Mack66

You may wish to consider installing push pull linkage on your throttle servo, to help eliminate the possibility of binding issues (especially at full throttle).

Something else wrong with it...where is the oil slick and bits of grass all over it???? LOL

Mack

mydartswinger

jets,
First off, welcome to the thread and RCU. If the inner and outer plates on the swash, in fact, have separated, you must replace the entire swash.

Takeshi,
I use the e-Flite pitch gauge and have no issues with it. After setting the desired pitch on the gauge, just eyeball the flybar paralell to the tail boom, then eyeball the top of the gauge paralell to the flybar. Yeah, a level would be nice, but not needed. It may not be 100% accurate, but is pretty close. I use it on all my helis on through my Raptor 50. It's close enough to make sport aerobatics comfortable with my 50.

Later,
Shannon

matty_p80

Jimbo you know we have different colours aswell as language here across the pond ha ha ha ha! it's just last time we were out in a hobby shop together you grabbed some pink as a 'Justin' !!!

Takeshi, it's not necesarily having the gauge level, just level with the flybar which should be perpendicular (90deg.) to the main shaft! so in theory you could do it on a 45 deg incline as long as the previous mentioned criteria is fulfilled (not that you would as it would be silly![sm=bananahead.gif])

Jet-man, welcome! if you can't get it sorted out with this bunch, don't really know where else to go! there's a lot of knowledge and experience here! oh, you do have to wade through some waffle every now and again but a quick intervention gets 'em back on the right topic again hee hee hee hee!

well i read through the manual for the ancient Futaba last night!! all i can say is thank heavens for progress and computer Tx's! [sm=49_49.gif]even more so having everything on a screen on the Tx! blisss! you needed a degree just to read the manual! har har!

getting late now so going to have a sift through the other threads and spread some more of my disinformation

be good and if you can't be good better be a darn good shot!!

Matty )

TakeshiSkunk

Didn't really have much of a chance to do anything this weekend, friend came over and I ended up being out of the house a lot. I'll double check my TH pitch curve tomorrow, thanks for the advice.

Anyone have any idea what to do about my throttle issue with the Tx?

dooleyje

Does the throttle stop when you give it low stick?. If no,t just pull the trim backand go into throttle curve and give position 1to 0. where stick is all the way back.


Sorry about last night I ddid not write about gyros.. I fell asleep. I will try to do this evening.

Matty ..well it is sorta pink I have to admit LOL All in honor of Donica!!

Jim

TakeshiSkunk

Position 1 is set to 0, but you know how on the throttle and pitch curve screens in the DX6i it displays a vertical line indicating the position of the throttle stick? When the stick is in full down position, that line isn't all the way to the left/zero position. It's about halfway between Position 1 and Position 2.

At full stick it's JUST shy of the max position on the graph, and if I apply a bit of force to it it goes up to it. That, however, is close enough that I'm not really concerned about it.

The thing is that the throttle is very sensitive around low stick due to the fact that it's not zeroing out all the way. The slightest bump of the stick causes it to start spinning up. I'm pretty sure it wasn't acting like this the first couple times I tested the motor.

No worries about gettin' some sleep man! I've just been biding my time, asking questions, and learning from you guys, I've got nothing but time at the moment...I am dying to get this thing off the ground though lol

EDIT: weird, I think I just got it straightened out. I just went through to the monitor and messed with the trim a little to give it an even throw in both directions from it's zero position, and went back and it was all lined up. I had tried pulling the trim all the way back to get it as low as possible on the Throttle Curve screen and only got it to come back one mark or so, but after going to the monitor screen and actually removing all but a tiny bit of the trim it seems to be OK.

Also remembered how to bind all my D/R to a single switch like I have on my Typhoon, I'd been trying to remember for a while and didn't feel like dragging out the DX6i manual just for that :P

So yeah...dunno what that was all about.

EDIT2: ****!!! SCARY! OK SO I thought it was all straightened out, powered it up just to check, it went RIGHT BACK to what it was doing before, when I turned off the throttle hold it started spooling up immediately. Mostly just annoyed at that point. Threw on the throttle hold, stupidly turned off the Tx before disconnecting the battery, AND THE THING STARTED UP AS SOON AS THE RADIO SHUT DOWN. It wasn't spinning up fast thank god, I turned the radio right back on with Throttle Hold engaged, zero stick, and very carefully reached under the blades to try to disconnect them. The motor didn't stop as soon as the radio came on but they did stop before I managed to get the battery disconnected. I have no idea what the hell is going on x.x I'm starting to worry that I might have some kind of defective part, which would be about par for the course with Horizon. PLEASE tell me this is not the case.

