead and box front beyond the tab slots of the top and bottom caps is to provide more adhesive surface area to the box and prevent blowout of the top and bottom under severe loads.
First trim of the long grain ends off of both sides of the block with your hobby saw. These should remove easily since you are cutting with the grain. Be careful to keep the saw square to the laser kerfs.
04-03-2005, 10:40 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 2 (cont.)
Next split the four peices carefully one at a time from the block with the saw keeping the saw square to the laser kerfs to cut away the remaining gates in the cuts.
Next split the four peices carefully one at a time from the block with the saw keeping the saw square to the laser kerfs to cut away the remaining gates in the cuts.
04-03-2005, 10:43 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 2 (cont.)
MARKING THE SLEEVES
Next, lay the main fuselage (wing joiner) bulkhead flat on the table, insert the top and bottom caps into position, and lay the four web fillers in place between the top and bottom.
Insert the length of 13/32" brass sleeve slightly past center and mark the end where it protrudes past the edge of the bulkhead. Mark the sleeves with pen or pencil leaving enough extra material (1/8" or so total) so that the inner ends of each sleeve can be sanded to a 3.5 degree angle and the opposite end will later protrude out of the glass fuselage to be sanded flush later.
Cut the two peices of brass.
MARKING THE SLEEVES
Next, lay the main fuselage (wing joiner) bulkhead flat on the table, insert the top and bottom caps into position, and lay the four web fillers in place between the top and bottom.
Insert the length of 13/32" brass sleeve slightly past center and mark the end where it protrudes past the edge of the bulkhead. Mark the sleeves with pen or pencil leaving enough extra material (1/8" or so total) so that the inner ends of each sleeve can be sanded to a 3.5 degree angle and the opposite end will later protrude out of the glass fuselage to be sanded flush later.
Cut the two peices of brass.
04-03-2005, 10:46 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 2 (cont.)
FITTING THE SLEEVES
Next, with the wing carry through assembled as before when marking the sleeves without the front plate in position, trace the location of the edges of the webs and sleeve junction with a pencil then reverse the box and assemble it again on the front plate and trace the same marks on the inside of the front plate.
Using the dremel and a 3/8" burr, make a shallow hollow in the center of each part to allow the 13/32" sleeves to seat and the box to fully jig together. Test fit until satisfactory.
FITTING THE SLEEVES
Next, with the wing carry through assembled as before when marking the sleeves without the front plate in position, trace the location of the edges of the webs and sleeve junction with a pencil then reverse the box and assemble it again on the front plate and trace the same marks on the inside of the front plate.
Using the dremel and a 3/8" burr, make a shallow hollow in the center of each part to allow the 13/32" sleeves to seat and the box to fully jig together. Test fit until satisfactory.
04-03-2005, 10:48 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
1-26 Fuselage Step 2 (completion)
FITTING THE SLEEVES
I have bevel cut the inner ends of the brass sleeves to keep the inside of the tube from fouling with adhesive, and dremeling out a slight channel in the ply. Just a couple of light passes did the trick and allowed everything to seat tightly in assembly. The 3/8" I.D. sleeves have 1/64" wall thickness beyond the thickness of the vertical grain balsa, making this necessary.
FITTING THE SLEEVES
I have bevel cut the inner ends of the brass sleeves to keep the inside of the tube from fouling with adhesive, and dremeling out a slight channel in the ply. Just a couple of light passes did the trick and allowed everything to seat tightly in assembly. The 3/8" I.D. sleeves have 1/64" wall thickness beyond the thickness of the vertical grain balsa, making this necessary.
04-03-2005, 10:51 AM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
COMPLETED JOINER BOX
Here is a closer look at the completed joiner box ready for assembly to the bulkhead in the fuselage. I am ready now to drill the joiner rod exit holes in the fuse and proceed with assembly of all components to the interior of the fuse.
Just five minutes more to belt sand the bevel and burr the bulkhead and box front.
Here is a closer look at the completed joiner box ready for assembly to the bulkhead in the fuselage. I am ready now to drill the joiner rod exit holes in the fuse and proceed with assembly of all components to the interior of the fuse.
Just five minutes more to belt sand the bevel and burr the bulkhead and box front.
10-05-2005, 04:01 PM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
Sorry I already asked this question in another thread and got the answers I needed.....ironically you replied.
Jason
(I had asked where I could get a 1-26 kit)
Jason
(I had asked where I could get a 1-26 kit)
10-05-2005, 05:41 PM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
So have the Schweizer assembly instructions stopped or what since RCtrainee got what he wanted? I was enjoying reading about the the process of plywood/ fiberglass integration. Excellent photos too!
10-06-2005, 09:27 PM
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RE: Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up
This is our kit part number sgs126e1:5arf; Description Schweizer Glider Sailplane, Single Seat, 26th production model, E variant, one fifth scale, amost ready to cover.
They are in limited supply but we hope to find a remedy for that soon. The links on our web pages for the D and E model 1-26 will take you to a complete price list for the components or kit. Our actual selling price for the kit as shown at the top of the thread is $349.00. Wings come unsheeted though. I have two in stock at the moment.
tm
They are in limited supply but we hope to find a remedy for that soon. The links on our web pages for the D and E model 1-26 will take you to a complete price list for the components or kit. Our actual selling price for the kit as shown at the top of the thread is $349.00. Wings come unsheeted though. I have two in stock at the moment.
tm
