rcpilot1982

I just finished building my copter x 250se.After setting the pitch and the initial setup.I found that the cx5 tail servo melted.Now the gyro i am using is an copter x GY750 and i set the DS switch off since i figured this was not a digital servo.The speed control is an Copter x 18 amp and its bec is putting out the typical 5v.Now i did use the Battery hobby 11.1v 2200 battery from my 450 helis since im waiting on the 11.1v 800ma batterys to arrive.I did not think this was the issue since it is an 11.1v battery??? now i orderd a Corona 929MG servo witch is an analog servo,i think? and two Esky 7.5 gram digital servos as a replacement.Are these good? i also have some Tower pro MG90 servos and some copter x 9g servos......any recomendations

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

CX-5G Servo Specification:
Supply voltage: 4.8/6.0V
Speed: 0.12sec/60 degree(no load running)
Torque: 0.85kg.cm
Operating current: 100m
Static current: 1mA
Dead band drain: 10uses
Connector wire length: 150mm
Dimensions: 21.4*11.5*20.1mm
Weight: 5g(less connector)

Is this the tail servo you have?
If it is, in my opinion (and that's all it is) the servo is way to slow for good tail response. You should have something under .10 speed, usually around .07 ~ .08 range for a tail servo and .11~ .14 range for cyclic. Try not to scrimp to much on servos. I did on my 500 and it doesn't hold a trim very well. I can set it, hover a bit and the next thing you know it's out of trim again.

For $25 you could get [link=http://grandrc.com/Electronics-Servos-Align/c17_16_15/p51734/DS425M-Digital-Servo-HSD42501/product_info.html]align DSM425[/link] tail servo (not promoting Align btw) or something similar.

imo

ATVAlliance

You over drove the servo most likely.

I too own a CX250SE and bought the "plug -n- play" edition.  I thought that everything would be set as WoW Hobbies claim that they fly every heli they sell.  I doubt that as my 250 out of the box was un-flyable and I almost burned up the rudder servo too.

Its easy to drive a rudder servo too far...and when you do the strain on them will burn them out in short order.

I might have to try one of those Align ones that Goggles mentioned.  I didnt realize there was one out there that cheap as I have th HiTec MG5084 on my 450 and was going to get one for the 250 as well.  But for 25 bucks I think I will try one of the Align ones.

rcpilot1982

Well out of panick i orderd an Esky Ek2-0508 8g digital servo for the tail.Is this any good? and yes the copter x cx5 came with the (proffessional electronic pack for the 250.....lol

ATVAlliance

Dont know if it is or not...Ive not used one before.

I do know that the HiTec 5084MG is a good rudder servo. But I think its around the 50-60 dollar price range. I have one on my 450 and its awesome! Someone mentioned above an Align rudder servo in the 20something dollar price range. I think I would try one of those and see as you can almost buy 3 of them for the price of 1 of the 5084's. May not be as good though. Time would tell?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

noooooo stay away from the align ds420 if thats the one your talking about i have tht and a gp750 on my 250 and it doesnt hold the tail cant get the wag out at all , look for a differant servo, also i dont know if you guys have ever herd of the chinese weight mod for the tail grips but check it out its proven to take the heavy loads off your tail servo. i personally use longer bolts and ball ends on my blade 400, but sooner or later i will end up drilling and tapping mine for a cleaner look.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

Hmmm, interesting. Time to put a post on Runryder and see what they have to say about them. Thanks for the heads up.

rcpilot1982

By the way.Now the outer part of the tail slide assembly,how it lock on the outer end of the tail shaft.Some of my tail shaft is sticking out as in the outer part of the tail slide assembly is mounted a bit inside towards the back part of the tail assembly when looking at the rudder blades from where the tail blade bolts face you? how do i properly set this up?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

i dont understand your question? do you mean the main tail shaft sticks out past the tail grip hub ? if so there is a small grub screw you will want to loosen up , sometimes you can turn the grips all the way one side or the other to open up the area to access the grub screw (sometimes you have to remove the screw that attaches you little plastic linkage to the grip itself) . loosen the grub you may have to put heat to shaft with solder iron as they generally locktite this area (there again if you properly went through the bird and made sure loctite is on every metal screw to metal part then it wouldnt have had loctite and you would have put loctite on it) heat the shaft take a dry rag or cloth so you dont burn yourself and loosen by turning or pulling hub off shaft . if you get it hot enough the belt should hold it enough so you can simply turn the hub and hold the main gear assembly to break it free. most of the time the shaft should go flush with the grip hub but i have found on some 450 hubs (exi) i couldnt do this as the tail slider would travel to far so the grip links would actually get straight and create a binding action when trying to move back to the other side. some of the shafts have a flat in them so you may need to get the dremel out and extend the flat (where the grub tightens  down so the hub and grips cant slip around during flight. if it doesnt have one i make one as i have had 1 slip on me and made me scratch my head until i figured out what was happening.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

yeah goggles  chinese weight mod theres videos proving how much less the tail servo needs to work with this mod(less power needed and less physical force).  the guy doing the testing was trying to figure out exactly how much weight it would take for all the heli sizes before it wasnt beneficial to the servo any more so he could make the weights and put money in his pocket. i say thanks man for finding this and trying to improve but why would i pay him when i can figure out a way to put my own weights on, lol

ATVAlliance

The SE version already has the modded tail grips. So you dont need to do the "chinese weight mod" if you have a SE.

rcpilot1982

yes the tail shaft is sticking out past the outer hub.Yet my arms do strieghten and lock that way on a couple of my choppers.I figured travel adjust or epa would stop this? also how about an MG90" or an Esky EK2-0508 digital servo on the tail

ATVAlliance

You should plug your servo directly into your reciever first and get it centered and adjusted via the servo horn.  Only use EPA as a last resort.  Try your best to get it all done mechanically as much you can.

