Hey Jim, sounds like lots of fun sailing, tipping over!
The Trex450SE V2 manual(off their web page) says HT1003, someone said their package said HT1003T on it. There was a thread complaining about bad belts, being rubber belts instead of more shiny and plastic looking out of the package. It was also said that you could rub it with your finger and the rubber were start to break apart in your hand. That looked like what happened to Flyerbug's belt. He was using the same tension that I've used on my Trex 450X or CopterX, but his belt deteriorated after about 5-10 flights. It's probably a combination of poor belt quality and the aggresive metal pinions. Maybe another cause is the rudder speed? Maybe when he comes out of a spin, it puts so much torque on the belt that it rips the teeth apart. Since they've reduced the gear ratio, the belt probably has to apply more torque to make up for the speed loss. He has his piro rate really high up there, and stops the tail on a dime coming out of piros. Then again, you do that with your heli too right Jim? And you've got ur belt really loose, so it's more prone to slipping. Just trying to brain storm a bunch of explanations up, in hoping to find the right one.
HT1003 has 397T * 2.6mm
What's the other belt? There's a stretch kit belt and a V2 belt? So 3 different belts?
Another topic of discussion, what blade length? and what's the difference?
315's or 325's? Do the 315's become more agile but have less climbout rates than the 325's?
Flyerbug and I traded blades, and he uses 325s and I use 315s.
Did I also say that I'm VERY happy with the truebloodengineering.com V2 dampers? They're way better than the o-rings, I'm very pleased with them! Makes the feathering shaft nice and firm. But my main blade grips are loose, so are flyerbug's but not as bad as mine. Jim, are your main blade grips loose on the feathering shaft? Maybe I need bigger washers on the ends.
Donica/Jay how's it going?
Happy flyin all.