mxaexm

Whats your opinion on great planes spirit 2 m kit....

How does it compare to GL or other entry level kits ?

thanks

scaflock

I haven't built the Spirit but I have built the Spectra which is the electric version of the Spirit. The construction on them is the same except for the mods for electric power on the Spectra.

As far as building either one goes, it's not a hard build as long as you pay attention to the instructions. Their fuselage system is a bit easier than that of the Gentle Lady and is very solid. The wing is also pretty easy to do and is a bit faster than the GL in flight due to the different airfoil used on the Spirit.

If you've never flown before I'd suggest going with the Gentle Lady because it flies slower than the Spirit and will give you more time to think about what you're doing. More first sailplanes are lost to first time pilots because they build something that is beyond their flying abilities. They get into trouble in the air and the plane is so fast that they don't have time to think about what to do before it hits the ground.

If you're not in a club, join one! Having a seasoned pilot walk you through your first flights is the best way to learn.

Jeff

colmo-RCU

Ive had 2 and all of my friends in the club have had one one time or another. It builds very easy and flyes great. We live in Bogota and fly at 8500 feet AMSL, so at sea level it must be a dream. I dont hesitate to recommend it

Tall Paul

The Spirit and Spirit Elite are higher performers than the GL. (Most everything is. )
The Spirit needs to have the top of the outer wing panel sheeted with 1/32" balsa, which will delay tipstalling in tight turns.
I just lay the sheeting on top from the leading edge to the spar, and feather it into to the leading edge and the spar. Simpler than undercutting the ribs.
The planes can fly much faster and at higher weights than the GL.
I've had my electric versions carrying cameras up to 70 oz. total weight.

OzMo

My Feedback: (3)

here is an article on better set up

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

I did not build my Spirit, but it was my first glider. I loved flying it then and still do. During my training I broke it many times, not because it was fragile but because I pushed and hit it hard a bunch of times. I purchased a kit to use as a base of repairs. Basically did most of a build over time.

It is a pretty easy build and the plane flies nicely.

Some tips:

Do not use standard sized servos placed under the wing. Use mini servos, like the HItec HS-81 and move them as far forward as possible. This will help reduce the amount of nose weight needed.

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

I have a Spirit 2M. It was an easy build following the instructions. My experience has been that the fuselage is probably overbuilt. If I were building it again, I'd add some lightening holes.

The recommended balance point is on the wing spar, but it can be pushed much further back. I'm flying it with the CG at almost 50 percent of the wing wing chord at the root. This condition also allows you to not add additional nose weight.

I've since electrified mine with a 35-30-950 Rimfire motor, a 35 amp silver series ESC, a 1250 mAh 11.1 V LiPo pack, and a 10x6 folding prop. All up weight in this condition is 39 oz. It will easily climb in excess of 500 feet in about 30 seconds, and I can get 6-8 climbouts on a single charge. Without the motor, the plane flys well off a high start. I just got tired of walking all over the field.

I have specked it out thermaling on a good day, and had other days when I couldn't buy thermals. This was not my first plane, but it is my first sailplane. Watch out for the tip stall, but its quite manageable.

Brad

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

A common suggestion is to use 1/32 balsa to sheet the front of the wing tips, from the spar forward. This seems to reduce any tendency to tip stall. Of course if you turn tight, flat and slow you will tip stall any plane.

ARUP

Hi- easy to build and fly. I cut a slot in bottom and put a wheel on mine. I made a 'V' tail for it. As per another post, the CG can be moved back for better response. I'm glad to have installed spoilers. I just pulled the plans out the other day and was thinking of building another wing but 'gulling' it and using ailerons. That would look neat in the air with 'V' tail to boot.

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

Did you build that Spirit?

mxaexm

No, I didn't.

Right now I'm building Sig Mid Star 40.

maybe later on I will build myself a glider..we will see...

swixtt

i've got one of these almost finished but would like to electrify it now. what size motor do you guys recommend? looking at the Turnigy ones.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I highly recommend the spirt to anyone wanting to build a sailplane, the last kit I recommend building is the dynaflite BOT, the plane is a good design, but the wood quality is horrible. I actually want to buy another and build it as a fun lazy RES sailplane, just to take with me to the field on those perfect calm afternoons to hunt for thermals.

swixtt

thinking of this for the climb-out!
http://unitedhobbies.com/hobbyking/s...less_Outrunner

juggler-3310

I used the following Turnigy motor on my Great Planes Spirit:

http://unitedhobbies.com/hobbyking/s...Eq_AXi_2808%29

I mounted this motor in the nose with an 11X6 Aeronaut CAM folding propeller and 2200 mAh 3-cell LiPo battery. On the bench it pulls just under 25 amps at full throttle. The plane didn't require any ballast to balance, and climbs aggressively at half throttle. With this set-up you will not be disappointed. But be careful - I did fry one of these motors by applying full throttle for too long. If you want to use full throttle to max your climb out rate, a 10X6 prop might be a better choice.

juggler

mred33

It's not a turnegy, but I found that the best motor for a 2M glider for me is the KD A22-20L. I have that motor in several 2M gliders and it will pull them great. Use a 10X6 folding prop and it will climb out at about 60 degs. Never had a problem with this motor and you can get it cheap at Hobby King. I think around $10 or $12 dollars, I'm not sure now, but anything around 200W on 3S LiPo will work great.

Ed

xxl

So I should use mini servos and sheet the leading edge of the wing in 1 32 balsa?

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

I would recommend something like Hitec HS81, 82 or 85s for the rudder and elevator. I have seen HS65s used for the rudder. If you are going to have servos in the spoilers they can be very light. HS-55s are more than strong enough.

Sheeting the the wing from spar to leading edge will make for a better airfoil but adds weight. Note that 1/32 balsa is thin and so it is somewhat fragile. When handling the Spirit, pick it up by the fuse, not the wing.