Once you have done that...plug in your gyro and use the EPA adjustment on the GYRO to keep it from over driving the travel.  Adjust the tail center by moving the servo along the boom and NOT with subtrim.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

yes definately a mechanically  setup is better so if the electronics happen to glitch  and travel past that endpoint set in then disaster strikes, so its just best to know that mechanical limit is set especially on the tail, i know i have seen the tail go out of control 2 times and theres nothing you can do but try and get it down with as little damage as possible. i think the first time happened when the stock blade 400 front gear broke and i was still new to the hover stage and i did leave a wet spot in the front of my jeans lol.

rcpilot1982

Yes you guys taught me about centering the rudder slider with the gyro bypassed and i have no trouble centering the pitch slider.With the rudder servo plugged right into the receiver.I also know to slide the entire servo and its mount to a certain position on the tail boom to get the pitch slider in the center of the shaft.What im saying is that when looking at the the rudder blades from the front of there face.The center hub that the tail blade grips mount too?? is mounted so that the tail shaft sticks out a bit towards you.....should the tip of the tail shaft be flush with the outside of the center hub or like it is?

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

as long as you dont get binding when the slider moves twords the boom or should i say when the slider runs all the way to the boom when it comes back twords the blades if you make it flush check it by hand to ensure the plastic links dont straighten out to far and bind it up.

rcpilot1982

ok and with the slider in the middle of the tail shaft.Shold the blade grip screws be equal with each other at zerp pitch.Are the grip screws supposed to face me together level as in should the blades be streight together.Like a well tracked set of main blades.....sorry for my explenations

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

the easiest way i have found to get center  is make sure the servo is on (plugged directly into rx) and you have 2 servo rod link guides. choose either one, say we choose the back guide . ok we loosen the servo mounts and slide the servo twords the front of the heli so it will make the tail pitch move all the way in twords boom place a mark with like a sharpie to the left of the guide directly on the tail linkage rod, then move the servo and mount all the way the other way until it stops and place another mark this time to the right of the  same guide, then you can eyeball it or even measure and slide the servo back until its perfectly in the center (this also gives you permanent marks so you can do a quick visual if ever needed). carefully but evenly tighten the servo mounts back down as i have seen these move off just a tad before and have to loosen it back up. this imho is far easier than trying to eyeball the tail slider on the shaft and i could never get my verniers between the blade grips and pitch slider.

rcpilot1982

Ok another thing.I just got my two GE power 11.1volt 800mah lipo batteries for my 250 heli and these batteries came with this little red plug on the end like the one on the esky honey bee cp2 or blade cp.Now i wanted to solder on a deans plug but i have a charge whip that came with my charger that goes from this red plug to a deans plug.Should i make a couple adapters or actually solder on a full size deans plug right on the battery

ATVAlliance

Whatever works best for you. IF you decide to solder a new plug on the battery...be careful not to short the two leads together...if you do, you will see a small bolt of lightning flash at the very least...or ruin your battery. lol

Ive used "gender changers" Ive made as well as solder new ends on. I never was a deans connector fan. I prefer EC3. Not that deans are bad. I just think soldering EC3's are easier and make just as good a connection.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

when it comes to the charger a adapter will work but when your talking about on the bird definatley us only one connector. the reason i say this is because the amps running between the esc  and batt are important and if you install a adapter to me thats just creating another bottle neck there so if you have deans on the esc definately use deans on battery , your just asking for a possible problem doing it any other way. this is just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions lol.

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

man i just found my new 2nd fav heli. ever heard of gazaur? i bought 2 used helis (1 posiden and 1 mars both 480 size but honestly they are only 1 inch longer than my blade 400)and a ton of parts with them at a swap meet back in feb. i bought 2 whole birds with electronics and like i said a ton of spare parts for 400 dollars. i got around to going through em making sure everything was good. let me tell ya these things rock. the head is made so the flybar cannot deviate while transitioning. it is more stable than the exi 450 and or blade 400.

rcpilot1982

Thats cool man,im glad to hear about those ships.I really want one of these Eflight blade 450"s.Yes that was what i was thinking about the adapter.These red JST connectors if thats what they are.Are so small that they seem to come with the wires allready solderd in....small wires.The wires coming from my speed control are fatter and would be no way to solder them into these connectors.If i use an adapter then there would be the fat wires coming from the SC,then the wire guage would step down to that skinny wire and cause flow reduction.Thats what i thought as well as another plug joint to wiggle loose and break connection.So cut the red plug off and solder the deans plug? also the SC came with no battery plug attached so i solderd a deans connector on.i Would not have got one of those little red plugs on the sc wires anyway unless i solderd the plug with its factory solderd wire leads on to the spee control battery wires that would have been a step down.Also i just recieved a pack of 4 250 flybars from hongkong and some have a slight bend in them yet they roll on the table so are they no good ? how perfectly streight does a fb have to be

madmorgan

My Feedback: (2)

i have wrecked a few times and put small bends in my fb's and straightened em back via eyeball and they worked fine. yes i would cut the reds off and use deans , try to make evrything deans  or everything the same so you dont need 50 differant adapters going on your charger lol .

rcpilot1982

Yeah man,i solderd the deans connectors on both batteries.My new blade balancer just arrived....(the triangle shaped carbon fiber frame balancer from Ebay) and i am balancing blades as i type this.The balancer works great,much better than bolting blades together and using a couple glasses.I did not know that you have to balance carbon fiber blades