big al

Hi All,
Can anyone give me a recommendation as to what type of hinge to use on this model? I am new to gliders and was planning on using CA type hinges. I am also lloking for a supplier for CA hinges. I appreciate all input. Thank you - Al

Red B.

Presuming that your Gentle Lady is covered using iron-on covering the simplest (and for gliders probably best) method is to use the covering itself for hinges. Check out this link:

[link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/film_hinges/index.htm]Airfield Models[/link]

/Red B.

BMatthews

I agree. If you're covering with any of the iron on plastics that have the glue as part of the back surface then just use hinges made from the covering material. A hint though... use a longer than normal sanding block to true up the hinge lines on the surfaces. The hinge line needs to be as truly straight as possible to avoid needless binding or "oil canning".

Using the covering material also has the advantage of sealing the hinge line. Avoiding air leakage lowers drag and on a glider that's a good thing.

If you're not using an iron on covering then you can shoot for the CA hinges. They work well. Another option for a low speed application like this is to use the material from computer floppy discs. Just pry open a disc case and take out the mylar "donut". Leave the magnetic layer on to act as a rough surface to provide the CA with something to bite to. Cut into strips about 5/8 to 3/4 wide and use one hinge every 3 inches or less. You'll need to sand a bevel angle like a >< shape into the stabilizer and elevator when doing it this way. DO NOT use rounded edges for this like )( as they will bind up. And of course the angles do not need to be as sharp as the >< suggests. Just sand then to about a 10 degree angle each side for the elevaotors and about 25 each side for the rudder. That'll give you 20 to 25 degrees on the elevator (and that's pleanty) and a good 50 side to side on the rudder with the inevitable hinge line gaps. You need to leave them about 1/64 open to provide at least a bit of material to flex.


From there you can seal the line from air leaking by flexing the surface fully one way and push a ^ of transparent mending adhesive tape into the gap right down to the hinges.

papermache

My Feedback: (35)

My GL has had monokote hinges for 9 years. Never a hing problem. I've used them on several other gliders I have and a few power planes. Again, never a hinge related problem. Airfield Models rocks!

papermache

da Rock

The Airfield Models how-to article is good. It does, however, only show one type of iron on hinge. There are a couple of ways to make them.

The experience I've had with them is that the S type is a bit trickier to make, but better in use. And how the model flies is way more important than how it is to build. And heck, S type aren't hard to do anyway.

papermache

My Feedback: (35)

The instructions in the GL show how to hinge the elevator with a couple pieces of Monokote. I used that method on mine and the "S" hinges on the rudder. Never a problem with either one.

papermache

big al

Thanks Guys for all the great information. I think I will go with the monocote method and look into making the "S" hinge also. As always , you all are so helpful and appreciated. Big Al

jrcaster

You can also use 1 inch packing tape in the same manner as the Monokote hinge. Hobby Lobby sells this as hinge tape. The advantage to this is no sealing iron is required. If your hinges fail at the flying field, no problem. just keep a roll in your flight box or kit.

pilotpete2

Another technique for using the iron on covering is to bevel the stab and the leading edge of the control surface, the bevel is not from the center line, but goes fully across the face of the stab and control surface, this results in the hinge being on one side and give unrestricted movement. You then cover the side of the control surfaces that that the bevel goes towards, then you align the parts with the points of the bevel lined up, then iron on a solid piece over the stab/rudder or stab/ele, you get a solid hinge and no seams, works the same as a tape hinge but much neater.
My description of the process probably sounds more complicated than the actual procedure. I learned this technique from my Czech built ARF sailplane, and put it to practice when I had to "scratch" some new tailfeathers for my Slow-Stick.
Pete

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

Let me throw in my two cents here.. Do the beveled surface like pilot pete suggests, but use Hockeytape or 3M Bookbinding tape. I picked up a roll of Hockey tape in Canada recently and this stuff is awesome for hinges; strong, but with a hint of stretch. It wont get a tear that "runs".

I just rebuilt my 10 year old Gentle Lady that a kid had landed his electric on top of, destroying the rudder. A decade of moves (5 to be exact) didnt help it either. I built a new fin and rudder, rigged up a more positive pushrod for the rudder, hinged it with hockey tape. I've flown it three times in the last two weeks and I love puttering around in light lift with it.