Building tips - World Models Aure ARF
07-06-2006, 07:48 AM
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Building tips - World Models Aure ARF
Hi. I've just finished building a World Models Aure slope soarer and would like to share some building tips with others who are considering buying and/or building this ARF kit. I've had some building experience but wouldn't consider myself a fantastic builder by any means so perhaps you could offer advice if you know of better ways of doing things than what I've described.
The first point to mention is that the instruction manual for the aure relies entirely on photos. A photo says a thousand words but another thousand words accompanying each photo would have been useful. The manual for the Great Planes Spirit Elite ARF kit (which I downloaded from their web site) is so much better than that of the Aure and I relied on it for some useful building tips.
Step 1: Aileron.
This step was very straightforward but it's worthwhile reading the corresponding section of the Elite manual.
Step 2: Aileron Servo.
The Spirit Elite manual was particularly handy when installing the aileron servos. The Aure manual indicates that two balsa blocks should be epoxied in the aileron servo tray and then the servo epoxied onto the balsa blocks. The block nearest the LE would have been supported by two pieces of wood in the wing. However, the block nearest the TE would only have been supported by one. Also, I was using HS-81's to control the ailerons and I found the control arms were not long enough to penetrate the servo cover. I therefore decided to glue hardwood blocks to the servo covers (as described in the Elite's manual) and then screw the servos onto these. This provided much greater penetration of the control arm and allows for much easier installation and removal of the servo. I didn't use the plastic clevises, etc. supplied with the kit. Instead I used metal clevis on a threaded rod and a z bend at the control horn.
Running the aileron servo leads and their extensions through the wing was aided by fishing line preinstalled in both wing halves. It was still a difficult task because the servo connectors kept getting caught on each of the wing supports. After several minutes of frustrating attempts to get the connector passed the second wing support I found that taping the servo connector so that it looked like an arrow head such that the fishing line came directly out of the arrow's "point" made this job much less difficult.
Step 3: Rudder
I was looking forward to knocking this step over in 5-10 minutes after the time it took me to complete the previous step. I then discovered that there were no hinge slots on the rudder post. However, after closer investigation I discovered there were very narrow slots just visible under the covering. I stuck an exacto knife into these and widened them so they would accept the hinge. These were then glued with CA as instructed.
Step 4: Rudder pushrod
Another problem! The 20mm screws for the rudder control horn were too short. The rudder with both plastic pieces of the control horn were just a little wider than 20mm. I could have placed the control horn further back on the rudder but I wanted it so the holes of the control horn were as close to the hinge line as possible. I tried to find longer screws in various hardware and hobby stores but couldn't find any in such a small diameter. The guy in my local hobby store suggested I dig out a little of the rudder post on one side (i.e., where the back plate of the control horn was to be placed). Unfortunately the rudder post is hollow so I decided against doing this. Instead, I drilled a slight countersink in the control horn so the screws grabbed the backing plate as much as possible. I then CA'd the control horn into place. I'll have to keep a close eye on it.
Step 5/6: Stabiliser/Elevator
this step was fairly basic but there seems to be slightly larger than necessary gaps between the stabiliser and elevator halves. This creates considerable room for (undesirable?) sideways movement of the elevator halves. i could shorten the stabiliser joiners but I'm not sure if I should do this. I could also place some washers or something in there to reduce the play. This play causes a potential problem with the alignment of the elevator relative to the wing in that the elevator is higher on one side than it is the other. Any advice???
Steps 7 & 8: servos
Straightforward. the preinstalled servo tray fits a standard sized servo. i glued in another support to fit HS-81's. I wonder if standard servos would have been better here???
Step 9: Main wing
This step involves drilling holes in a plastic plate which is fits over the wing halves and helps keep them in place on the fuselage. I laid the plate on the wing saddle so that it rested against the wing saddle where the TE of the wing sits. I then marked the wing saddle on each side at the point where the other end of the plastic plate extends. I then took measurements from the outside corners of these lines to the holes (into which the wing bolts are screwed) near the rear of the wing saddle. I measured the same distances from the edge of the plastic plate to locate the required positions of the holes. I drilled smaller holes first to ensure their positioning was correct then enlarged them to accommodate the wing bolts. I then placed the wing on the saddle and the plastic plate in its position on the wing and pushed a nail through the wing and into the holes. Voila!
Step 10: Canopy
Straightforward.
Step 11: Wing setting
The alignment of the wings relative to the tail fin was correct but, as mentioned previously, the alignment of the elevator halves relative to the central position at the rear of the canopy was slightly out. I don't know how to rectify this or if it is significant (i.e., less than 10mm). Also as previously mentioned, the elevator was slightly higher on one side (relative to the wings). Any advice???
