rcpilot1982

Ok now gyro direction.I powerd up my copter x450 and standing at the back of the heli on the left side of the tail with the rudder blades at the other end.If i would push the tail away from me,the pitch slider would move towards me.I read its supposed to be the oposit.So i changed the direction on the gyro from normal to reverse and now the pitch slider moves away from me when i move the tail away from me.Correct?.....now on the radio when i say give a right rudder command,witch way should the pitch slider move? and if its not right then do i go into the reverse menue and reverse the rudder

rcpilot1982

ok update.I installed the Esky Ek2-0508 servo on the tail of my copter x 250 se.For the most part the servo did good while staying on for a while as i adjusted it with the gyro in digital mode.The servo got warm just touching hot.After a while though the servo started to display the sound of a free running motor and the servo horn would go limp.As i would move the tail of the heli,all of a sudden the servo would grab again.Basically its as if the idle gear on the servo would slip and cause the servo motor to just run.Untill i would move the heli in witch the motor running sound would stop and the gears would work again in the servo.I also noticed that the servo barely had any tourq even as the gears grabbed since putting my finger in front of the servo horn would cause the horn and or servo gear set to stop and slip and the motor to run free.As soon as i switch the gyro to analog mode.This all stopped and the servo tourq increased and my finger could not stop the servo horn movement,and the motor stopped spinning free.Any help

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

.12 sec  8 gram servo is this the best you could afford? it says digital but i dont know if your going to have good results with that thing. i would look into a good 9 to 12 gram servo.  for 14 dollars more you could get this
http://www.shopwiki.com/l/Raiden-DMA...ood-Tail-Servo).

google it  and shop around remember you dont want to skimp on the electronics !

and btw alot of ppl are using 12 g servos not 9 g or less  there has to be a reason for that.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Here are a couple more choices or ideas for you.

[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/61_100_2163_2165/products_id/183348/n/Savox-SH-0262MG-Digital-Metal-Gear-High-Speed-Micro-Servo]Savox-SH-0262MG-Digital-Metal-Gear-High-Speed-Micro-Servo[/link]

[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/61_100_2163_2165/products_id/28397/n/Hitec-HSG-5084-Digital-Tail-Servo-for-Universal-Signal]Hitec-HSG-5084-Digital-Tail-Servo-for-Universal-Signal[/link]

[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/61_100_2163_2165/products_id/31842/n/JR-DS290G-Digital-Ultra-Speed-Sub-Micro-Gyro-Tail-Servo]JR-DS290G-Digital-Ultra-Speed-Sub-Micro-Gyro-Tail-Servo[/link]

[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/61_100_2163_2165/products_id/190912/n/Spektrum-H3020-Digital-Hi-Speed-Metal-Gear-Sub-Micro-Heli-Servo]Spektrum-H3020-Digital-Hi-Speed-Metal-Gear-Sub-Micro-Heli-Servo[/link]

+1 on what Mad said ...seems to me I read that some where before (post 2 maybe)

Your first crash will probably cost more than any of the servo's listed above, would be a shame if the servo was the cause of the crash.

rcpilot1982

Ok well i was reading that alot of guys,were actually using the full size Futaba 9257 on there 250 tail.However i just dont see how it will fit the little tail servo mount on the 250.I am going to buy a new clone 9257 servo for my 450 since the Fusonic 9257 i had in there just stopped working.I heard the Gotek 9257 clone is good? also i actually had a maiden hover on the 250 using a stock copter x 9g analog servo,and the tail held.This was my first ever hover on a ccpm heli.Is it normal to have to balance the heli just to make it sit up streight in the air while hovering? i watch videos where the person takes his hand off the cyclic stick,and the heli just floats like my fixed pitch bravo sx.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

you could try the align 420 but i have one on mine doesnt hold well but i think gain setting is key for that particular servo , havent been messin with it much lately. 36g is way overkill but you can fit it on i suppose. the guy takes his hands off the cyclics is very acheivable in no wind situations and with perfect mechanical setup. i strongly suggest you do not try this though especially on that wee 250 unless you  are proficiant in fwd flight as it will get away from you very quickly. the video you seen may have also had a fly mentor or something on it that let him do hands off. i can say i have my blade 400 setup great and can go hands off for about 4 to 5 seconds until it just starts to stray but any wind will set it on a course. like i said before if i were you i would get the 250 setup and tested and park it on the mantle and use the 450 to train on, theres a few reasons why but the biggest thing is while they both might take the same inputs to fly em the 250 will react way differant than the 450, the 450 will be somewhat more stable or should be. but really you should concentrate on just one for now until you can hover (yes even nose in) and fwd flight then you go onto another(esp a smaller bird). oh and dont go grab the 250 if you just wrecked your 450 , take the time out  and get your bearings about you fix the 450 and go back out with it. the only thing i fly atm is my mcpx so  all the rest just sit for now.

