thermal7

critterx. glad u got the manual...
never heard term pionion pitch...unless they are talking about the pitch of the teeth...weird...I would take the motor and then remember the mesh is just straight inline with the side of the main gear...I really dont know...hope u get it figured out...somebody will chime in who knows this term hopefully...Ralph

l9cuppar

Well things are looking better for this beginner after about 10 flights. (still hoverining, just started trying nose in). Managed to avoid the house, clothes line, trees and and fence but for how long ? Have to find a bigger field I think.
The Falcon is proving to be reliable. The extended vertical tail piece is a must - haven't broken any more tail shafts since. I've still got three spares... Is it possible I may have to replace parts due to wear rather than breakage ???!!!!
Blue loctite seems to work well on the motor screws, have not had to tighten them again.
One problem I still have is the tail shaft still loosens at the drive end. I think it's cos the tailshaft tube so soft the screw just drills into it. I splashed a bit of blue loctite around inside the clamp but as was suggested maybe a thin piece of metal at the clamp will do it.
Must be lucky no problems with the electrics on this one.

One question about the PIT knob. From what I have read here I understand it it used to increase or decrease the blade pitch in normal mode. Mine does not seem to do anything. If I have the throttle on about 60% just about to hover of I turn the PIT it does not seem to move the blade pitch servo at all ? Any Ideas ?

Happy Hovering

Loui

lippucci

Got it ..thanks a heap! Norm

austintyler

PLEASE HELP! ************************************************** ************************************************** *********************************
To explain my problem I need to go back to last week when I was making adjustments to my new Futaba radio with the Falcon, after a few tweaks of the gyro itself as I was trying to lift off and then power completely died. I just got my replacement gyro from HL, plugged it all in and realized my tail servo was dead, I replaced the servo and powered up in the house to make sure everything is working. Took it outside and powered up then I noticed all the servos bouncing around then it all died, no power now and the gyro just blinks. what am I doing? Is it possible I have the transmitter setting to a point where its frying all my gyros? HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

UPDATE
I fooled around a bit with it, it seems the gyro didnt die, it arms now. I've run into a new question. I noticed even though my tail servo arm is perpendicular to the tail shaft I noticed if I give input for rudder, the tail servo arm moves too far to the left(if looking at the tail servo with the motor to the left of it) but it doesnt move to far too the right. Is this something I can control with Tx "end points?????" Is this supposed to be like that???BTW I believe the tail blade pitch is set up properly, it looks about right just from eye balling it( I havent gotten it off the ground since I bought this darn Tx).

DarkSide41

With the stock transmitter I could never get the tail servo to move but one direction also . I guess ArtTech assumes it doesn't need to correct that way since the rotors will naturally rotate the nose left for you if you are not adding any right rudder with the stick . Leaving the gyro unplugged from ch 5 will help as you can not make gyro gain adjustments with it plugged in (the ch 5 switch is not connected to the transmitter circuit board ) . Mine worked much better leaving the gyro remote gain ch disconnected . The Falcon really came alive after I started using the Spektrum DX7 though . It seems to have awakened all the stock servos and gyro ! The tail servo has almost complete range of motion now left/right and the gyro is much more precise in holding the tail .


Edit note : I just noticed that you have a Futaba radio and not the stock Tx . Put the radio on throttle hold (setup at 0% throttle) so the servos will operate without spinning up the rotors . Disconnect the linkage rod from the tail servo arm and move the rudder stick full left and right to visually check the range of motion . Take the servo arm off and place it straight up and down when it is stopped in the center position , now move the tail blade pitch arm so as the blades are at 0 degree pitch and slide the tail servo lenghtwise on the boom until you can reattach the linkage rod keeping the two adjustments in the center . Mine will still never move to the right as much as the left but it doesn't need to because of the natural counter rotation of the body to the main blades . It only takes a very small movement left of the rudder stick to get it to move left . It takes more to move right and overcome the forces of the main blades so you need more movement in the servo in that direction . Hope that helps .

Turismo

Hey,

I have a question about the stock TX / RX . I bought my Falcon used off e-bay and it must of been originally purchased from one of the Chinese online dealers as it came with the 35mhz TX/RX. Is it possible to change it to 72mhz just by changing the crystal set in the TX/RX or are they completely different units with different electronics that are not compatible? I know I really need to get a better setup eventually like the DX7 but I bought this bird at a cheap price and dont want to invest that much cash yet but am concerned about the possibility of interference on the 35mhz frequency.

Thanks in advance!