On an unrelated note, is the only real way to adjust your pitch settings in all flight modes to disconnect the motor leads? Also, I still don't understand why the DX6i will only start up on a heli profile with Throttle Hold turned OFF. That seems completely opposite of how it should be.

matty_p80

Takky

don't know if you were aware of it at the time but there was a recall of certain DX6i's! don't know of the serial #'s recalled but if you go on the Spectrum site it will tell you! just a thought!!

yeah! i couldn't fathom that one out with the TH but it's just the way it is!!!??!!



woo hoo! finally i've had an e-mail confirming they've sent the blades at last for the monster Moskito! mwaarr haarrrr haarrrr!!! hopefully have the ancient heap in the air by the end of the week! yahoo!

hope everyone is flying in some form or another

Matty )

TakeshiSkunk

Pretty sure I checked the recall info way back when, but I looked again just to be sure.

My date code is one of the ones that they say should be "carefully checked," but as per their suggested test everything looks fine. And like I said, I've been flying the Typhoon 2 on this radio for a year without any real issues.

dooleyje

The ESC does not have a soft start that I am aware of. In your manual there should be directions on programming the ESC. The throttle will start as soon as you push the throttle the higher you push the trim on the throttle the more throttle you will have. You have to ease it up. Now,, if the throttle start with out the stick moving from all the way down them pull the trim back. The ESC will not arm unless the power is all the way back as the ESC sees it. If you do not see the directions go th www.HorizonHobby.com and look at support and manuals. On my DX6I my line will line up next to the dotted left line when the value it set to 00 in the L for normal mode. Look at your travel adjustment program and make sure you have 100% for throttle and go to your Sub trim program and make sure you do not have thrttle programed with any value.. Needs to be 0. I wouldn't think you have the stick pop probelm if you have the newer radios The number in the battery tray will tell you if you have by matching it with the listed serial codes on the web site. If there are no stckers in the battery holder under the batteries or on the battery door you are fine. Let me know

Jim

TakeshiSkunk

The sticker says HE810E, which horizon did say was one of the numbers to "check carefully"

Their check consisted of watching the indicators on the monitor page as you smoothly move each stick through its full range of motion, watching for any jerking or jumping. Everything moves very smoothly for me, I've observed no irregularity at all.

dooleyje

I lost my post a real long one dang about gyros... I will try another time.

Jim

cajungirl

Hi theah all y'all,
Wowsers, this shore is a busy thread these days. Lotsa brainpower bein' used. Gyros??? Had one of those once at the county fair. Had it on a toasted hoagie bun with hot mustard. Curves and trims??? I keep mine under control at the gym. Throttle stick??? I throttled my brother once when he hit me with a stick. Actually, I'm really enjoying reading all the info y'all are puttin' out even though lots of it is way more technynickle than I can understand. Jay tries to explain some of it to me on the phone and gets some of it to sink in. Someday I'll be spittin' out some of those 50 cent words like you guys do and actually know what I'm sayin'. For now I'll read what you say and try my best to absorb some of it. I'm lucky to have an experienced partner to help me. I learn somethin' from him every time we're out flyin' together. He's such a patient, gentle teacher it's part of the fun.

Hay Jet,
Nice to have you drop in. Matty's right. Lots of teachin' goes on here and as you can tell some wafflin' too. Most of that from me. We like to have fun and friendship here along with the business stuff. Hope we don't frustrate ya.

Matty matey,
Good to hear your parts are on their way. I really hope you get that heli up and away real soon and it flies good for ya. Did you get to use the sledge yet?

It's official, I'll be stayin' in Okie City all the way through the first week of February. Then I'll have two weeks off to spend in Nebr. Wooo-Hooo. I get to be there for Jays b'day on the 16th.

Went out flyin' yesterday and my T Rex was just great. Nothing broke or wore out. I had two of my gal pals from work with me and we had a buncha fun. The day started out lookin' like it was gonna be cold and wet, but cleared up early in the afternoon and got warmer. There's been a lot of cool foggy stuff here lately and it looks like more of that comin'.