rcpilot1982

Also i found that on of the ball bearings was missing from one of the thrust bearings while i took the head appart.Is this ok or should i replace the whole bearing

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

whole bearing why chance it

rcpilot1982

Well no not the whole bearing.You know how when you take out the screws that hold the blade grips on the head? there will be some washers and behind them there is the thrust bearing and there are those little steel balls going around it?? one is missing from the spot in witch it belongs....change the whole thrust bearing?? i bought some that go to a trex 450 pro/sport hopefully they will fit the copter x 450 pro v3.I heard that this v3 version is not 100% compatible with the trex 450 pro?? Also i see you have served? in 2001 i joined the army infantry, and was scouted by the rangers.Who invited me for a try out.After making it through Ranger school then RIP.I was invited into the 3rd Ranger battalion.I completed 752 special opps missions.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

what im trying to say is why even take the 1 in a million chance that the thrust bearing is missing 1 ball , i knew what you were talking about. all im trying to say is murphys law (for me anyways) whatever can happen will and theres no sense in chancing anything in this hobby why  spend 10 - 50 or more on a crash because that 1 small ball is missing, i know its just a small ball but you never know ! god knows electronic failures dumb thumb mistakes and that split second brain freeze attributes enough to laying cash out for new parts let alone 1 small ball bearing. you should be good with the bearings though i do believe the head is still a v2 ofcourse since i sold my exi i dont keep track of the 450 anymore unless my brother needs the advice.  yeah i was a trucker for 8 years active tending after the rangers in italy was bad enough being their fwd support company sucked to much field time for me 8)

rcpilot1982

You were a ranger too.What batt

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

no i wasnt a ranger i was a truck driver , in vicenza italy theres a airborne ranger batt and they made a fwd support co for them, we got a whole platoon of infantry from berlin brigade that still had time to serve in european theatre so they turned most of em into truckers lol. but we still had to  railhead to germany 4 times a year for war games just because the rangers had to do it, where they went we went.

rcpilot1982

ok ive got ya.Hooah anyway..lol..ok now on my other post about the pinion gear sitting too low,and in the center of the main gear? well the top of the pinion is in the center.What i had to do was take your suggestion of using the Dremel to make the flat spot on the motors shaft higher.By doing this i was able to raise the pinion,and get the main gear of the heli.Sit in the middle of the pinion.Now is this procedure of grinding a taller flat spot on the motor shaft legitamite? Also would you know.After i did this, i spun up the rotor head, and after i was pleased to see the head and pinion gear running 100% smooth and wabble free.I found that the white wire coming from the bec, was chewed appart by the bottom of the motor.......I believe that is the signal wire too...lol...what should i do cut them all at the damaged area and solder the wire back together.I was thinking of soldering on a male and female servo lead set and just make the bec able to be a plug in device and then i can plug in other bec cirquits

rcpilot1982

ok ive got ya.Hooah anyway..lol..ok now on my other post about the pinion gear sitting too low,and in the center of the main gear? well the top of the pinion is in the center.What i had to do was take your suggestion of using the Dremel to make the flat spot on the motors shaft higher.By doing this i was able to raise the pinion,and get the main gear of the heli.Sit in the middle of the pinion.Now is this procedure of grinding a taller flat spot on the motor shaft legitamite? Also would you know.After i did this, i spun up the rotor head, and after i was pleased to see the head and pinion gear running 100% smooth and wabble free.I found that the white wire coming from the bec, was chewed appart by the bottom of the motor.......I believe that is the signal wire too...lol...what should i do cut them all at the damaged area and solder the wire back together.I was thinking of soldering on a male and female servo lead set and just make the bec able to be a plug in device and then i can plug in other bec cirquits

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

being its a signal wire i would buy a new connector set and crimp wire to pin and reinsert pin into the holder, soldering it would probably be ok as long as you have decent soldering skills lol.i dont know where you mounted your bec but i mounted mine on the front inside the frames on bottom plate, i moved it from the outside front right like right next to the motor on lower frame.and use zip ties to hold em in place so they cannot move.

rcpilot1982

I have my bec mounted on the bottom of the helicopter so that its sitting in the open air.My speed control is mounted on the right side of the frame.Again so it sits out in the open air.On top of that they will both get super cooled by the thrust of the rotor head.My damage is in the middle of the wire so the ended up soldering the wire.So about the Dremeling the motor shaft.Is that usual procedure?