I haven't installed my battery or receiver as yet but I intend using soft foam to protect the battery, a block of soft foam to hold the receiver and some harder foam to hold ballast if required.
Xactibu
The first point to mention is that the instruction manual for the aure relies entirely on photos. A photo says a thousand words but another thousand words accompanying each photo would have been useful. The manual for the Great Planes Spirit Elite ARF kit (which I downloaded from their web site) is so much better than that of the Aure and I relied on it for some useful building tips.
Step 1: Aileron.
This step was very straightforward but it's worthwhile reading the corresponding section of the Elite manual.
Step 2: Aileron Servo.
The Spirit Elite manual was particularly handy when installing the aileron servos. The Aure manual indicates that two balsa blocks should be epoxied in the aileron servo tray and then the servo epoxied onto the balsa blocks. The block nearest the LE would have been supported by two pieces of wood in the wing. However, the block nearest the TE would only have been supported by one. Also, I was using HS-81's to control the ailerons and I found the control arms were not long enough to penetrate the servo cover. I therefore decided to glue hardwood blocks to the servo covers (as described in the Elite's manual) and then screw the servos onto these. This provided much greater penetration of the control arm and allows for much easier installation and removal of the servo. I didn't use the plastic clevises, etc. supplied with the kit. Instead I used metal clevis on a threaded rod and a z bend at the control horn.
Running the aileron servo leads and their extensions through the wing was aided by fishing line preinstalled in both wing halves. It was still a difficult task because the servo connectors kept getting caught on each of the wing supports. After several minutes of frustrating attempts to get the connector passed the second wing support I found that taping the servo connector so that it looked like an arrow head such that the fishing line came directly out of the arrow's "point" made this job much less difficult.
Step 3: Rudder
I was looking forward to knocking this step over in 5-10 minutes after the time it took me to complete the previous step. I then discovered that there were no hinge slots on the rudder post. However, after closer investigation I discovered there were very narrow slots just visible under the covering. I stuck an exacto knife into these and widened them so they would accept the hinge. These were then glued with CA as instructed.
Step 4: Rudder pushrod
Another problem! The 20mm screws for the rudder control horn were too short. The rudder with both plastic pieces of the control horn were just a little wider than 20mm. I could have placed the control horn further back on the rudder but I wanted it so the holes of the control horn were as close to the hinge line as possible. I tried to find longer screws in various hardware and hobby stores but couldn't find any in such a small diameter. The guy in my local hobby store suggested I dig out a little of the rudder post on one side (i.e., where the back plate of the control horn was to be placed). Unfortunately the rudder post is hollow so I decided against doing this. Instead, I drilled a slight countersink in the control horn so the screws grabbed the backing plate as much as possible. I then CA'd the control horn into place. I'll have to keep a close eye on it.
Step 5/6: Stabiliser/Elevator
this step was fairly basic but there seems to be slightly larger than necessary gaps between the stabiliser and elevator halves. This creates considerable room for (undesirable?) sideways movement of the elevator halves. i could shorten the stabiliser joiners but I'm not sure if I should do this. I could also place some washers or something in there to reduce the play. This play causes a potential problem with the alignment of the elevator relative to the wing in that the elevator is higher on one side than it is the other. Any advice???
Steps 7 & 8: servos
Straightforward. the preinstalled servo tray fits a standard sized servo. i glued in another support to fit HS-81's. I wonder if standard servos would have been better here???
Step 9: Main wing
This step involves drilling holes in a plastic plate which is fits over the wing halves and helps keep them in place on the fuselage. I laid the plate on the wing saddle so that it rested against the wing saddle where the TE of the wing sits. I then marked the wing saddle on each side at the point where the other end of the plastic plate extends. I then took measurements from the outside corners of these lines to the holes (into which the wing bolts are screwed) near the rear of the wing saddle. I measured the same distances from the edge of the plastic plate to locate the required positions of the holes. I drilled smaller holes first to ensure their positioning was correct then enlarged them to accommodate the wing bolts. I then placed the wing on the saddle and the plastic plate in its position on the wing and pushed a nail through the wing and into the holes. Voila!
Step 10: Canopy
Straightforward.
Step 11: Wing setting
The alignment of the wings relative to the tail fin was correct but, as mentioned previously, the alignment of the elevator halves relative to the central position at the rear of the canopy was slightly out. I don't know how to rectify this or if it is significant (i.e., less than 10mm). Also as previously mentioned, the elevator was slightly higher on one side (relative to the wings). Any advice???
I haven't installed my battery or receiver as yet but I intend using soft foam to protect the battery, a block of soft foam to hold the receiver and some harder foam to hold ballast if required.
Xactibu