Hay Mr. JD,
Ain't nuthin' wrong with pink now. I like the pink tube you used. Thanks for thinkin' of me. That little idler you mentioned taking off the tail assy. is already off. I don't remember when for sure but a ways back that came up on here and Jay had done it to his helis right away. When we built mine we took it off then. I did check the tension on the belt I put on recently and I had it too tight. I don't know if the other one was or not. Jay said he didn't think so. It was the stock belt that came with the heli and he thinks maybe it was just a bad belt from the start. I put on one of the orange ones he gave me as a spare. 'Sposed to be a better belt. I reset the tension on it last night and today it performed perfectly. I don't know if running it looser would be the reason, but it seems like the tail doesn't jump to one side as much on spin up now. Jay wanted me to check the old belt to see if maybe some teeth were missing but I had already tossed it out.

Jay wants me to tell y'all hello for him. He's been real tied up with the work he and Ames are doin'. They're 'bout done now and he'll get a break. The weather in Nebr. is turnin' back to winter again so he hasn't done much little heli flyin'. Tomorrow he'll be spendin' the day helpin' Ames' mechanic so some maintenance on the black beauty. I can tell by his voice on the phone he's enjoyin' bein' involved out there again a lot. He's got to put some miles on that hot rod Harley lately too and says it's runnin' real good and is purty zippy with the new motor parts in it.

Oh boy, lost track of time again. It's just so much fun here. I gotta go and sleep. 'Nuther day of work comin' up.

Please be safe, healthy and happy.

Donica

TakeshiSkunk

WHAT?!! A GYRO ON A BUN WITH MUSTARD? BLASPHEMY D:

The only way to enjoy a gyro is on a pita with tzatziki sauce

rcmiket

I've been following you issues from the sidelines. First thing I would do is wipe the memory on that model and start from scratch. This way your at 0 all across the board. If you want make notes of your settings. I work with the 6i a lot doing repairs on helis for the LHS and have never seen issues like your having. This leads me toward a possible bad TX although I've run across a few bad receivers some right out of the box the 6110 seems to be the biggest as far as issues. Here's a link to the Helifreak site they have heli 101 Videos that might help you out. You have to register but its well worth it.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692

Going it alone is no fun and very frustrating. I'll go back on this thread and see just what your using and try and help sort this out.
hang in there
Mike

rcmiket

OK I'm guessing that its a stock B400. New or used? Any mods to it? The gyro is set on the gear switch down is rate up in HH always start in HH. Check the belt tension. There's a fine line between love and hate on the B400 there. Here's another site that may help.
Mike

http://www.slyster.com/heli/b400bible.html

cajungirl

Hay everybody,
It's a kinda slow day at work so I'm takin' a rare coffee break. It's lookin' like rain at any minute here right now. Don't know if I'll get to fly outside today or not. I can always take the 520 into the big room here at the hospital and play though. Have to see what's up later.

Oh my, "blasphemy"???? Gosh, I've never gone religious over a sandwich. They had several bread choices there and I'd never had one of those before. I just picked what I thought I'd like. They spelled it "giro" 'stead of "gyro". Pronounced it 'geero' too. Guess I'll have to have one on a pocket bread with that sauce someday. Maybe that'll restore my salvation. I really liked the seasonings on the meat though.

I've been havin' some troubles losin' posts on here too. Seems their server times you out kinda quick and their built in software that's supposed to prevent that isn't working very well. I'm making it a habit to write my posts in notepad and pasting to the forum site.

Just heard my name on the PA. Duty calls. See y'all later.

matty_p80

Jim

i'm in need again! was just checking out the pitch angles (Moskito) of the blades and at zero stick (all the way back) the pitch was reading 3.5deg! should it be nearer 0 deg on a non-3D heli such as this one or is 3 deg not enough to make a difference at idle as it goes up to 15 deg full deflection??

i would be really surprised if this was how it was originally set up as the guy who owns it, like i said in previous posts, does his own maintenance on his Jet Ranger 206 full scale and he claims to have had it in the air previously!!

Matty )

rcmiket

I normally set them up close to zero at 1/2 stick. Everything should be level on the head at 1/2 stick. As far as the low end -3.5 isn't bad for a tame set up but it might cause a problem in the wind a bit more negative helps there. Thought I'd throw my 2 cents in as I had time.
Mike

matty_p80

yeah, Mike, this isn't a 3D machine, it's an old, discontinued model from Robbe called the Moskito and it's reading a positive 3.5 deg. at zero stick!![]

doing it up for a friend and it's my first venture into anything that isn't electric or 3D!!

