Helijack

I got this old Maestro kit and it has "Flaperons" which are essentially big inboard ailerons.

Well I am am power/scale fixed wing pilot, heli pilot, etc, but I really don't know much about what I intend on doing here. I want to electrify this, not an issue really, but readers should be aware.

I notice on the plans the flaperons are hinged on the bottom, with the relief for motion on the top side, instead of the bottom. Why?

When you deploy flaps and ailerons on a glider (with spoilers too), I think that is crow, and that means the ailerons go up and the flaps go down? I have a radio capable (JR 9303 heli version, but it has the programming).

All this boils down to I want to modify this kit to have flaps and ailerons along with the other control surfaces. I want minor aerobatic performance, thermaling ability, and possible high wind flight similar to slope soaring, but in just essentially a natural wind tunnel. My landing area is limited, launch is out of the question with a high start, not enough room. I think if I shorten the flaps, using part for the ailerons and the lengthen the ailerons more outboard leaving the last 6-8" or so static with a spot of washout. The wing is essentially flat with 4 degrees of dihedral.

Am I nuts?

Thanks
Jack

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

This is the wrong airplane to do this to! I'm not a everything old is great nut, but you're going to pissoff anyone fifty or older by doing this. Buy a new arf sailplane and modify it, but don't mess this kit up, sell it as is, the money will get you a nice arf to play with that will probably fly better anyway, plus if the quality of the wood cutting is like mine was unless you are really good the kit will be a bear to build.

Please don't butcher this kit up, they are rare!

Jimmbbo

While you certainly can do whatever you want to your kit, at the risk of advanced toe-stepping, I gotta agree with Soarrich... Kinda like putting an Avalanche cargo bed on a '57 Chevy Nomad... Doable, but why trash a relatively rare kit..? [sm=confused.gif]

In addition, newer kits/ARFs are likely to be easier to mod, and may already come with some of the goodies you are trying to add...

Helijack

Good points. Being broke makes one think wierd things. Thanks for the input. The only arfs I want are not available for 2 months, unless someone knows where to get a Reichard Motorsport Rapid or Mistral. The USA retailers that I have found that carry them are out of stock. Might just have to go for an XS 3200.

Could we still cover the flaps, gap, and ailerons questions so I can learn? BTW, I am over 50
Jack

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Two reasons:

If you hinge the flap on the bottom as opposed to the top you gain the thickness of the wing in projected area, i.e. a 2 inch flap will stick down 2 inchs if hinged at the bottom, maybe 1 1/2 inch if hinged at the top.

IMHO all surfaces should be hinged on the bottom, the flow is attached on the bottom very smooth, on the top it's turbulant and won't get mesed up by the gap much, it's still good to seal the gaps though.

Yes, it used for spot landings mainly, but it's good for letting down from way up too.

You can cut the flapperons in half and have half flap half aileron, or with the computer radio fly it as flapperons normally and in landing mode aileron flap. I think what Bob was doing with the very flat wing was making you use top aileron, which in effect is adding a little flap to the wing that is moving slower. On my Windsong I did a lot of mods, one of which was more dihedral.

Helijack

Thanks. Interesting, everything I can think of is hinged top wing surface.

Well, I am going to put the Maestro on Ebay next week after I get back from a funfly. Someone who appreciates it will like it.

Thanks again
Jack

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

It looks better.

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...SuperGeeII.htm