lownslo

Hello Guys,
I am amost ready to re-cover the repaired wing of my XL Big Bird. (see link to the repair)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5099792/tm.htm
It will be hinged with either hinge tape OR the covering itself. I have never done either hingeing process. The tape is a no-brainer, (I think) ... but using the covering might have "secrets" involved. NES has Bonk Tape..... but $30.00 for a roll ??!!! I think not. NOTE: The flap roots are not beveled in any way and are about 3/8" wide. These flaps, hinged at the bottom surface, are only meant to move down, and not reflex, like some are designed. The repaired wing is shown below only needing the final sanding of filler before covering. Thanks in advance..... lownslo.
Bob in Indy

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

I use 3M # 190 tape myself...cheap at $1.20 a roll at my local Tap Plastics, .75" x 125", plus they have all the primary colors and clear. I've managed to find it in Ace Hardware stores pretty much everywhere. You can paint it with Krylon and the paint actually sticks! I have a plane I painted three years ao and the paint is still on the hinges.

When I was in Canada this year (Canadian Rockies, go if you can...) I picked up a roll of hockey tape and I'm probably going to use it in the future. It has great stickiness, but you can peel it off if you mess up the hinging, and it has a nice semi-rubberieness (if thats a word) that looks like it would be great for the long term. If you have a local hockey rink I bet you can find it. I think I paid $3.00 Canadian for it, so it was cheap. I should have bought more rolls.

Fxrs_tim

Bob,

A cheap and easy method that works well for non-beveled surfaces is the laced hinge method. With a little patience you can get gap-free installation. To do it, first cut a bunch of strips of covering, each about 1" wide and 1-2" long. Take 2 of these strips and using a monocote iron on low temp, iron the ends of the strips to each other, glue side to glue side (overlap aobut 1/4"). Thus you'll have a strip ~3" long x 1" wide.

After you make up a *bunch* of these, you're ready to hinge. Start by ironing one end of a strip to the top TE of the wing, with the remainder of the strip extending aft. When tacking the strip down align it so that when it's folded down the center of the overlap is centered on the vertical portion of the sub-TE. Now place the flap *tightly* against the TE, fold the hinge strip aft onto the flap and iron down. A cross section of the strip will look like the letter "Z". For the next strip, reverse it's orientation, i.e. the top goes on the flap, botton on the wing. Continue down the flap until you get to the end. The big thing is to pull the strips tight so that you don't have any gap. Here's a link to some pics: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7&page=8&pp=15 It's on pg 8 of the build thread.

If you have any questions, let me know!

Tim

lownslo

Thanks Tim,
I really like documentation photos....(build sequence). The strips of covering for hinges was just the "DETAILED" information I was looking for. Thanks a lot. You're right ......"she" is beautiful!![8D]
Below is a photo of my 110", electrified, XL Big Bird. ... lownslo
Bob .. in Indy

soarhead

bob...just curious...i have a 100 big bird with flaps and a hacker c40,14x9.5 prop. i was considering the bib bird XL. whwt motor/prop are you using?

lownslo

Soarhead,
I will be glad to give you the info. I will say, I am far from an "electric guru" I do know that this combo works for me. I initially had a friend check my combo with his watt meter. I was using a 7 cell 2400 mAh Nicad at that time. Since the combo below, was put in the XL B/B, I have finally taken the plunge and went to LiPos. I also finally purchased a Watts Up watt meter and this set up "seems" to be safe........AND I KNOW it has the GOOD power for this bird which weighs 57 oz total, and RTF. When this set up is put into my Moto Calc program it is great for sailplanes, but it does show battery temps higher than 140'. I was worried about this but I have a "140' sensor sticker" on my lipos and neither battery showed any sign of heat problems. I also have felt the motor and battery quickly upon landing and they were only slightly warm. I think the secret to this is ...... my sailplane is full powered for only about 15 or 20 seconds then soars with the motor off for ______??? minutes. NOTE: As I mentioned I am not versed as well as most in the electric scene. That being said..... I replaced my ORIGINAL 40 amp Jeti with a 70 amp Jeti . (no opto). I am sure this is over kill..... but only hurts a little extra weight and my wallet.
I think the 40 amp was "right on the edge" and I did have a throttle problems.... which is another story. I stuck with Jeti and went to 70. Other brands seem to have some in between. 50's 60's etc.

Motor AXI 2820/10 ...... Jeti 70 amp controller (no opto)...... CelPro and PolyQuest Lipos 2s 2150 mAh. (yup..2cells). Prop is a 12-6.5 Aeronaught folder with 50 or 52? mm. spinner and middle yoke. (from Hobby Lobby).
I used 13-6.5 blades with the nicad packs, and it may be OK for the lipos too. I have NOT tested this with the watt meter yet.

Hope this can help. .... lownslo

PS. The one photo shows the nose .... shaped to give clearance for wires from the front of the AXI motors.
Provide as much cooling as possible. I have plastic scoops from Hobby Lobby on the nose and smaller scoops
from an antennea exit. (by DuBro if I remember correctly.
I also made a different battery cover with LOTS of exhaust vent holes.

soarhead

bob...thanks for the info. your mods look great...ken troxell