Matty )

TakeshiSkunk

Alright, I'll try wiping the memory and starting fresh with the B400 profile today. It's a brand new, unmodified B400 PNP. So when I start up the heli I want the gyro switch in the up position for HH, and the down position is rate up? I'm still not totally clear on why I would need to change my gyro gain mid flight.

I really wish the LHS was a little closer and a bit more accessible for heli related issues. They have a (so I hear) very good heli pilot, but he's the guy that hurt himself. There are apparently one or two other good heli pilots that are in and out, but they mostly just fly big nitros and don't do any 3d. Also they don't actually work there so getting in touch with them isn't quite as easy.




Oh and regarding gyros, yeah the meat is the most important part definite, probably my favorite meat :O Just wait till you try it with the sauce though it'll blow your mind.

rcmiket

Always gear switch up to set the gyro at HH. You should not have to change any gain settings in flight. Do not use the rudder trim on the radio if you must fool with it go into the sub trim menu and do it there.

You can set up the heli in rate buy adjusting the length of the push rod in or out depending on which way the tail is drifting. Once set up this way it will hold but nothing like in HH. Its takes a bit of fooling with.

Have you looked at those links I sent? I understand your frustration but you need to understand that the B400 servos are really pretty low end and will not center as good servos will so there's never that locked in hands off feel to the Blade. I realize this sounds complicated but it rather simple once you understand how theses things work. Lets work on one problem at a time here. Pick one and work with it till its solved.
Mike

TakeshiSkunk

Well my only actual problem right now is with the Tx/throttle. I didn't have a chance to try redoing the profile today, might yet tonight.

But yeah I was never really complaining about my servo response or centering or anything, honestly everything looks pretty much fine in that respect. My question was just, why is there a switch to toggle between the different gyro gain settings? When would it be used?

Anyway, going to check out those links now.

flyachopper1

Hello flyers,
Whew, got an evening to myself. I treated myself to a big Bourbon Street steak at Applebees and now I am settled in with an MGD at home. Lots of discussion lately on gyros, autorotation and impatience. First off I feel I have to repeat that one should not hurry with their flying adventures. Autorotation is something you learn later after you can fly the heli normally. Don't overload yourself with too many skill attempts or you will not learn any of them right. One step at a time.

Okay, on gyros. I warn you this will be lengthy. Those little wonders are the best thing to happen to helis. I began flying back when they didn't exist. You know, when helis were made of hollowed out rocks with little lizards running in a wheel for power. My first gyro was the original Futaba model that was mechanical. Two spinning wheels standing on their sides and run by a separate motor. Big drain on the old NiCad packs of the time. It worked though. Ok, on to the valuable info.

A lot of new pilots get stuck on the idea that a gyro is to compensate for the effects of wind on a heli. We here are beyond that reasoning. The actual function of a gyro is to compensate for sudden loads on the main rotor. The tail will spin at somewhat over twice the speed of the main rotor, so, if you drop 100 rpm from the head speed then you will drop over 200 rpm from the tail speed. Being that the tail rotor is a lot smaller than the main rotor and its effectiveness is dependent on the speed and every collective and cyclic change effects the tail. Because we have highly advanced gyros these days does not mean you do not have to take this effect into consideration. Any gyro will work its best when you can keep the head speed constant. This means fine tuning both the throttle curve and cyclic mixing is important to getting maximum performance from your gyro.

The difference between heading hold (hh) and standard rate (non-hh)is that in rate mode the gyro just dampens unwanted movements of the tail. If you are hovering and a constant wind hits the helicopter from the side, the gyro will keep the helicopter from suddenly swinging nose into the wind, but, eventually the helicopter will drift nose into the wind. All the gyro is doing is preventing any jerk type reaction.

In hh mode the gyro keeps the nose pointed until you command it to move. If you fly sideways leaving the rudder stick centered the nose will remain pointed in the same direction.

