marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

The ribs in this wing were designed for a VERY old glider - prior to RC days. They were not designed to be taken on and off. However, at this point in time, these plans have been completely reworked.

My attachment indicates that the spars and the shear-web work out OK except that balsa will NEVER hold up. Somewhere along the way I have to install some brass receiver rods and some piano wire coming in from the other side.

Also, the aft section will have to be smaller than the front, I think. OPINIONS PLEASE!

The wing has about an 11" chord at the root. The overall width of the wingspan is 96". Each extention will be 36" in length - starting at ROOT width and tapered down to almost 2"

The GULLWING configuration has a "V" section that will fit permantently into the fuselage.

Once the extentions are installed, they will be coming off the angle at 70Ëš to completion.

My question is: Where should the placement of these rods be and what diameter should be used? Placements #1, #2, & #3.


marwen

rogerflies

My Feedback: (3)

I'm concerned about the apparent complete lack of dihedral in the outer panels. If you're setting it up without ailerons, I don't think it's going to turn very well in response to rudder inputs. A gull wing configuration like that shown is a very inefficient form of polyhedral. It'll take a lot of rudder input (drag) to get much roll from the inner panels.

Even with ailerons, I'd put in some dihedral. It'll look better, be easier to land, and fitting the joiner rods will be easier.

The rod size depends on the weight and how it's going to be flown. It's probably going to weigh between three and four pounds, and it looks like a non-aerobatic ship. For comparison, IIRC, the Sagitta 900 had a single 5/16" rod at the spar with a 3/32" alignment pin at the TE, and the Oly II had a single 1/4" rod at the spar with a 3/32" alignment pin at the TE. Since your joints are outboard of center, the loads will be less. I would think 3/16" MW at the spar with 3/32" alignment pins at the LE and TE would do nicely.

Roger

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Roger:

There is going to be both ailerons and a set of spoilers. The rudder was built no less than three times. It finally evolved to being almost 2x what the original plan called for. I opened up the throw so that I can get a full 40Ëš rudder in both directions. Also, we incorporated a belcrank internally so that the horz stab became a full flying stab.

The wing ribs, as you can see, are undercamberered, so it will be a really slow floater.

I have to chuckle at your overall comments a little, the original plans any had a single TRIM TAB on a skinny rudder and it was totally free flight. (OUCH!)

I think a lot of the time, there is far too much emphasis on making your plane a really high performing plane.

Being retired has its advantages. This is a hobby. It takes up about 10 months out of my year. It is also a fantastic therapy for my arthretic hands. Keeping them busy helps my overall agility and dexterity.

That being said, certainly, we all want to see positive results. The "V" is pretty much a fixed issue. The extentions can be made over and over and over again, if necessary.

It's only a wing. If I don't like its permance then I have the ability to make changes along the way as time goes on.

One really nice advantage that I have is that I also print my own plans - full size.

When I started this wing - last week, I simply took a top view of the plans -I knew that the overall was supposed to be 96". The root was less than 11", so I lined up three copies, using up the full 36" capacity of the printer.

While going back to topic of concern, Roger, 1) how much dihedral would you considar?
2) what material would you use for the outer guiding rod and , oh yea, how long? I guess at about two rib spaces or approx. 6" - 7"

I have the choices her in town to get either aluminum or brass for my sleeves and piuano wire ir just that. Piano wire!

It's getting too late in the season and the winters up here can be really brutal on a hi-start rubber, so I'll probably use a tow plane to get her up or else wait till spring time.

I think I'll build a really small version of this throughout the winter as well.

Besides that, I have about two to three other smaller powered RC's that I want to finish up. One of them is a small 36" delta wing - pusher prop. It's all but finished other than installing the motor and the servos. I think it was called the FORCE ONE.

I have a P51D SLOPE SOARER that just needs to be monokoted, and a little 2 meter sailplane called SUPER SINBAD. It's all finished other than the left half of the wing. Heck, it's allready completely Monokoted, too.

So, as you see, HOBBY


I thought I'd show you a copy of the original set of plans - by now, completely bashed

marwen

rogerflies

My Feedback: (3)

I think between 1 and 2 degrees would look about right. 1" under the end of the outer panel would be a place to start. I've always found that flat wings look droopy.

You probably won't need nearly as much rudder if you're going to use ailerons. It won't take much to give you a coordinated turn since you have the ailerons to establish the bank.

I'd make the joiner rods about 5" long, or 2 1/2" on each side of the joint. I take it you're going to install 1/16" ply shear webs to attach the brass tube to. Have them extend one rib bay each way.

The alignment pins can be much shorter, say 1 1/2" long, or 3/4" on either side of the joint. You might not have enough vertical room at the TE for even that much, though. I've used short pieces of NyRod for alignment pins, and it worked OK. There's not much load there.

It's an interesting plan. Looks like a real classic. Good luck with it.
Roger

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

AWESOME! The bays are about 3" + aart. The plans called for straight balsa but - no! I just might even use some poplar I have nicely cut up. Yep! 1/16" shear web - The plans showed horiz grain but then again - no! vertical! and maybe somelite balsa for the brass tubes but cover them with some 1/32" ply.

That nyrod sounds like a good idea. It'll have a bit of flex in there, too.

Gotta run, time to go out and find some brass.

marwen