TELEBEE Gyro late fligh drifts
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TELEBEE Gyro late fligh drifts
I have a Telebee 701 in normal (not heading hold) mode on a Shuttle ZXX. It's been flying well for about 1 1/2 years.
Now I begin the day with the rudder trim centered and by the third flight my rudder trim is full right. At this point I put her away, scratch my head but take her out the next weekend to experience the same thing. I have adjusted and readjusted the gain and revo but nothing seems to help the loss of stayability of the tail about the third flight.
Any info would be helpfull. You can hold the advise about a new gyro - that's already in the works. If I can figure this telebee out I'll be putting it on my other "benched" shuttle ZTS.
Thanks
Macfly
Now I begin the day with the rudder trim centered and by the third flight my rudder trim is full right. At this point I put her away, scratch my head but take her out the next weekend to experience the same thing. I have adjusted and readjusted the gain and revo but nothing seems to help the loss of stayability of the tail about the third flight.
Any info would be helpfull. You can hold the advise about a new gyro - that's already in the works. If I can figure this telebee out I'll be putting it on my other "benched" shuttle ZTS.
Thanks
Macfly
#2
TELEBEE Gyro late fligh drifts
How has the outside air temp changed??? When I was using one it would drift like crazy as the air temps changed. It lasted about 3 more months then started to twitch and I just replaced it with a new gyro.
Dru.
Dru.
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Telebee drifty
BLVD BUZZARD
I think I am at the same point. This time of the year the temp
could fluctuate 10-15 degrees during my flight sessions not to mention the humidity.
Thanks for letting me know what is in the telebees future.
Macfly
I think I am at the same point. This time of the year the temp
could fluctuate 10-15 degrees during my flight sessions not to mention the humidity.
Thanks for letting me know what is in the telebees future.
Macfly
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wrestling with the telebee
The telebee gyro can be stabilized if a number of
variables are addressed. Vibration can cause a change
in gain, causing the drift. I isolated my sensor in 1/3 inch
of foam on all sides, in a small paper box, it made a noticeable improvement. [also prevents minor temperature changes] The directions state that you should turn off
your revo and other programs, the gyro circuit provides
all of the parameters for operation. Make sure your
gyro is mounted near the cg or main shaft. I also used a
higher speed standard servo, the hitec hs525, with a moderate .18
speed with good results. Make sure the placement of the ball connector on the
servo control arm is far enough out, usually 15-20mm from
center, to give the faster response
required to control the tail. Check your tail control rod supports
on the boom, if they slip, the system will hunt for a stable position, resetting would not help this condition. Your boom
rod assembly can come loose, making the control rod length variable.
Also add some negative expo, experiment with -20 to -55 to eliminate
over sensitivity, works great. Finally Keep the rate and HH
settings fairly close [from the median setting] to eliminate changes when switching
to the other mode. Hope this helps, mine worked ok,
especially when I added the foam box to limit vibration.
Remember to -tape your crystal in your receiver and
wire your batt and other connectors to prevent them from vibrating
out. We lost 3 helis this month [out of total of 7] to these 2
gremlins. Use light copper wire thru the wire to secure the
plug fitting together. Good luck on your setup...skyhawk mich
email for my latest improved pseudo training gear.............
variables are addressed. Vibration can cause a change
in gain, causing the drift. I isolated my sensor in 1/3 inch
of foam on all sides, in a small paper box, it made a noticeable improvement. [also prevents minor temperature changes] The directions state that you should turn off
your revo and other programs, the gyro circuit provides
all of the parameters for operation. Make sure your
gyro is mounted near the cg or main shaft. I also used a
higher speed standard servo, the hitec hs525, with a moderate .18
speed with good results. Make sure the placement of the ball connector on the
servo control arm is far enough out, usually 15-20mm from
center, to give the faster response
required to control the tail. Check your tail control rod supports
on the boom, if they slip, the system will hunt for a stable position, resetting would not help this condition. Your boom
rod assembly can come loose, making the control rod length variable.
Also add some negative expo, experiment with -20 to -55 to eliminate
over sensitivity, works great. Finally Keep the rate and HH
settings fairly close [from the median setting] to eliminate changes when switching
to the other mode. Hope this helps, mine worked ok,
especially when I added the foam box to limit vibration.
Remember to -tape your crystal in your receiver and
wire your batt and other connectors to prevent them from vibrating
out. We lost 3 helis this month [out of total of 7] to these 2
gremlins. Use light copper wire thru the wire to secure the
plug fitting together. Good luck on your setup...skyhawk mich
email for my latest improved pseudo training gear.............
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TELEBEE Gyro late fligh drifts
As the Telebee is used over time it seems to wear down the chip board inside into a white dust thereby making the entire inner unit somewhat loose inside the case which causes several different problems - at least thats what I found with mine. I opened the case, cleaned out all the white dust and then put a small piece of foam on the inside top of the case to better press down the chip board and prevent it from moving around. This made my 701 perform like it should. I have vey little drift and its has been working well for a long time now. Maybe soon I should re-open the case to see how things are going inside?