DarkSide41

http://cgi.ebay.com/Walkera-Dragonfl...QQcmdZViewItem

Just replace the crystals .

critterz

Thanks thermal7.

I got a pinion from another hobbyist that happen to have a spare one from his Trex. He flys a Trex 450 for fun when he is done with his Vibe 90 so I'm glad he had one to spare. He wouldn't take any money for it though..

PappyFarland

I do not think it is legal to replace a Transmitter crystal without being licensed (in the US anyway by the FCC). 35/40 Mhz is usually used for RC in Europe you might be able to send it back to the company that you bought it from to get it replaced (legally)

thermal7

I have 2 complete systems one on 40 MHZ and the other on 35 MHZ that both came from Hong Kong dealer for the Falcon 3D. I could not get 72 MHZ crystals to work in these units either transmitter or receiver. Thats why I finally bought the Spektrum DX7 sytem which I use in the Falcon 3D from Ebay Hong Kong dealer. I went back and forth with him over trying to get a 72 MHZ system. Both the systems he sent me were marked for 72 MHZ including the incorrectly marked 72 MHZ crystals. Just didn't work for me. I would not fly with the 35 MHZ units. If you are able to get them working with new 72 MHZ crystals that would be great BUT check the frequency with a scanning receiver tuned to the transmitter frequency and check that is in fact on the channel you changed it to. Unless these units are broadbanded, your receiver sensitivity may be way down and your transmitter output power also reduced if they are not. Its true you are not suppose to be changing transmit crystals in any FCC approved transmitter on 72 MHZ. Guys do it all the time if able to find a suitable crystal but its at your own risk. You may change receiver crystals legally anytime.
Ralph

thermal7

Flying update for Sunday July 15th...The weather was great except for the 15 mph winds here in Northern California where I fly. My Buddy Van flew first and he was doing great with fast forward flight and high hovers. All of a sudden he lost tail control and his bird was "Spinning like a top" about 100 feet off the ground over some trees. He stayed with it hoping the problem would correct itself but sadly his Falcon 3D came down hard nose first into the dirt. The damages were surprising with only the motor guts coming out, rotor blade damage and some bent linkages. His bird is equipped with all the upgrades except for the swashplate. The Easton arrow shaft 2213 XX75 boom, carbon drive shaft, CPD4 CoPilot and alumininum CNC tail and rotors were all intact with no damage. He spent the rest of the day rebuilding and he never got back in the air.

I flew several times and have 40 flights now with no crashes. Did have a few things gone wrong on the ground but that was operator error such as not having the DX7 radio in normal mode when trying to run up the rotor. Safety feature engaged. Another time, I forgot to arm my CPD4 for the Level Setup before running up the rotor and my Falcon did the "Chicken Dance" before I could lift off. One other problem was that the Falcon Gyro wasn't arming. Failed to wait the 11 seconds and the heli was spinning like a top on the ground. Rearmed and waited. No further problems. Other than that, I had some good flights. Van shot a video of these things happening and I put together another video on You Tube. Its uploading to the site right now. The camera we use is an El Cheapo Mustek 4000 so the quality is crappy but its fun being able to bring some comedy to this forum watching a couple beginners.

Will post the Link to my new video soon as it finishes uploading to YOU TUBE.

Everyone have a great week,

Ralph

thermal7

Heres my new video showing a "Chicken Dance" worth watching. Those stock Hong Kong solid carbon blades sure took a beating but they were undamaged. No damage whatsoever to the heli. Not even a crack or nick!!! A thorough preflight revealed it was flight worthy. Video also shows some on the ground problems and reasons why they happened and lastly my flight 40 with the Falcon 3D. Still no crashes after getting in the air. The CPD4 CoPilot continues doing a great job for me. Just a beginner learning and having fun with my Falcon 3D's.
Heres the link...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=x5APzuODPK4

Ralph

n-o-r-c-o

How do I adjust the pitch if it is off in the throttle curve

PappyFarland

Thanks For sharing that video Ralph I will have to be careful about that chicken dance once I get my CPD4. Your videos are very inspiring for me.