rcpilot1982

I have my bec mounted on the bottom of the helicopter so that its sitting in the open air.My speed control is mounted on the right side of the frame.Again so it sits out in the open air.On top of that they will both get super cooled by the thrust of the rotor head.My damage is in the middle of the wire so the ended up soldering the wire.So about the Dremeling the motor shaft.Is that usual procedure?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

my scorpian motor didnt even come with a flat on the shaft (i bought for my 250) i put one on it for that added peace of mind that the pinion would be locked in and not be able to slip .. and really as long as you dont dremel in to far it shouldnt be a issue on shaft strength. one other thing i found with exi (450) tail shaft dont have a flat where the grub would contact it to hold the tail blade hub assem on shaft. and i put one on it, it solved the tail problems i was having to say the least.so you may want to check the copter x  as it may not have one either (just fyi).

rcpilot1982

Yeah i just got my HK500cmt and i found that while looking at the tail pitch slider from the back of the heli.If i move the pitch slider to the left.It will go all the way over.If i move it to the right.It will not make it all the way and leaves a gap the thickness of a 450 main blade.What i found was that the outside of the pitch slider the part that stays locked to a part of the shaft with a set screw.Thiis part was sitting in towards the left of the heli.As the tail shaft is sunk into the hole on the hub.Now the thing is that i loosend the grub or set screw and slid the outer part of the PS so that the tip of the tail shaft was level with the hub.In wich i got equal travel left and right.The thing is that i could not keep it this way because there is a drilled hole on the tail shaft for the grub.Not a flat spot so thers no adjustment as the grub just sinks into that hole setting the hub at that location.Maby make it a flat spot?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

yeah is the hole all the way through? thats a major weak spot if it is ! but if they just took off some of the shaft to make a flat "same same"  as long as when you tighten the grub screw  and you were to hold the hub in 1 hand and the shaft in the other theres no way the hub can slip around the shaft.  btw when i make my flats i take it easy  trying not to heat the shaft to possibly weaken a already weak part lol. imho china could heat trwat them better but they dont so they bend easier  this is where i recommend align mains / feathers/ tail shafts and bearing all the way through the bird. just by holding the exi mains or feathers in 1 hand and exi in the other you can see the differance ! i have found the aluminum from "clones" to be very brittle  or it will strip / break before it rethreads or bends and the shafts will actually bend just by looking at them lol. the bearings well once you replaced some after 10 - 15 flights you will figure it out. atleast i had no luck with any of my exi tail shaft bearings 2 sets in maybe 3 small crashes nothing enough to bend shaft ,1 boom strike. but the rest of the bearings oddly are still going ok (havent flown it since i sold to brother). or maybe it was a bad lot of tail shaft bearings??.  the only other complaint is the bolt quality  they strip or break 7 out of 10 times!

rcpilot1982

There is just an semi deep indent su the set screw could sink into it.So should i make it a longer flat spot so that i can set the tip of the tail shaft sits flush with the hub? so that the slider can go all the way over to the right.As of now it stops leaving a gap about half the thickness of a pencil

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

yep sounds right

rcpilot1982

Ok now a big question that ive had.Is what am i trying to prevent to make for a succesfull flight? .The helicopter from tipping over or drifting 100 per hour in every direction? ...lol....a big thing for me when im learning something.Is i like to have an idea of what to expect.The thing with the ccpm helicopter is.With my fixed pitch i expect to counter act drifts and supply throttle.With the ccpm the heli seems to drift and seems to want to flip over.As if were an elephant standing on a needle.Since i have not yet really gained control over a ccpm.I dont know what im trying to counter act.I bet alot of new commers have this as a main concearn.I used a swash leveler on the swash and the rotor head is smooth but i am not able to control it.I hear alot that these ccpm helis can hover really stable bit its hard to imagine.I did try the 250 since im waiting for a tail servo for my 450 and was anxious to be able to fly one for the first time in 6 years of trying.Just like the eflight blade cp.It felt like it was trying to tip over in the air and drift but any correction is to much

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

well  if everything is setup correct then the heli will want to take off at pretty much a north west direction. you can compensate by putting a small amount of cyclic in so it will lift straight up. the more you do it the more you will know how much to do. and the takeoffs and landings get easier. alot of new guys i think are intimidated  when the heli starts to lift off but imho this is the most critical in taking off . i have done it and i see my brother doing it  he tries to counteract  stuff and then the heli tips over and  it gets new parts. i watch him and tell him  go  get it off the ground ! that rotar wash is a real sob !   just remember small inputs and dont let it get away from you. flying a sim definately help it does get boring but it will train you quicker than if you wreck and rebuild and not even getting in the air.

personally when i see mine getting light on the skids i just jump on the throttle and go !

ATVAlliance

Yeah...trying to lift off "easy" can easily result in the chicken dance.

Once you can tell you have rudder control....I just pump it quick into the air to avoid it getting hung and flipping over on its side.