In rate mode doing a slow pirouette (one rotation) with the wind to keep the helicopter spinning at the same rate you move the rudder stick more as the tail is going upwind and less as the tail goes downwind. In heading hold, the gyro will tell the rudder servo to move more or less to maintain the constant rate. You hold the rudder stick in one place. In heading hold when making a turn in fast forward you will notice the tail will not follow the helicopter. You must input some rudder in your turns. Also you will notice the rudder stick feels different. In heading hold, the amount you move the rudder stick from center tells the gyro how many degrees per second that you want the helicopter to rotate. The gyro moves the rudder servo however much it needs to obtain that rotation rate.

Tail lock, smart lock, AVCS, heading hold are all just different names for the same thing. Vendors like to try and make you think their version is the neatest and newest.

As for rudder ATV values also known as end point or travel adjust in rate mode, this function in your radio is used to set how far the rudder linkage will travel. In heading hold this function works completely different. You use it to set the max rotation rate. So what do you do about limiting the travel so as not to allow the servo to bind? Some gyros have a limit adjustment on them that you use to set this. The ones that do not require you to move the ball on the servo arm further or closer to the center of the servo arm to limit the travel.

If you are in heading hold you do not use rudder trim. The reason for this is because in heading hold gyros are looking for a centered command from the radio to keep the helicopter from rotating. Moving rudder trim a few clicks one way or the other causes a gyro in heading hold mode to think you want it to spin in that direction. Say you have switched to rate mode and the helicopter is rotating left. You will add a little right trim until the helicopter holds. When you switch back to heading hold the helicopter will rotate to the right.

Getting a helicopter trimmed in both heading hold and rate confuses a lot of people because they do the setup out of order. Your first step is to center the trim and zero the sub-trim. Then with the gyro in heading hold mode adjust the sub-trim so the helicopter does not rotate. Normally this should be zero but due to small differences in radios and some gyros you will find you have to adjust the sub-trim. Step two is switch to rate mode and if the helicopter drifts, then adjust the rudder linkage. If the helicopter is drifting left then turn the link clockwise, opposite if drifting the other direction. Spinning out of control as soon as it gets light on the skids is another very common thing. This is causd by the reverse setting on the gyro. Do not confuse this with the reverse settings in the radio. They are not the same. To check the gyro, move the rudder stick to the right. The tail control rod should pull toward the front of the helicopter. Next pick up the helicopter by the rotor head. Grab the tail boom and quickly rotate the helicopter so the nose goes to the left and watch the control rod. It needs to move forward. If not, the gyro is backwards. Most gyros have a reverse switch or jumper located on the gyro. This is not done in the radio. Some gyros require you to turn the gyro upside down.

Be right back. Need another MGD.

Gyro gain refers to the sensitivity of the gyro. When the gyro senses unwanted movement it commands the tail servo to move in the opposite direction to compensate. How much it tells the servo to move is the 'gain'. Ideally the amount of gain should match the unwanted movement so it stays pointed in the same direction and does not move. If the gain is too high then the helicopter over compensates. The effect you will see is the tail will wag. If the gain is not enough then you will notice the tail does not hold. When setting the gain, you want to turn it up until you see the tail 'wag' then turn the gain back down until that stops.

To set gyros with remote gain will depend on the what radio you have and how you set it up. Some radios do not have a dedicated gyro function. To determine if yours does refer to the manual. For those that don't you adjust the gain in the travel adjust (end Point, EPA, ATV) menu. In this menu select the gear channel (channel 5) and use the switch assigned to it to toggle between the gain setting for heading hold and rate mode. For radios with gyro menus leave the atv's set to the default values (usually 100) and then use the gyro menu to set the gain. Gyros without remote gain will have an adjustment on the gyro. It is usually a small pot that you use a screwdriver to turn. Different radios treat gain values differently. In some the range in the gyro menu is 0 to 100. From 0 to 50 is one mode (such as heading hold) and 50 to 100 is rate. You will understand this if you look at it just like the gyro does. That radio sends a pulse from 1ms to 2ms to each of the connectors on the receiver. From 1ms to 1.5ms is one mode, say rate, and 1.5ms to 2ms is the head hold. The further it is from 1.5ms the higher the gain. Some radios allow the end points (atv's) you set to effect the setting you made in the gyro menu. So, if you have the gyro menu set at 100% but the end point for channel 5 is at 100% (with a range up to 150%) then instead of sending a 2.0ms pulse to the gyro for maximum gain you are only sending a 1.83ms signal which is about 65% of the actual gain in the gyro.