PappyFarland

Pitch is adjusted with the Pit knob if you are using the stock Transmitter. I believe they set it to about the ten O'clock postition (the PLT knob is set to 2 O'clock)

thermal7

Are u using the stock equipment or do you have a transmitter with throttle and pitch curve setup?
Whatever you have you should put a pitch gage on your rotor blade one or other and with your throttle stick all the way down, the rotor blade should indicate 0 or minus one on the pitch gage. Now run the throttle all the way up and measure it again. Should be like +7 to +9 if you are just flying in normal mode. These measurements off the pitch gage should be with the blade aligned with the flybar. Hold the flybar stable and horizontal and the reading will be taken when the blade is level with the flybar. On the pitch gage you unlock the nut so it moves freely so you can make your measurements. Hope this helps a little.
The Falcon 3D manual says +9 to +11 for normal flight mode. I find that reducing the pitch to somewhere between +7 and +9 will give you a higher head speed.
Higher head speed and less pitch equals a cooling running more efficient motor and cooler battery. I started out with the stock radio with the lower head speed and higher pitch. Especially when hovering, your motor will get very hot and it may result in shorter run time and also a motor that will fall apart if you continue to fly with a HOT motor. Try the higher head speed and lower pitch. You will be happy with the results.
Ralph

PappyFarland

Ralph, what was your setup for the DX7 for your pitch and throttle curves? I did basicly what that video over at Helifreak said and seems to work ok but I am a bit nervous about the real high head speed.

n-o-r-c-o

How do i set up the collective pitch arm to normal cuz I took the arm off the servo and dont know how to put it back to normal\
how do you adjust the pitch do you use the collective pitch arm or do you change something else im using the stock trans

thermal7

PAPPYFARLAND
Thanks for comments...Well I have my DX7 in front of me...will try and read some settings back to you...

Throttle

Normal Mode
L = 0
1 = 50%
2 = 80%
3 = 90%
H = 100%

ST1
L = 100%
1 = 95%
2 = 90%
3 = 95%
H = 100%

ST2
Same as ST1

Only have used Normal Mode

Pitch

Normal
L = 0
1 = 35%
2 = 50%
3 = 75%
H = 90% (This use to be a 100% but turned it back to 90%...more head speed less pitch and cooler motor!)

ST1
L = 100%
1 = 90 %
2 = 50%
3 = 95%
H = 100%

ST2
L = 100%
1 = 75%
2 = 50%
3 = 75%
H = 100%

Only use Normal for Pitch

My Gyro is set at 72% for swich positions 0 and 1 on one heli...other heli set for 68%

Not sure why difference but 72% using the 6100 receiver
and 68% for the 6000 receiver other Falcon 3D

So far these settings are working pretty good. I have solid Carbon Blades on one heli and the cheap 6 dollar 3DX-400 blades on the other. Both blades fly well and are giving similiar flight characteristics.

Let me know how you do with your CPD4. Just don't forget to hold right stick to set the LEVEL position for the CPD4 after you initialize it and set it down for flight. Walk back 10 paces and hold either full RIGHT or full LEFT aileron to SET the LEVEL POSITION. If you forget to do this, the swashplace will be waiting for the command and in the meantime just rotating and not locked. This is why the Chicken Dance in the video. Stupid me...

Ralph
http://youtube.com/watch?v=x5APzuODPK4

n-o-r-c-o

are those settings the same for the DX6

clw1

i

austintyler

I cant get my gyro to arm outside, but it will arm inside. I am in Phoenix, its extremely hot outside, an average of 110 degrees. Is anyone out there in hot climates having my same problem?

update: yeah, gyro still wont arm, just blinks even if I'm inside. Before I went outside, the heli was functional, I go outside and its dead. I dont get it.

thermal7

Yes would work if you have 5 point curves or you will have to take out few points if you only have 3 point curves...Modes on DX7 are Norm and ST1 and ST2...I am only doing normal flight so just using the Norm mode at present. I think the settings should work...I backed off my pitch curve high position to 90 per cent in order to get less pitch and higher head speed...the motor only gets WARM now after flights...Good Luck, Ralph

thermal7

Well it gets HOT here in Sacramento...my gyro on Sunday did not lock in until the full 11 seconds went by...I experienced no movement of the tail servo and the heli just spun around like a top on the ground. I unplugged the flight battery and plugged it back in, transmitter on first before you plug in the flight battery...give it time to lock in up to 11 seconds and then wiggle the left stick...should have rudder tail servo movement...just be sure the transmitter is ON before you connect the flight battery and then wait for the gyro to lock in, Mine on occasion has not locked in for several seconds so good luck with yours. I don't think the high temp has any bearing on whether it will work or not.
Ralph
PS in my latest video from Sunday 7-15 you can see the tail spinning and then I figured out the gyro hadnt locked in///video link http://youtube.com/watch?v=x5APzuODPK4

Carbsumer

Your pitch for both ST1 and ST2 should be:

L = 0%
1 = 25%
2 = 50%
3 = 75%
H = 100%

50% = 0 pitch, 0% = full negative pitch, 100% = full positive pitch.