Having said that I should tell you not to worry about the details. Just set the end points to 100% and the gyro gain at 100% too. If the tail wags lower the gain from there. If you have to go below 85% then move the ball on the servo arm in one hole toward the center and try again.

Some gyros such as the popular Futaba GY401 have a delay setting. That is used to compensate for slower servos. To set it do a quick pirouette and when you stop note if the tail bounces or stops still. If it bouces increase the delay to stop it. For a fast servo leave the delay setting at 0. A faster tail servo is the best idea over all. The slower ones that come stock on some helis will never hold a tail rock steady.

On the subject of sub trims. Those are used to set the servo arms at 90deg to the links when the TX trims are set at zero. They are not used to control flight drift, that is the TX trims' job. You need to have the sub trim as close to zero as possible by setting the servo arms as close to 90deg as you can mechanically, with only the last few deg set by the sub trims if necessary. stay below 10% sub trim if possible. To much sub trim can cause a servo to overdrive at 100% stick and strip the gears. As close to a perfect mechanical set up is the best idea and will save you a lot of hair pulling. It can be time consuming at first, but more than worth it. After doing it a few times you will get good at it and it will seem easier.

I know it sounds tedious, but going back to the beginning and rechecking mechanical set up when troubleshooting is the only way to go. Those settings will change on you for no apparent reason (other than the stresses on a heli when flown) and will cause everything else to be useless.

Ran around the net some today and I am finding that the stock gyro/servo combo on the B400 is going to drift no matter how good you set it up because the stock servo will not center well and is a bit too slow. You can learn to correct the tail while in your hover if you want. This will hone that part of your skills. Or, even better, you can get a better digital tail servo. The JR and Futaba digitals are very good. Be sure to set up mechanicly in rate mode again to be sure all that is correct with the new servo so the heli will hover with the least tail movement possible. Then throw it into HH and adjust the gain up till the tail wags then back off the gain a couple % till the wagging stops.

There are others stating that they have had issues with the DX6i TX too. They have had to send them in for repairs. Seems that two to three years and they can go a little whacky on you.

Gotta end this book here. My oldie eyes are starting to see two screens. Better have another MGD to clear them. I hope I have been of help.

Later me friends.

TakeshiSkunk

Thanks for taking the time to type that all up, very informative. I finally understand the difference between gyro modes :P

I really hope I can get this Tx sorted without having to send it back in...it just seems weird I'd have no problems with it at all until right when I start setting up a new model.

dooleyje

Thanks Jay.. I had it typed up last night and lost it all after i hit OK. I really love it that you gals and guys have stepped up to give directions. Thank you very much. As I say pass the info on.

Had a very busy day today at the hobby shop. I repaired 4 helis and 2 airplanes..This evening we hosted an indoor fun-fly a 12 hour day for me. I am off tomorrow and on for 4 days. We are having a test and tune weekend for all the folks for cars, helis, airplanes, and a nitro how to also. I did fly my Gaui 200 tonight but only one battery. I plan on flying the EVO tomorrow if the rain holds off. My trex's need a run up and I will take my CopterX. Batteries.... Hyperion is the lastest thing around here. With 35 and 45c They are a hot item. Charge them at 2c 3c 4c?????
Me I will be safe at my usual 1c. LOL

GYRO SANDWICH YUMMMMMMMM.

Thank you Donica... I thought the ORANGE fuel line looks pretty good.. You hear that MATTY?. You can also get it in blue, yellow, purple, and red. Iused some ORANGE (MATTY) LOL left over from my other EVO

Hey Mike thanks for popping in and stay a while.

I wrote up a big page on gyros and set ups and lost it all. I shouls have done it in Word and pasted it here.. Jays DA Man..

Skunk I agree that sometime you have to do a new model. I think that when you fly other aircraft it is very easy to change some programming. I have done it. Lucky the aircraft will only bind if correct model is selected. Mike said it right. If we had the transmitter in our hand we could go right to the offending program and fix it.

Matty in normal mode -3.5 is perfect with a plus 5 in the center and 11-12 up top. I would however find 0 pitch first with the stick centered. That way the swash will be centerd on the chaft and give you a -11_____to +11 15 up top shows me that your center is off. I know that 3D would not be a choice with a heli that you have a hard time getting parts for but the set up is important... Rule number one with cyclic, pitch, throttle (nitros) servos gyro and so forth. Find the center. That way you will not have differential controls.

Later folks

Jim